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Thanks Pat! I will check that out.

Question: do I need to get a bearing puller to take the rear bearing behind the mainshaft nut?

yusef wrote: Fri Aug 28, 2020 8:51 pm Thanks Pat! I will check that out.

Question: do I need to get a bearing puller to take the rear bearing behind the mainshaft nut?

Yes, you will need a puller or bearing separator. You should be able to get a loner from most auto parts stores.

Other option, and it’s riskier, is to tap the bearing off with a brass (soft!) punch striking only the inner race. The risk is that you damage the bearing. I have used this Method on hard to reach with a puller without incident. You just have to be precise and take your time.

Okay. Was able to get bearing puller and pull bearing and flip washer. Have not completed torque process as my wrench only goes up to 150 ft-lbs, and manual says double nut requires 215 ft-lbs.

Is the locking plate necessary? If so, where do I get one?

Also, I checked the springs and balls in the check balls..they're all there and there appears to be no difference between the 3 in terms of spring stiffness/constant.

Now, look at the bottom of your tailshaft housing, there are 2 bolts that hold the pins and springs in place. These give you the centering effect of the shift lever, and also the tension when you go over and into 3rd, 4th, 5th, and reverse. The stronger spring has more coils, that goes in the passenger side.

Now, look at the bottom of your tailshaft housing, there are 2 bolts that hold the pins and springs in place. These give you the centering effect of the shift lever, and also the tension when you go over and into 3rd, 4th, 5th, and reverse. The stronger spring has more coils, that goes in the passenger side.

Sorry about that, not the easiest for an old guy