Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I am swapping a S13 SR20DE engine into a 1600 roadster.The stock thermostat housing hose exit interfers with the alternator on the S13 SR20DE engine when using the justy subaru alternator set up. Can anyone suggest a replacement thermostat housing to correct the problem? A part number? Model year etc...
Thanks
Dennis

Because of the wide variety of different radiators and different neck locations, we always custom build the water neck to go up and over the alternator bracket and belt.



For the water neck pieces, we cut off the original thermostat housing, and then use aluminum mandrel bends to get the angle correct-- and then you just weld it together.

Michael

Great info! Some or most of the photos are not showing up. I'm new to this and really could use all the photos and info. Putting a SR20DE into a 68 1600.

I will go thru the thread this weekend and see if I can get the photos fixed--

Michael

Found a few more frame shots that might be of interest for this thread:









Michael

For those considering this swap and would like to use our SR20 Conversion Parts, I would highly recommend renting our JIG to place the motor mounts in the correct location on your frame.

This is "Jiggy":



What Jiggy does is hang two motor mount base plates in space allowing you to trim the motor mount base plates that come with our kit to match your frame. Due to the many minor variations that we have seen in the frames over the years, we have found this to be the best method to get the best fit for individual frames.

After looking at dozens of frames, we have found that the spacing for the body mounts in the engine compartment have been pretty universal and we designed two 9/16" pins that fit into these holes (the roadster holes are about a 1/32 undersized, so we drill them out with a 9/16" drill bit to make a nice secure fit!):



When both holes are drilled out, the pins slide into the holes, and a simple C clamp is used to keep the jig sitting secure and square:



Neither motor mount base plate on the JIG actually touches the frame at this point:





The motor mount base plates that I send out with my kits need to be trimmed to match the profile of the frame (you can see about 1/4"-3/8" of excess material that will need to be trimmed:



After trimming back the overlapping top piece, we actually get to the frame sidewall. The trimmed motor mount base plate is bolted to the JIG using the provided 8mm bolts:



The motor mount base plate is welded in two passes, first a root pass to get things seated to the vertical portion of the frame rail, then a wider top pass to tie the gap together (be careful not to get your weld into the chassis VIN number-- a 1500 VIN is longer so it gets closer to the edge of the frame rail):



The passenger side is a little different. Where the motor mount plate is located the frame actually curves away and has a step in it, so the cut on this is a little more difficult to figure out. I like to make a pattern on card stock so I can figure out the cuts on the base plate:



Then it is just a matter of trimming and lining up the holes to make sure that there is a good fit on the passenger side frame rail:



Trim, adjust, weld, grind... you know the drill!

That takes care of the motor mount base plates, then it is just a matter of building some new side gussets to tie them into the frame:



If you are considering a SR20 swap into your roadster, Jiggy makes things much easier as it takes all the guess work out of the project, and will easily save you 8-10 hours of setup time. Contact me directly for rental information! Jiggy has been sent all around the country (even Alaska and Canada!) and feedback has been very positive!

Normally Aspirated Exhaust for SR20DE Engines

If you are going with a non-turbo engine, then the stock, SR20DE RWD exhaust manifold will not work with this conversion as it hits the steering shaft.

Our solution to this issue is to use the Front Wheel Drive (FWD) Nissan SR20DE exhaust manifold found on Infiniti G20s, Sentra SE-Rs, or NX-2000s. This cast manifold clears the steering shaft as well as the motor mounts and is an excellent OEM solution to this issue.

On our conversions, we weld up the stock EGR port on the manifold (I'll add a photo) before bolting it to the engine-- here is what it looks like installed in the engine compartment:



You can then add the OEM heat shield to make it all go away:





On the exhaust end, a down pipe needs to be constructed. Since the FWD manifold has a unique output flange, we have designed these laser cut flanges that bolt right up to the OEM manifold, using the Nissan sealing rings: Part number 20691-57E01



It is then easy to build a simple downpipe to make the transition to the X-frame:









We usually have FWD exhaust manifolds already modified and in stock with the laser cut exhaust flange if you need one-- just drop us a note!

Michael

I have an ultra-close ratio tranny from a 2000 race car that I'd like to use in an engine swap for a SOLO 2 car. I know this tranny will fit in the 1500, 1600, 2000, 510, 240Z and who knows what else of that era. Can it be adapted to a later Nissan engine swap? This will be in a stripped down SRL-311 auto cross car that will weigh around 1400 lbs or less. Anything you sell to achieve this?

Anything can be done-- I see a lot of people converting SR20DE 6-speed transmissions into L-series engines, so I see no reason why it could not go the other way.

Here is a shot that I saw on another forum recently (S15 6-speed to L-series engine):





We do not sell anything to do this process however.

Michael

waky racer wrote:I have an ultra-close ratio tranny from a 2000 race car that I'd like to use in an engine swap for a SOLO 2 car.

This can be done BUT I think you would be better served using a close ratio transmission for the engine you are using.
That Ultra-close ratio tranny is worth a lot to racers that are restricted to Roadster Transmissions.
If you are thinking of a SR20, you can buy close ratio gear sets for the 5 speed that are also much stronger.
1st: 2.596 (3.321 OEM)
2nd: 1.765 (1.902 OEM)
3rd: 1.250 (1.308 OEM)
4th: 1.000 (1.000 OEM)
5th: 0.833 (0.759 OEM)

Thank you Michael Spreadbury again for the vacuum line info. I was looking for hours trying to find a vacuum line map and nothing for the SR20DE NA engine came up, only the turbo. Spreadbury texted me back saying "All you need is to connect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Cap everything else." It's funny how if you know something it's easy but if you don't it's brain surgery.