Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

bmccarthy67 wrote: Tue May 10, 2022 8:11 pm If you travel north on I-95 anytime and have a veh that could transport it, you are welcome to pick up my rotisserie and door brace bars (Savannah, GA). Since you're pulling the body it will allow you to spin it and do the underside. It's purpose built for Roadster pick up points (you can see on my Dec 19 resto page). It just sits in a shed out back and when done I'll store again for future Roadster folks. Anyway, available if you need it.

v/r
Buddy

Gregs672000 wrote: Thu May 19, 2022 11:05 am Hard to tell. Looks tired but not like it saw any major problems. Probably needs a full rebuild, but only measurements and more inspection will tell you if you need pistons, valves and guides. On a U20 you need to watch for the valve seats being pounded into the head (the valve will recede further and further) but I don't know if that happens with the R.

unklpat wrote: Thu May 19, 2022 4:34 pm The head looks pretty tired, you can see several recessed valves. Cyl #4 is in the best shape, look at how recessed Cyl #1 and #2 are. Only my opinion, but you can MIC how far the stems protrude from the head. Do not skimp on the head, there are better seats, guides, and valves available now. The worst thing that can happen is dropping a valve seat. Ask me how I know. Actually, the worst thing that can happen, is having to pull your motor/trans 1 year after rebuilding your trans. Pat

RustBucket wrote: Fri May 20, 2022 12:02 am The intake/exhaust side always seems to be the hard side to come out. Maybe they get cooked by the exhaust or something. Going to be fun getting those broken bolts/studs out.
Rustbucket

RustBucket wrote: Fri May 20, 2022 12:02 am The intake/exhaust side always seems to be the hard side to come out. Maybe they get cooked by the exhaust or something. Going to be fun getting those broken bolts/studs out.
Rustbucket

Gregs672000 wrote: Sun May 22, 2022 11:07 am Regarding more power... as has been demonstrated, a stroked R can produce very healthy U20 power +, but of course that comes at a cost. You already have better induction via the Webers, but an engine is a system and restrictions elsewhere will minimize their effect. An engine is an air pump... more air/fuel in and out the better. Consider spending money on some cyclinder head port work by someone who knows what they are doing, match the cam to the improved flow (keep duration reasonable, add some lift, keeping in mind that you don't want an engine that's a dog below 4000 rpm), make sure the ignition system is solid, meaning EI or 123 dizzy. The 123 has the advantage of being able to adjust your timing curve anywhere you want. Research has shown that ignition timing is very important for power, much more so than getting the air/fuel ratios perfect. I don't know if anyone has messed with their timing curves on a stockish engine on a dyno to see what improvement can be had over the stock curve, but on my motor it's life or death (high compression). Adding displacement via stroking is great too, but a much more involved and expensive effort that really needs some head etc work to produce its best power. Setting up the Webers correctly will help the car be more responsive and pleasant to drive, so a wideband is very helpful as is selecting the correct main choke sizes.