Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Greg672000: On my '65 I am sure that the splined shaft on both the idler and 'box were tapered. Once I fitted my puller and tightened it up the arms literally fell off
Here is a kit I bought years ago and it was well worth the $$$$$$: -


The two highlighted tools were used for that job

Solex68 wrote: Sat Mar 17, 2018 1:41 pm

Copterpilot wrote: Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:12 pm Are these small cracks on my fly wheel of concern?

Wow. I have never seen that. I'd say it's a big concern. Is that a U20 steel flywheel?
I have a replacement but I would be afraid of what shipping would be to get it to you.

I wonder if it would fit in one of the Post Office's Flat Rate Boxes?

Greg, Harbor Freight has a pitman arm puller like the one Nissanman shows above for $14.99 if memory serves that fits like it was made for the job. Use the cast in tabs and I suggest using a sacrificial nut on the end of the idler shaft you are pressing off of. The shaft has a tapered cone machined into the end that fits the puller end perfectly, but on my first attempt (on the rusty parts car) I actually mushroomed the end of the idler shaft before the pitman arm let go.

Capturing the shaft end inside a nut and protecting the shaft dimensions will help keep a small job from turning into a big one.

Thanks so much guys. I plan to stop by HF soon. All the ones they had at the local autoparts stores were not going to work.

Thanks again nolastyankee, HF had one that was 1 5/8 and that was just able to do it. Set some tension, tapped with a hammer a couple times, more tension, couple more taps then she popped off . Followed your advice and installed that castle nut to protect the end of the shaft, worked perfect. Thanks!

AutoZone rents a TON of those items for FREE (just 'buy' it and return it).

Nice to have in the tool box, but!!

Pic of line to the clutch slave cylinder. Am I missing a fitting/sleeve that would lock it to the support tab or should I just add a couple nuts to do the same? (it's threaded all the way down in that image)

Mine has nuts on it.

there is a clip thingie that goes over the support (similar to the clips that hold the brake lines), but with a cutout to match the hex end of the CABLE. Since the HARD line nut is free to move, this allows you to properly install all and tighten down./up

Brake lights are not working ... all others do (4-ways, park, headlights). Any suggestions on trouble-shooting process?

My regular mechanic is out of town for a few days, so I can crawl around myself with a volt meter.

I would start with checking the fuses, then look at the switch at the pedal, is it lined up - not off to either side. Does it extend far enough when the pedal is pushed to activate it? Is the switch connected, does it work? Is it possible just the brake filaments are burned out in the bulbs?

OK thanks ... will do. Hopefully tonight.

@copterpilot

1st pic is of the hardline brake line
2nd is of the flex cable from the engine showing who it locks to the hardline

hth

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mraitch wrote: Wed Mar 14, 2018 12:08 am My mistake, I had forgotten about the 'stop' You are right, but other than the pins may be different lengths

Different part numbers (apparently) with io-ring and without

81 PIN-SELECT
32861-20100 2L 2
32861-A0100 2L 2
32864-A0100 2L 2
82 PIN-SELECT
32861-A0100 2L 2
32864-A0100 2L

Ok, here’s what I figured out. I’m thinking that this replacement transmission should have had the pins with the O rings which look a little longer. So not having any, I asked one of our helicopter mechanics if he could take off .05” off each. Here’s the result. I have them installed and they work perfectly. They are the two on the left.

@ oppisitelock

I was wrong - the flex cable from the slave is held in place by a nut on the other side of the 'bracket,' The hardline, having a flexible/free end is subsequently screwed on the cable.

Seems like all dimensions are SAE.