Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Those are the numbers I just installed on my 68.
Dan

mraitch wrote: ↑Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:09 pm good point nissanman - tjp can you actually see the head of the fastener??

yes, I can see it. It is a flat blade. I have enough small screwdrivers. I think I'll just heat one up and bend it.

Maybe this has been asked but I couldn’t find anything but maybe I didn’t look hard enough....

I am going to need a new clutch and brakes for my 67.5 1600. Anyone have any suggestions on what to buy? My 1600 is becoming a “daily driver” so no need for racing parts. Just something reliable. Thanks!

Suggest you peruse our vendors sites. You wont go wrong with their products.
Dan

Mackn367 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 07, 2018 8:53 pm Maybe this has been asked but I couldn’t find anything but maybe I didn’t look hard enough....

I am going to need a new clutch and brakes for my 67.5 1600. Anyone have any suggestions on what to buy? My 1600 is becoming a “daily driver” so no need for racing parts. Just something reliable. Thanks!

Clutch
viewtopic.php?f=61&t=25777&p=232574&hil ... ch#p232574

Is there an "easy" solution for removing stuck cam tower caps/top bearings?

(Backstory: U20 was seized when I bought the car). I'm trying to get the cam out of the head right now, and it appears 4 of 5 cam tower caps have sealed themselves to the tops of their respective cam towers. A few look like there's a slight gap on the side w/ 2 studs... the "large" single nut side is stuck. Any tips for getting them separated (without damage)?

Does anybody know the PSI rating for the original overflow cap?

Why I ask: When I had my radiator pressure checked a few years ago, the guy welded on a new collar that accepts easier to find springy caps instead of the original flat one. I put a 14 PSI cap on the radiator, and I'm losing a little coolant over 200 miles or so. I'm thinking it's not high enough in relation to the overflow cap, so the radiator lets out steam instead of sending it to the overflow. My overflow also has a 14 PSI cap.

I know my '65 is only a 7psi system but later cars??????

I always thought that the cap at the radiator was solid (i.e. no psi rating ) while the overflow tank cap was what pressurized the system@

^ Agree, that was my understanding and how my 1600 is set up. (solid cap on the Thermostat tower, pressure cap on Overflow)

Yep, Peter is correct. Solid cap on the radiator, 7 psi on the overflow tank. (hard to find, but XKE has this low pressure system too)
height of overflow tank not important because it works on a siphon (cooling a closed system draws the coolant back in) Hope fully no steam....ever!
Oh, and a thoughtful roadster owner recently pointed out that my lower hose on my U-20 was rubbing slightly on the steering shaft u-joint, and the hose had thinned there. Just order a new one, as one thing always said is "Never let your U-20 overheat". (ok, kinda obvious, it is not like others prescribe it as good business...)

goldbug wrote: ↑Sun Apr 08, 2018 2:06 pm Is there an "easy" solution for removing stuck cam tower caps/top bearings?

(Backstory: U20 was seized when I bought the car). I'm trying to get the cam out of the head right now, and it appears 4 of 5 cam tower caps have sealed themselves to the tops of their respective cam towers. A few look like there's a slight gap on the side w/ 2 studs... the "large" single nut side is stuck. Any tips for getting them separated (without damage)?

They can be a bit sticky regardless. I have to tap on mine a lot sometimes. If you can grab them with something that will give you some ability to pull upwards that might help (very gently applied vise grips?) while you tap on them. I assume you removed all the rockers? If you are able to get one cap free at one end you may be able to wiggle the cam up and down some to loosen them. The other thought would be to remove the cam towers themselves which would give you the ability to wiggle things a lot more. Given that the engine seized and the cam caps are that tight and assumed to be messed up, you are probably going to need a machine shop to align things correctly and possibly line bore the towers in place in the future if a cam is ever going to run true in that head again. It was written that removing the cam towers was the kiss of death for these engines, but that is bunk. The towers are pinned, and if one is careful you typically won't have any trouble reinstalling towers if one tightens the bolts down progressively while checking for cam binding. That may be only for the original set of towers; people have reported problems when mixing and matching towers from other engines, thus the need for line boring as mentioned in the manual, or perhaps a lot of trial and error with several towers until it works. Only way to know is to try!

Patience, Patience, Persistence, like Greg said tap lightly back and forth on the caps. You might need to use some penetrating oil on the them for several days. Spray, tap, spray, wait. Do this repetitively for a few days. If one side gets a gap than tap it back down and work on the other side. Prying under the caps should be avoided.

Can the lower ball joints be replaced without removing the sway bar (or anti-sway bar more appropriate name)?

I'm doing my suspension right now, and I don't see why not. However, you'll be fighting the spring some (less with comp springs) but you can use a jack to push the lower A-arms back up into position. I do wonder if the bar might push things some, making it harder to get the ball joint holes to line up, but I think you can do it. Worst case scenario, you have to remove the bar after trying!