Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Just a FYI type of thing. have you ever worried about the cracks in the rubber brake lines?

usually from age or weathering I guess.

mine were bad after doing some work that stressed them more. they had cracks but after the work they were cracked through.

but still did not leak. but would have if I had not replaced them.

for grins I cut through one and looked at it.
it has a layer of rubber outside and at least 3 layers of braided cloth and then the inner rubber tubing that the brake fluid runs in.

that inner tubing in my case looked ok.
it was still together. then I flexed it and pressed on it and it fell into pieces!

definately past time to replace them!

here are some photos

does anyone know of inexpensive aternatives for the front ball type bleeder screws and the rear more normal type bleeders?

I think the rears are 3/8-24 threads and about 1.29 inch long? at lease that is what some speed bleeders are that people use.

but the Dorma Help speed bleeders I had leaked. and because the front calipers use ball bearings to plug the hole and a screw to push against it the speed bleaders don't have much surface area to plug hole as it just have a thin line of contact where ball bearing was and it leaked. plus they were too narrow and leaked around the threads when trying to bleed with them.

I had to put all the old original bleeders back in to get the bleeding process to work but after that, some of them, fronts especially, seem to still weep a little brake fluid as the crusty rusty ball bearings don't fit right anymore.

so are.there any locally sourced replacements that don't cost $25 to $29 a pair like the roadster vendors charge?

maybe I could just find some small ball beerings at an auto store and just replace those to fix the front ones?

like any pepboys, autozone or oriely bleeder screws work? they are usually about $4-$5.00 a pair.

ideas?

I used a generic speed bleeder in the slave cylinder I got from Autozone recently. I think I got it there too, it worked fine. Or you can try to find another brand. They are definitely worth it, never had any trouble.
I had a speed bleeder in the old cylinder but thought I would just replace it anyway.
I like the SS hoses for brakes and slave cylinder, they work well
Linda

I used this brand.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Curtis wrote:I used this brand.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

+1

Odd question, I just bought two 69 roadsters in fair condition. The 1600 is complete and runs but it's rough looking. While tinkering with it, I noticed that the head bolts on the left side are SAE grade 8 bolts. Is this common or did someone retap the block. Seems to me like they should be metric bolts?

Is there a DIY preferably with pictures on how to remove low windshield dash for repair ?
Did some searching but could not find anything on flat dashes
Thanks

Windscreen off, remove screws (above and below) and mirror.
The gauges, (depends on what's coming off, cover of metal panel) and there is a bolt or two under holding the flat metal part on
Remove metal trim piece to get the cover off.
Disconnect the gauges at least, I like to remove them

19willys51 wrote:Odd question, I just bought two 69 roadsters in fair condition. The 1600 is complete and runs but it's rough looking. While tinkering with it, I noticed that the head bolts on the left side are SAE grade 8 bolts. Is this common or did someone retap the block. Seems to me like they should be metric bolts?

Headbolts are USS 7/16 thread, not SAE, not metric. If you need replacement headbolts I have those on hand as well as stud kits. It would be very unusual and un-necessary to re-tap the block.

msampsel wrote:Windscreen off, remove screws (above and below) and mirror.
The gauges, (depends on what's coming off, cover of metal panel) and there is a bolt or two under holding the flat metal part on
Remove metal trim piece to get the cover off.
Disconnect the gauges at least, I like to remove them

That's sound really simple is that all there is to it ?

Pjackb wrote:

msampsel wrote:Windscreen off, remove screws (above and below) and mirror.
The gauges, (depends on what's coming off, cover of metal panel) and there is a bolt or two under holding the flat metal part on
Remove metal trim piece to get the cover off.
Disconnect the gauges at least, I like to remove them

That's sound really simple is that all there is to it ?

well the screws might not be so simple to get out even with the window and frame out.
The window and frame are a little heavier than they appear so be careful taking it out.
There are the rubber pieces on the window frame to deal with too.
and the bolts holding the window frame might be under upolstery.
If your taking the metal plate off too (like to paint it or powder coat it(, there are bolts on the side along with at least one on the top which hold it in.

Best as I can recall a couple of years ago.

(Early windshield frame) There are two studs that go through the cowl and come out under the dash near the wiper motor. Two 7-16" nuts. Can be a PIA. You will see them if you are on your back in the footwell looking up under the dash.

If you have removed all the gauges and the glove box, you can get to them through there. J

^ Oh yes I forgot about these. But if your taking the dash plat off, you'll have all the gauges out and the glove box is pretty easy.
Then with the steering wheel off you can get at these easier. They do hold the windscreen in place.
But the lower windshield guys live for challenges!

Do any of the vendors sell a replacement clutch linkage clevis pin? I did a quick search and didn't find anything. Mine is all out of round and worn badly.

http://www.datsunparts.com/2589

Just got mine from Dean today. Pat