Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Today I performed a compression test (the right way!)
#1: 170
#2: 167
#3: 168
#4: 171
, cleaned the plug wires and checked the plugs (dark brownish). Engine seem to be a good one

Since I had two sets of carbs with M-39 needles (which only seem to exaggerate the rich-idle/lean-midrange problem over the M-43) I decided to put a set on my lathe and cut the midrange area down closer to ADQ spec. Only time will tell, but for now I'm finally idling smooth while still retaining good midrange feel. Up next will be relocating the fuel line to the firewall in the hope of solving a problem which I suspect to be heat-related vapor lock. Hooray for living in a high-altitude desert.

Colortuned by carbs:
I am a little worried about Plug #3. After seeing the plug, I readjusted the valves on #3. That seemed to make the engine idle better so I then lowered the RPM from 1250 to 1100. I have a extra large cam so the car idles lumpy. When the RPMs are up though. OMG...I am in heaven.

If you are curious to see the results then see these You Tube Links...
Please excuse my poor video narration, it was really meant just for me.

Cylinder #1
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Cylinder #2
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Cylinder #3
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Cylinder #4
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Installed a Wideband O2 sensor & gauge!

AEM UEGO I bought off ebay, installed the sensor where the OEM KA24DE O2 sensor was, the steering column was nicely in the way.


and put some alligator clips on the gauge/controller and powered it up.


Does anyone know if leaving the sensor in the exhaust manifold with no controller/gauge powered up is bad for it? Like, is there something that the controller does to power the sensor to make it not foul/last longer? or should I pull it out and put a plug in when not in use? I plan to find a permanent place for the gauge once I redo all my gauges.

krismon wrote:Does anyone know if leaving the sensor in the exhaust manifold with no controller/gauge powered up is bad for it? Like, is there something that the controller does to power the sensor to make it not foul/last longer? or should I pull it out and put a plug in when not in use? I plan to find a permanent place for the gauge once I redo all my gauges.

Brilliant question!! The answer to which is one that I didn't know I needed to know!

today, for my Roadster, I ordered a range of main jets for the webers on my stroker--I need to sort out the initial lean condition so I can break in the cam so I can then start to break in the motor. Wish I had ordered the jets earlier this week so I could work on the carbs over the weekend: Imadumbasssometimes.....

tputland wrote:

krismon wrote:Does anyone know if leaving the sensor in the exhaust manifold with no controller/gauge powered up is bad for it? Like, is there something that the controller does to power the sensor to make it not foul/last longer? or should I pull it out and put a plug in when not in use? I plan to find a permanent place for the gauge once I redo all my gauges.

Brilliant question!! The answer to which is one that I didn't know I needed to know!

Well, I read the manual(rtfm), the bottom of the last page answers my question, but not why...

"With the UEGO Sensor installed, do not run the engine without power applied to the gauge."

Did the first test fit of body to frame.

It is a matter of contamination I believe.
If you are not using the AFR gauge, the sensor should be removed from the exhaust system.
The AFR sensor is a heated device and without power it will deteriorate very quickly.

I'm in the process of restoring the door catches which have been badly worn over the last 47 years.
The teeth on the catches have been worn so much that the doors rattle when closed.
I have welded some filler to the teeth and will grind them back to the ideal profile: -

Part of the afore-mentioned fuel line relocation project involves moving my electric fuel pump from the engine compartment to a cozy new spot just in front of the tank. Interestingly, the only time this car has ever stranded me was when the original mechanical pump died fifty miles from home - a two-block walk to a parts store and twenty minutes to install the electric was all it took so I'm not sure it even counts. Anyway, while looking for likely mounting spots I discovered that my fuel tank had sprung a small leak sometime in the past two weeks (unsurprising since a previous owner had cut and welded it for some reason). So I dug out the spare tank, ruined the air quality in my shop cleaning it out with alcohol (~3/16" of varnish on the bottom but perfect underneath the crud), and got it in. At least the pump mounting and plumbing went smoothly.

I also did a little more sandblasting on some of my spare front suspension parts. Eventually I'll be done with all the bolt-on parts and it'll be time to pull the car apart and blast/paint the frame. Having a pile of restored parts before you actually disassemble a car makes reassembly so much quicker.

If a picture is worth a thousand words here is a small chapter then:

As I got her: With Steve's help:


And with Richard Brown's help:


# would someone with picture edit rights please make the first picture upright ? I tried to post it several times rotated 180* and for some reason will always show it upside down no matter how it looks when I upload it...

## thank you !

Did you take that first pic. in Oz?

Well, Steve and Richard really helped you turn the car over!

Finally got around to swapping out the rear trans seal.
lift, so nice. do want.

Finally got the plate from the state in yesterday's mail.
So her maiden voyage last night was to take my son to his first swim team practice since last weeks flooding.

It was awesome. Tons of fun to drive, felt great w/the roof off and the windows down...

I wanted to drive her to work today, but she was running a little warm on the way home...

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Dave