Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Thanks David, I just learned from Ross 69 only which is why I couldn't figure out how it mounted on my 68. Somehow I got it in my head it was a 68-69 feature, like usual I was wrong... so truly a stupid question on my part...

Paul

pebbles wrote:

msampsel wrote:Anyone have a picture of the plumbing from heater core at firewall to manifold connections? 67 1600 plumbing

period correct lol

Indeed, a 13 demerit no heater job it appears!
Wrap around bend heater hose.

Funny there is no picture of the proper-demerit-free setup somewhere.

msampsel wrote: Indeed, a 13 demerit no heater job it appears!
Wrap around bend heater hose.

Funny there is no picture of the proper-demerit-free setup somewhere.

sins of PO.
There are some, somewhere. Check members rides threads. I went through a couple years of Zcar Garage blogs Solvang shows but, ran out of time. had to go to W_ _K

@ pebbles, thanks for the effort. I think I probably am in the can't get it wrong zone. .

Will post a better question soon.

I am trying to get things finished off on my latest project, MYoung Comp springs, JT68 Bilstein shocks, new tie rod boots and ball joint boits, new grease, and 3 new rubber brake hoses and a new clutch slave hose.

now I am just bleeding all of it. and I thought I would use some speed breaders instead of the stock bleed screws. I have used some before in my 57 chevy truck 3/8-24 same for the roadster. well they worked great on the truck but major fail on the roadster. I used the same brand and part number as before too. I got them from oreily auto parts and a local auto store Winchester. exact same part numbers but of the 4 I tried to use 3 did not work correctly. they were Dormand HELP brand even though they had thread sealant from factory they fit loose in the threads and blead out around the threads on one instead of out the center hole. another just would not seal on driver front. for that you have to remove the ball bearing to use them but even so it just would not seal well and leaked. so I put the old ball type ones back in and that worked. I ended up with all the old bleeders back in!

I also had issues getting the master primed to be able to push any brake fluid. I blead via the MC side bleeders but i ended up doing that 2 or three times each to get success and finally see fluid out by the wheels brake bleeder!

the speed bleeders just really messed things up too. so many attempts to get fluid to flow. crazy stuff. and of course too many resevoir refills, especially the dinky rear resevoir that has the longest run! and just me doing it to start with and then the wife too when speed bleaders failed. but still I had to get under car and back out from under to check and refill resevoir.

it is really a 3 person job!

I never had such issues before on this car or about 20 other cars over the years. but then this was the first time I had a pretty much dry system from all the new hoses.

I finally got the brakes fixed up and a solid pedal.....

I know you are suppose to do driver rear, passenger rear then driver front and passenger front last as it is shortest lines.

but my question is does front and rear order matter on a 1970 2000 as it has separate reservoirs for front and rear? the lines are separate so cant you do fronts first if you wanted?

also the clutch slave bleeding is maybe not working well now. was working great before repairs. I did not touch any of its linkage, just replaced its hose and of couse all the lines ran dry and reservoir emptied. filled it up but for the longest time it would not pump fluid to the slave. I also tried a speed bleeder on it from one of the brakes it failed on. it did not work as a clutch slave bleeder either. I replaced with stock bleeder and did the UP, DOWN method with the wife and got fluid running and running clear, no bubbles but it only pushes the clutch lever about 1/4 -3/16 of an inch. and does not take hardly any pressure. seems it should be stiffer and push 1.5 inches or so? to me it seems like it is not working correctly an must have an air pocket somewhere.

all that for the simple question:

what is the correct expected clutch slave lever travel?

Sounds like the wrong size speed bleeders. I used them on my '69 a few years ago with no problem.

I used this [ https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic ... 61912.html ] with great success on my new brake system, it sucked fluid through a completely dry system. Did not use the filler bottle, too worried about a spill.

