Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Looks great. I will be tackling the same problem on my vintage racer project. The area to be cut out and replaced is only about 6inches square but really needs to be done. What gauge sheet metal did you use?

Looking good. You have a great friend to spend that much time with you on the project - hope he's STILL your friend.

Brian; the metal I used to replace most of the floor pan was purchased from Ross Mullen in Vancouver. I think it's 20 guage, and the original sheet metal from Datsun was pretty close to the same size (I think it was 21 guage- seems like an unusual size). To replace more of the firewall and side kick panel I used some thicker metal, around 18 guage I believe.
No Toptoy: My friend really owed me, so it was time to collect. I spent the previous day replacing his rochester carb with a new Holley on his Iroc Camero for his son.

[quote="JMartin" My friend really owed me, so it was time to collect. [/quote]
Collect you did! Thats tough working around the pedals and under the steering wheel!!
Floor is looking good.

I used some good seam sealer on all the new edges (top and bottom) that I welded in, and undercoated with some spray can undercoat over the last 2 days. Of course in the process I found more problem areas that I had to clean up and put new metal over top of. I did use a POR type product first, then sprayed it with Tremclad, and then covered it. I used self tapping metal screws, I figured that should hold it.

I was about to put the fuel tank back in and notice 2 stress cracks near the rear bumper where the tank gets bolted on. I figure 42 years of flexing over the bumps caused it to crack. Thats tomorrow's job!

My question for the forum is "should I attempt to remove the fuel sending unit/fuel level unit from inside the tank, and get the tank boiled out first before I put it back into the car". I have a photo below of the top of the tank. In my manual it talks about set screws holding the unit into the tank. From this photo it looks like a Bayonet style (turn into the grooves to remove). I sprayed it liberally with a type of "loosenall", thats why it looks wet

As far as you have gone with your restoration, I would certainly take this opportunity to "do it right" "while you are there"!
So, yes, I would send the tank off.

Can anyone tell me how to take the top plate off the fuel tank? It doesn't look like screws it looks like the fuel level ubit turns clockwise or counter clockwise to unlock from the tabs. Is that right?

I believe I carefully tapped the tab with a screwdriver and hammer to spin it. And yes, get it cleaned. Who knows what old gas gunk may be living in there.

Still trying to spin off the top of the fuel tank. 42 years of dirt and grime has made the lid hard to remove. I sprayed it for 2 days with lubricant but I can't use heat(gas tank!) and I don't want to destroy what's left of those little tabs. Suggestions. Oh ya, I assume it removes by turning counter clockwise?

If you can get the locking ring off, there should be an o-ring underneath. If they get buggered up too much I think you can get replacements from the vendors. But if the o-ring is OK you can usually just flatten out the lock ring and re-use it.

Cheers
James

The o ring and lock ring should still be available from your local Nissan dealer. The o ring always seems to grow once the gas gets at it. I removed my sending unit 2 weeks after I installed a new sending unit and the o ring was not reusable. If you can't get the ring off by tapping the ring then I would gently pry the tabs on the tank to loosen the ring. Getting an old lock ring off will usually destroy it. Good luck.

Thanks everyone. Man you have to love this list with all the great advise. I did get the ring off. I pried up the tank tabs just enough to allow the ring to slide around. Removed ring, unit, and O-ring. Cleaned up tab and unit on wire wheel. Tank still looks great inside. I may try to put in a solution and do it myself or get a price on sending it out. There is a 4th tab on the tank. I assume the unit fits under it to apply more pressure once the ring goes on top

Here are some photos of the progress today. After spraying more undercoat on the underside of the car, I lowered it back onto the frame and bolted it down.

I ran into an issue with coating the inside of the tank. When I looked inside the tank I noticed one of the baffles had become unwelded and was loose inside the tank. It took me 2 hours to cut the metal baffle into small enough pieces to get it to fit back out the small opening in the tank...what a PITA.

I purchased a good quality degreaser, and took the fuel tank to the car wash. I poured the degreaser into the fuel tank, sloshed it around for a few minutes (closed up all openings, rolled it over and over, etc) I then used the pressure washer to "steam clean" the tank. I brought it back home and dried it for several days before I poured in 1 Litre (1 quart) of tank sealer. (photos to follow). Be sure to roll tank over and over to cover all sides.
CAUTION; this stuff stains hands and clothing very well. Stinks a lot. Do this in a well vented area!
I poured the remaining contents back into a new sealed container

I spent this past weekend working on a substituted for Dynamat. A friend gave me a roll of foil insulation that they use to wrap around boilers. I used a 3M spray adhesive and was very impressed with the results (photos to follow) I thought I would only need about 36 square feet, but I used closer to 50. I put it into the rear quarters as well, to help reduce sound levels.

I purchased a new Amp, and a new stereo with Ipod connections, USB, and aux input jack. Stupid me forgot that it won't fit into the stock opening. Now I have to decide if I want to butcher the stock opening, or find another location. I have to look on this list to see the posts about possible locations for it. Oh well, it will sound good once its done!