Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I asked for opinions on the FB group and the consensus was the brace isn't needed at all. Still debating how much to remove.

My trans has landed. I didn't think about the upper PPF mount.

Motor mounts getting tacked in tomorrow.

As I have it mocked up, I have just over 1" of hood clearance. How much do I need? I would like to go to 1/2" but I don't know if that is enough. I can't see the motor torquing over that much.

What am I missing?

Slackline wrote: Sat Jan 23, 2021 7:03 pm Motor mounts getting tacked in tomorrow.

As I have it mocked up, I have just over 1" of hood clearance. How much do I need? I would like to go to 1/2" but I don't know if that is enough. I can't see the motor torquing over that much.

What am I missing?

Nice!

How much ground clearance do you have with 1" hood clearance?

I don't remember what you're doing for mounts, but I'm going to try to go with something similar to this style. They won't take much vibration out but there will be almost no torqueing movement.

I have seen those mounts. Almost went with that style mount. Weld some ears to the frame, make a plate with the cylinder housing and you are done.

I went with Miata rectangle pads. They are only 2 1/4" wide. So I am welding flats with gussets for the pads to sit on. Then plates on the motors will have channel coming off with a hole for the mount.

The Miata mounts are rectangles with a threaded stud coming out the top and another coming out the bottom. A plate with a hole to mount the pad to the frame, and a plate on the motor with channel or square tubing with a hole to go on the top stud on the pad.

With my mounts, I could shim the motor up by putting spacers on the mounts. The style you have doesn't have adjustment but they are clean.

Hard to tell for ground clearance. It is currently over 6.5 inches, but the weight of the motor is sitting on blocks, not the chassis. So, if I have a 1" drop from the motor weight, I will be at my stock clearance. (I have Mike Young's springs.) If it drops more, then I would have less. That is why I would like to raise it another half inch if possible.

Thanks and good luck with yours.

Looks like this...

Adjustable is a good idea.

My goal is to have the oil pan the same distance off the ground as the frame. I forgot to compare those measurements with the R16 in.

A skid plate wouldn't be the worst idea if you get too low.

damarble wrote: Sat Jan 23, 2021 11:41 pm Adjustable is a good idea.

My goal is to have the oil pan the same distance off the ground as the frame. I forgot to compare those measurements with the R16 in.

A skid plate wouldn't be the worst idea if you get too low.

That would make you much safer than those of us running 7 quart pans... just ask Alvin! I think his "rock to the pan" experience led to his SR swap.

Anything helps. Another 1/8" of aluminum under mine. Might stop some of the little stuff.

Nice skid plate. I need to something similar to mine. My comp pan barely passes the dollar bill test! Sorry about the sideways photo.

WOW. That is low
I'd be building something for sure. That would leave neat little cornrows in a squirrel though.

Yeah, that is very low.

I am trying to have more than a buck. lol

I've run mine like that on the street, cross multiple states (and even on dirt roads) for 35 years... knock on wood!

Should have the motor mounts done by the weekend.
Then I'll start on the transmission mount.
After that, pull the motor and clean up the motor mounts and box in the front crossmember.

I will need to move the throttle lever/arm to the drivers side of the rod, unless someone else has a better idea for a gas pedal/linkage.

Ok.

Front crossmember is boxed. I added some 1/8" plate vertically inside the crossmember where the old web was cut out. Then boxed the rest. There is also 1/8" plate added to the bottom of the crossmember. No pics of the bottom plate though. One opening on the crossmember is angled for clearance, but I don't remember why. LOL.

Motor mounts in. Still not cleaned up all the way, but they are there. Made from 1/4" plate along with the supporting gussets that help tie them to the frame.

Next is to put the motor/trans back in and make the trans mount. I am thinking of mounting some 1/4 plate to the trans then using energy suspensions bushings to suspend the plate on the x member. That should keep it captive while allowing some flex.