Sorry, can't answer the slave lever question, but I think you are right about air still in the system.

bobd said "but I think you are right about air still in the system."

that is what it seems like. if I watch the lever as someone else pressed the peddle the lever at clutch housing does not move until near the very end of travel. like air is being compressed.

but I have blead and re-blead it about 4 times using regular bleeder fitting and the old UP and Down method, opening only on down stroke and closing at full down for the release of the clutch pedal. and making sure resevoir does not get low.

its wierd. it was fine before replacing hose. and I blead it without issue about 3 years ago when I replaced the slave when the old one blew out. I did not have a hose at the time to replace it then, which is why I am doing it now.

I can wait to test it with engine runing when I get it off the lift but I think the travel is not enough. only moves lever about 1/2 an inch at most. can not test on the lift as I can not actually sit in the drivers seat, the door is blocked by shelving in over crowdedl garage. had to use extension sticks from passenger seat to do the bleeding.

When I bled mine I put a jar with a little bit of fluid in it .Ran a hose to the bleeder valve into the jar beneath the fluid level. I used a stick to prop the clutch pedal down about halfway. Keep the reservoir full, opened the bleeder at the slave cylinder and let the fluid run until all the air was out. After I closed the bleeder topped off the fluid, removed the stick. It was all Good. Hope this helps
Keith

I think the Clutch slave only needs to be gravity bled, pump once or twice to fill the master, then open the slave and let it drain a bit. Like Keith describes above.
If you do pressure bleed it, I think you have to mechanically limit the travel of the arm so that you have pressure at the slave bleeder, I believe I remember reading about a stout shovel handle/dowel/metal rod against the frame to limit the arm travel while bleeding - but I could be mistaken.

My experience with bleeding the brakes and clutch by myself is to put a hose on the valve to a jar. Otherwise if you don't have the speed bleeders it will suck air back in. I now have speed bleeders and that took care of that problem.

I have been using a brake bleed hose and jar setup. I originally tried to gravity bleed it but did not know how. I just filled the resevoir but nothing came down the line. I did not prop pedal half way or pump it any so I guess the master was not primed. but no fluid flowed. I was kind of surprized as when I replaced the hose everything did drain out of the resevoir so I was thinking it might gravity blead itself if I left it open on slave I to a tube and jar.

I will try some of the suggestions now that it is slightly working maybe it will gravity bleed some. when I blead it a couple years ago I guess it still had some fluid in the lines just the slave gave out, but it did not have any rebleeding issues.

I have blead a couple other clutch lines before on other car models without this issue. just kind of wierd.

I dont like that the bleader is positioned below the hose connection on the slave. it seems like an air pocket could sit up above it in the slave forever. anyway to resolve that other than removing the slave and holding slave wit bleeder at the top?

im not sure that would help just some thoughts. maybe I will try loosening the hose connection which is above the bleed screw and see if it will let some air escape?

I think I had an issue once with having the slave hose in the wrong spot on the slave cylinder if that is even possible..
Linda

Linda wrote:I think I had an issue once with having the slave hose in the wrong spot on the slave cylinder if that is even possible..
Linda

I thought of that but mine is just like the NAPCO OEM one on datsunparts #1485 with the bleeder on the bottom once it is mounted in the correct location.
http://www.datsunparts.com/assets2/thum ... 5205.1.jpg Although the carpartsmanual show it the other way around???? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/sp ... ders/slave

Plus I think the hose has a bigger machined area around it to accommodate a copper washer. So I think I have it in the correct hole.
But having the bleeder at the bottom is most likely is making it harder to bleed the air out.

I will get another shot at it tomorrow. I have to work today.

Is there anyway to restore brushed aluminum? About to focus on cleaning up the headlight bezels on my 67.5 and wondering if anyone has any tricks they are willing to share.

If you are referring to the roadster trim, I have been unsucessful in restoring it. My suggestion is to have it powdercoated in aluminim, or any other color for that matter.
tends to fill in the dents
with the ridges, almost impossible to restore it properly.
then again, dean sells a set for what I perceive to be a reasonable price.