Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

On slave cylinder - both fit -though if you look at the face of the slave you can see where the crush washer fits, typically the bleeder is on the most accessible side.

In what seems to be standard for trying to get my roadster back on the road it is a step forward and then a step back. Got the battery relocated and start to give the wiring a once over before hooking it up and discovered that at some point before I got the car, the rear carb backfired and melted connectors and the wiring harnesses for the rear chassis, starter and dash. Now to try to either find connectors and hope there is enough slack to fix it or find a harness I can cannibalize.

Cyclewrks wrote:In what seems to be standard for trying to get my roadster back on the road it is a step forward and then a step back. Got the battery relocated and start to give the wiring a once over before hooking it up and discovered that at some point before I got the car, the rear carb backfired and melted connectors and the wiring harnesses for the rear chassis, starter and dash. Now to try to either find connectors and hope there is enough slack to fix it or find a harness I can cannibalize.

Vintage Connections is your friend.

How do you remove the Dimmer switch from a 67 dash!? Luckily i have two dashes with the dimmer switch because I broke 1 trying to remove it. Thank you!

spags1986 wrote:How do you remove the Dimmer switch from a 67 dash!? Luckily i have two dashes with the dimmer switch because I broke 1 trying to remove it. Thank you!

If it's like my 67.5, you pull the knob off and unscrew the small nut that is holding it on, hidden by the knob.

Ok great! Thank you.

Anyone know the bolt size for the radiator air vent tray?

Also, bolt size for these? The car came with none... sins of the PO or are these not necessary?

peeeter wrote:
Also, bolt size for these? The car came with none... sins of the PO or are these not necessary?

regarding the second question. I figured that out earlier, mine were missing too, see this thread:

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ng#p147875

regarding brake line issues with speed bleaders..... I charged to old bleaders and used the old Down, open,close,UP meathod and they firmed right up. thosw speed bleeders just leajwd around the threads and would not hold. vacuum on the UP stroke.


BUT regarding my earlier question about bleeding the clutch slave lines.....

I tried gravity bleeding today. I must have passed 16 oz thru it.

I tried holding pedal down 1/2 way but no fluid would pass in that position.

it does flow with pedal released (up).

but still no luck. there is no resistance in pedal and the travel of the lever is minimal still. 1/2 inch at most.

how far should the slave push rod or lever travel when pedal is pushed to the floor?

Most expeditious way on the clutch is with two people.

Person in car pushes pedal to floor and holds it down.
Person under car opens bleeder, (with a clear hose on it), then closes bleeder.
Person in car releases pedal while bleeder closed.
repeat until no bubbles in the clear hose.
It takes a while to get all the bubbles out of the master.

JT, that was the first way we tried it. did that several times like 8 reservoir refills. just can not get it to firm up and actually push the clutch.

it was fine before replacing the clutch hose. that was all we changed or touched concerning the clutch system.

it was without fluid for 2 days or so while I did other stuff. removing the old hose drained all the fluid out of the master and slave I guess. but reservoir was empty when I first went to fill it.

I dont know if something went wrong with master with it being drained.

I also dont remember how much pressure it use to take to push the clutch pedal. but right now it is supper easy to push, no resistance except the pedal spring and it only moves the lever at the very end of the pedal and not enough to do and good, I think.


I dont get it. I did not have this issue a few years ago when I replaced the slave, but it maybe was not all drained out then either.

there is no bleeder on the master but it does pump fluid fine. just never get a firmer pedal. never pushes the clutch lever much. air somewhere I guess. but not obvious with what comes out of the clear tube into my catch cup. no bubbles except some from bleeding around bleeder screw threads even at a 1/4 turn.

can not seem to clear that up maybe it needs some tephlon tape or something to help seal threads better. I tried packing grease on outside around threads some to try toseal it some. that helps some.

maybe I will take the slave off and hold it in a way to help remove any bubbles in slave.

kind of at a loss as to what is going on. the bleeder is as new as the 3 year old slave.

I need to get some more brake fluid soon. ran through about 48 ounces between all the brake bleeding problems with bad speed bleeders and all these attempts with the clutch line bleeding.

hmmmmmmmmmm?

Be sure there is no obstruction like an aluminum seal in the reservoir. Maybe poke around in the hole to be sure it is clear.
Had that happen also.
Linda

Spongy flexible hose?

nothing blocking in resevoir. fluid flows well just no pedal or pressure resistance, not much lever movement.

brand new firm hoses. but I like the thoughts.

must be air bubbles somewhere that my attempts at bleeding have failed to remove.

svwilbur wrote:
must be air bubbles somewhere that my attempts at bleeding have failed to remove.

It seems that was it. bubbles trapped in the slave cylinder. I took the slave cylinder off and let it hang verticle so bleeder was at top. opened it up and some bubbles came out and then fluid leaked around threads some. I closed it a little to help not leak around threads but still bleed and then pressed the pedal twice and closed the bleeder all the way. then I tried the pedal.

lots of resistance now. feels like a clutch again.

I guess when I changed the slave 3 years ago I did not have this problem because I was on a front jack and car was inclined toward the front, front higher than back of car so bubbles had a better chance of getting out. this time I was on a level lift so bubbles were trapped.

well this method worked in any event.

now on to finishing things up with the brakes as the old bleeders are still weeping a bit under pressure. those old ball bearings under front bleeders dont seal well! rusty balls and sockets. I should have never removed them. I did so speed bleaders would fit but they leaked around threads. so I put the old ones back.

so I need to fix those and do a safety check and a test drive!

(click on the picture to get the correct orientation. as that looks upside down. you want bleeder at the top when bleeding)