Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Wooo hoo! My first stupid question (more to come!)...

Is there some secret or voodoo sacrifice Im unaware of for detatching the copper pipe lead from the temperature gauge?

Working on removing a early 67 flat dash. Everything else is unhooked, even the nut on the lead... But for the life of me it wont separate from the gauge!

That is not the original gauge. You likely have to pull the sender and back feed it all through.

^^^^like he said. The factory used electrical not mechanical temp. gauges.

nolastyankee wrote: Tue Mar 13, 2018 11:31 pm

Copterpilot wrote: Sat Mar 10, 2018 10:12 am Springs and pins are the same length. I also measured the thickness of the case and they are both the same. This has really got me stumped!

The overall length of the pin is not relevant - the height the pin protrudes from the case is determined by the location of the stop diameter on the pin. Think of it like a 1” long bolt. If one bolt had a head 1/4” thick and the other had a head 1/2” thick, both would still be 1” long but both would not go into a hole the same distance.

I understand what you're saying. Here's a picture of two side by side. The pin on the left is from the new transmission. The collar is of the same height.

mraitch wrote: Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:57 pm @copterpilot
the shift lever 'springs' are located under the brass nuts underneath the lever at the rear.

One of mine was broken. Somewhere I found some 'stronger' springs and my lever hardly moves, but still shifts easliy.

There are TWO pin types, one with provision for an o-ring, the other not. If you can find an appropriate o-ring - good to install - stops oil seeping up. ALso make sure that the 'breather' plastic vent is open - that minimizes pressure that causes that seepage.

From carpartsmanual.com

without o-ring
81 PIN-SELECT
32861-20100 2L 2
32861-A0100 2L 2
32864-A0100 2L 2

with o-ring

82 PIN-SELECT
32861-A0100 2L 2
32864-A0100 2L

Thank you very much for this info. Where would I be able to look up those part numbers?

Here are some pics of transmission supports. The rusty one came off my car and the other I found in a box of parts. They are both obviously different. I’m thinking that maybe the one in better shape is from a 1600? Would they be interchangeable? I’m thinking not, but the rusty one is in such bad shape.

NOT interchangeable, I went though this a while ago, there is a thread on the different mounts. IF you use the tall/wrong one, you will not be able to get the transmission mounted without pushing the motor mounts way forward straining the rubber mounts. I would just blast the rust and paint/por-15 it to look good as new.

Has anyone found a retro fit for the center console Latch? I am missing the entire assembly and have had zero luck finding one.

Cyclewrks wrote: Fri Mar 16, 2018 2:04 pm Has anyone found a retro fit for the center console Latch? I am missing the entire assembly and have had zero luck finding one.

That would be good to know as I am missing one as well.

Are these small cracks on my fly wheel of concern?

Yes. They will get bigger, increasing the risk of disintegration. In some cases resurfacing by a machine shop will remove them. However I do not know the min/max thickness dims.

Copterpilot wrote: Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:12 pm Are these small cracks on my fly wheel of concern?

Wow. I have never seen that. I'd say it's a big concern. Is that a U20 steel flywheel?
I have a replacement but I would be afraid of what shipping would be to get it to you.

Sadly, it is relatively common, and yes it is bad. Google flywheel explosion and see what the potential is.

Greetings, what tool or method have people used to pull the pitman arm off the idle box (early)? It clearly has spots where a two arm puller should line up, but the ones I've tried have twisted or not remained true and could not do it . The pitman arm pullers I have looked at are not wide enough to line up due to their fixed width. Thanks!

Copterpilot wrote: Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:12 pm Are these small cracks on my fly wheel of concern?

I was told that they are not a great concern. I get them in the flywheel of one of my competition farm tractors. Of course I took it to get it surfaced anyway, and both the machine shop and some guys that compete with the 1,000 HP farm tractors told me that it is not necessary to get all of the cracks out. They will remove most of them and they don't typically go very deep. That said, any engine that is turning significantly higher than design RPMs is more of a concern. In any motorsport where RPMs are high a scatter blanket around the bell housing is required. Another concern is how the car is being driven. The cracks are caused by heat which comes from excessive slipping of the clutch while starting off. Engaging the clutch properly with just a slight amount of throttle doesn't generate significant heat.