The Resource For All Things Datsun Roadster S211/SPL212/310/311 Datsun Sports Roadster 1959-April 1970 circa 40,000 produced
https://www.311s.org/phpBB3/
what does / can it do ? what does "cause problems" mean to u ? haha I mean what's it mean / do ?pebbles wrote: Wed Apr 04, 2018 1:59 pmRing terminal to starter, flat washer, lock washer, bolt.oppositeLock wrote: Tue Apr 03, 2018 11:38 am (Referencing this thread: http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=21150)
On the starter end of the frame-to-starter ground wire, should that just be a ring terminal between the starter mounting bolt (and its lockwasher) and the transmission casing? Just seems like you'd need rather large ring/spade terminal in order to avoid a gap under the bolt head.
I wouldnt put the terminal against the lock washer, they are soft. The locking feature will engage and cause problems when turning the bolt.
I'd suggest an update to the tech wiki might be in order if method 1 is not correct. The two listed appear to be for different years of carb. I'll assume yours are most likely the first ones 13/32"? Surprised there is not a +/- tolerance on these measurements and curious as to the difference in gap between your method one and method 2.guyatou wrote: Sat Apr 14, 2018 3:55 pm I’m resetting my U20 carb float level. I have the adjustments printed off from the tech wiki, but I want to double check measurements. The shop manuals I have only list numbers for the free floating floats, not hinged like I have.
CF30AFD5-D0BC-4FF7-BFE9-0725B72429A5.jpeg
First, when I invert the float lid 1) should I hold the float up and slowly lower until it just barely contacts the seat and then take the measurement (like it says in these instructions) or 2) measure from the float’s natural resting place on the seat?
Second, what is the actual correct measurement using the proper method above (I assume #1)? The sheet has 2 listed. 13/32†or 9/16†Again, the books I have don’t include this detail and it’s madening!
msampsel wrote: Sun Apr 15, 2018 11:15 amI noticed the float levels in the wiki are for Carbs from a 240Z not the roadster float level. Not sure what yours are ...guyatou wrote: Sat Apr 14, 2018 3:55 pm I’m resetting my U20 carb float level. I have the adjustments printed off from the tech wiki, but I want to double check measurements. The shop manuals I have only list numbers for the free floating floats, not hinged like I have.
CF30AFD5-D0BC-4FF7-BFE9-0725B72429A5.jpeg
First, when I invert the float lid 1) should I hold the float up and slowly lower until it just barely contacts the seat and then take the measurement (like it says in these instructions) or 2) measure from the float’s natural resting place on the seat?
Second, what is the actual correct measurement using the proper method above (I assume #1)? The sheet has 2 listed. 13/32†or 9/16†Again, the books I have don’t include this detail and it’s madening!
Mine (R16) are 0.55" and looks like yours are too (based on just when the needle closes)
Here is another source which "almost" defends method one, where it says "resting" but not "compressing" the needle valve ... hummm
Later on in the link it says "just contacts" so it agrees with your method 1. No wonder the newer cars are going to direct injection! LOL
Good luck!
http://xjrider.com/viewtopic.php?t=746
I thought you had mikuni carbs on that beast, right? Totally different set up, and it is somewhat important to how the carbs function. Raising or lowering the float level in a side draft like the Mikuni changes when the mains kick in. Don't try to use any specs for any other carb than your particular version. I may be able to scare up my old mikuni manual, but may have given it away to the person who bought mine many years ago. Regardless, someone here (Dave P?) Will have the proper spec and method. Why do you think you need to adjust it in the first place? They typically don't change much if at all, unless the valve was changed out. There also is a tool that I used to use to check, it was like a glass straw with marks on it, used just like putting a straw into water with your finger over the end, then releasing to get the fluid to travel up the straw, the covering it again so you could pull it out and read the level. It would measure by putting it in where the jet/emulsion tube sits (removed) to a set place on the tool (fixed metal ring) so you measured depth consistently. You could probably make something out of clear fuel resistant plastic or glass with some marks? This way you're setting the carbs the same and have a reference point. One of the upgrades done to later carb versions was an external float adjustment. You also may not know what is "best" until you run it. However, it is a very minor change that may only show up under racing conditions where every 10th is important and the carbs have not responded to slight Jetting changes and is over or under fueling in transition from pilot to mains, assuming they are not grossly wrong! That was a problem I had at one point with the Dellortos, but they offer many different emulsion tubes that change when the mains engage and how and where in the progression... gets dizzying, but the documentation was good and I could guess at what might be the best (again, why an wideband O2 sensor is so helpful... I could SEE what the carb was doing in transition and could target where it was doing what, make changes, then see what the result was in real time... priceless. Try doing that seat of the pants or reading plugs... not!).guyatou wrote: Sat Apr 14, 2018 3:55 pm I’m resetting my U20 carb float level. I have the adjustments printed off from the tech wiki, but I want to double check measurements. The shop manuals I have only list numbers for the free floating floats, not hinged like I have.
CF30AFD5-D0BC-4FF7-BFE9-0725B72429A5.jpeg
First, when I invert the float lid 1) should I hold the float up and slowly lower until it just barely contacts the seat and then take the measurement (like it says in these instructions) or 2) measure from the float’s natural resting place on the seat?
Second, what is the actual correct measurement using the proper method above (I assume #1)? The sheet has 2 listed. 13/32†or 9/16†Again, the books I have don’t include this detail and it’s madening!
Got it .... thing is I only used a little combo wrench. Gotta be gentle I guessboxcar wrote: Sun Apr 15, 2018 8:39 am Ralph : Pull the stud , then re install using red lock tight . Once dry, don't use a 3/8 drive ratchet again.
Yeah i must be using too large of a screw driver. I might have to use my little flat head and see if that works. It just kind of kept bulging when i would try to poke it thru and just did not want to go in the hole.mraitch wrote: Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:37 pm I trimmed mine a little bit and pushed them thru using small sdcrewdriver
