Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I am looking to install the windshield on my 67.5 and I have a few questions. Do I have to buy an expensive dash cap? or can I just use a cover or something? Can I install a dash cap after the windshield is installed? What other things do I need to have before I get the windshield installed beside the windshield with the frame? Do I need to give the installer bolts or something? I know I am missing the weatherstripping but that's pretty much the extent of my knowledge. In retrospect, this post should have probably had its own thread. Thank you.

Also, I was messing with something underneath the dash and I accidentally pulled the steering wheel out a little bit and now it no longer turns the wheel because it is not connected. How do I reconnect it? The wheel is still attached to the column, it just slides out.

The steering wheel is not attached to the part labeled (22-17) but I think everything else is good.

If the wheel has moved backwards [towards the driver] there is a problem with the retaining nut key #12.
It needs to be torqued down onto the lock washer key #13, to hold the wheel onto the steering shaft splines.

The retaining nut #12 is still connected to the shaft as far as I can see. The steering wheel along with the shaft pull out towards the driver. I just can't figure out how to reconnect somewhere around 14 and 15 and the steering wheel to 22-17. The steering wheel turned the wheels until I accidentally pulled it off 22-17.

Errrk! Sounds like you may have pulled the uni joint off the steering box input shaft or the bottom of the steering shaft, key #43.
Have a look under the hood and check if the joint is not attached.

If so you will need to re-engage the splined joint with the shaft and tighten the clamping fastener key #51.

Sounds like #101 has pulled out of #84 in the above illustration.

Could be depending on the year of car.

Before I dive into it, can the tach be swapped out without having to pull the entire dash out on a ‘70?

Cyclewrks wrote:Before I dive into it, can the tach be swapped out without having to pull the entire dash out on a ‘70?

Yes, it is not easy but it can be done.

Yes, you can get the tach out but it's a challenge.
I pulled the ds seat, steering wheel and steering column. Sounds pretty drastic but, in the long run, quicker and gave me a chance to paint the column.
Once that's out of the way you can get your hands up to that top wing nut.
While that's out, it's a good time to think about replacing any dash lights that may be out (or swapping for LED's).
Dan

Front tires doing the shimmy shake on my 67.5
Possible issues
1. wheels need to be balanced (did not have this problem when wheels were on my 68)
Anything else to look for?
I dont recall having this problem when i had the 13" steelies on
67.5 had sat for awhile (2+ years)
TIA

space wrote:Front tires doing the shimmy shake on my 67.5
Possible issues
1. wheels need to be balanced (did not have this problem when wheels were on my 68)
Anything else to look for?
I dont recall having this problem when i had the 13" steelies on
67.5 had sat for awhile (2+ years)
TIA

A lot of mine are not too round. When I last mounted tires only 2 of 5 were ok. the rest either wobbled side to side or up and down as they turned on the balance machine. I put the worse ones on the rear and the better ones one the front. I also ended up getting some more used ones and hoping that some of them are more round. I have not tested those yet to find out but hoping that out of the 10 stock wheels I have not that I can find 4 that are good.

So I am guessing that some of yours may be out of round. You should balance them and have a look at how they spin on the machine as it slows down.

There are also places you can take them that straighten wheels but around San Jose they tend to get about $140 a wheel to do that. You can buy about 3 used ones for that price.

Good luck.

L20 Swap for a 1600
Possible?
How difficult?
Can 1600 parts be used on the L? (ie carbs, alt, trans, etc)
T

Short answer. Possible yes. Will probably diminish the value of your 1600 unless you are too far gone to worry... an L swapped roadster sold recently on BaT - it did pretty well too. Carbs could swap and I believe an SU manifold from a roadster will work on the L - but I am not sure whether it is the R16 or U20 manifold that swaps over. There are definitely easier swaps that will yield more power I think. Consider building up/stroking the 1600. They are capable motors that will take a lot of abuse - and thankfully relatively plentiful.