Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I had a big problem with my tranny, the bearings where damaged, I took the engine out and this week my tranny was back and reconditioned, and what sounds that great, no whining sound only the sound of the engine and the turbo.
the engine is running smoothly now, in two weeks she goes to the Dyno at Richards place.
But another problem occur, the engine is overheating in the city after some powering, so I ordered an SPAL radiator fan and hope that it is solved then.

Spal make great fans. I have mine on a shroud. I had to cut out the circle in the shroud because the fan was bigger than the stock hole. But it works great!

I mounted the SPAL fan and it works great, even the engine room is cooled by the fan.
It was necessary, the Chinese 80 watt fan was like a hair-dryer this fan is more like a vacuum cleaner.
I had some problems with my heater it wasn't working, but the problem was a hose that was situated to high, conclusion air.

I drove this year till now about 5000 miles with this engine and must say, great fun and cheap driving, fuel consumption about 1liter on 13km ave-ridge, at the high way at 130kph. The peddle goes often to the mettle but I didn't drove faster then 200 at 5500 rpm so 1500 rpm left. There are a few issues, temp getting warm during driving into the city with higher temperatures. So I will change the thermostat to a 82 degr C and the fan thermostat to a 82-87 degr C, hopefully this issue will be gone then.
Normally no wheel spin only during cornering in the second gear she starts to drift and on wet streets you must drive carefully in second and third gear on full power she breaks out.
I will try to fit 205/15/50 wheels and hopefully wheel spin on dry roads will be less then. I also need a boost control gauge to see what more is possible to go at 15psi over pressure so now and then, just for fun. At the front side I have lowered springs and on higher speed I had a wobbling feeling after changing the KYB by Gas type 4528 all the wobbling was gone and during cornering much more stable. I also changed the front brake pads for EBC pads with carbon and they do there job great now, also the hydraulic oil is changed by EBC DOT 4 high performance Glycerol basis to 300 degr C. So at this point is my brake temp. also solved.

Sounds like Fun! Just make sure you're adding in enough fuel to go along with the added boost, otherwise it can be *Poof*!

Nice job Peter. Sounds like you are getting quite a bit of seat time in the swapped 66. Have fun.

Steve

Gregs672000 wrote:Sounds like Fun! Just make sure you're adding in enough fuel to go along with the added boost, otherwise it can be *Poof*!

The fuel pump can give enough fuel and pressure(5bar).
I know already what a fuel cut is when you your head hit the steering wheel.
I have a problem with my fuel delivery, when the fuel tank is almost half empty the pump get problems to get the fuel up, I have a external Bosch pomp just behind the tank, and made a pipe to the bottom from 12mm but it stands strait up and I don't know if it will help when I lead that fuel pipe in a 90 degr angle over the bottom. Does someone have an experience with those external fuel problems?

Peter,
If you are using an external Bosch pump, you need a second low pressure pump to feed it or a gravity flow system, that is a hole in the bottom of the tank.

The Bosch pump is not designed to lift the fuel at ALL. If yoou use it to lift fuel, it will have a very short life span.....maybe as short as 6 month.

Dragrace in the Netherlands 1\8 mile this weekend at Circuit Assen.

Looking good Peter!

peter wrote:Dragrace in the Netherlands 1\8 mile this weekend at Circuit Assen.

What were your times?

Not great, the street was wet and I had in the first and second gear spinning wheels, so that said it was 10.4 sec.
But I'm pretty sure that I can handle it under 10 seconds on a dry road.

Winter work has started, engine is out of the car and tranny back to the shop, it makes again wining sounds. next Friday I get him back.
I revisit the turbo CHRA and use now a 360 degr bearing, the diff had some leakage by the oil seal, so I replace that one as well.
The engine gets new oil seals on the two cam shafts, and I lowered the tranny mounting, so the line from the tranny to the diff is more strait.
The fuel tank will be adapted as well, the fuel is now sucked up to the pump but that give problems when the tank is half full.
I also ordered a boost-controller, so now I can upgrade my power with about 30 hp on 15psi.
I ordered by E gauges also 4 new gauges from the hot rod serie and the amp gauge will be replaced for a turbo gauge.
At the end of the winter I will order a set of new wheels in the USA, and will try to place 205/50/15 under need the car, hopefully the wheelspin will be reduced.

compressor pipe is now longer and the air inlet gets more space and cooler air.

old 270 degr bearing, replaced by a 360 degr bearing

cleaned and as new.

and also cleaned.

Sounds like fun! Just make sure your fuel delivery system can provide the necessary fuel for higher boost pressures. As I am sure you know, people often turn up the boost without addressing computer programming, fuel pressure, injector capacities etc which results in detonation and explosion. I am absolutely NO expert on these things, just know it from talking to people who are!

You know my fuel pump has enough capacity (Bosch pump 051 5 bar) And the Horsham stage 1 software is already addressed for the higher pressure, but I didn't use it til now, because there wasn't a boost controller. This chip is factory completely programmed for 1 bar over-pressure.
My biggest problem was the delivery from the tank to the pump, but now I will try to work with a connector at the underside, and the pump direct behind the tank. so that the pump has less problems with sucking the fuel up.