Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Ok, lets go back a bit and this might make things a little clearer.

We want to make the brake (and clutch) lines look as clean as possible, and get them out of the engine compartment. Here is a shot of my wife's 1500, so you can get an idea:



Well, once they have exited thru the side of the engine compartment inner fender, you then need to get them to go into the direction they need to go-- the clutch, back across the firewall (below where you don't notice it), the fronts to a T down below, and the rears down the side of the frame rail.

Because of all these bends, it is easier to put a few junctions in, otherwise there would be no possibility of getting these lines to fit.

So in the photo you illustrated, the front brake line goes to the T, the clutch line is the one with the junction, and the third line is a mock-up line to get the bends correct in the engine compartment-- it would then get a junction before heading down the frame rail.

The transitions with the junctions are necessary, we just hide them in the inner fender so we can keep things looking clean in the engine compartment.

Oh yes, the brake line guard for the lines in the inner fender come from Ford pickups.

Hope that makes things clearer.

Michael

spriso wrote:Ok, lets go back a bit and this might make things a little clearer.

.......

Hope that makes things clearer.

Michael

Yes, much clearer. Thanks again.

OK Really dumb question. Which reservoir is for the front brakes? I have mine plumbed front reservoir to front brakes, rear to rear and I'm having problems getting the rears to bleed. Someone told me I have the plumbing backwards.

Regards,
Steve

Pretty sure the res closest to the fire wall is front, also has the biggest res.

I agree w/ Greg. Front brakes should be plumbed to the larger reservoir closest to the firewall.

Yes, this is correct-- the Front Brakes get plumbed to the reservoir closest to the firewall, the Rear Brakes to the outside reservoir. Many master cylinders have a F and R cast into them to prevent a mix-up!



Michael

I'm currently working on restoring/rebuilding my '69. I like what Spriso has done with the brake lines in the engine compartment and want to go that way with my project.

I'm reusing all my stop brake parts - rear drums with 3/4" brake cylinders, stock front brake rotors and calipers, as well as the stock master brake cylinder and removing the stock pressure switch/junction box located on the passenger side firewall.

I want to rerun all of my brake lines as seen in this thread. What additional parts do I need? From what I read, I need a "T" fitting to split the front brake line. Is an adjustable proportioning valve for the stock rear drums needed inline in the rear brake line? Is a delay valve needed for the front brake circuit? what other info should I know?

What Ford truck did that brake line line guard come from? Did you get it from the dealer, or a junk yard, or what? I will be re-routing my lines to match yours. I like this setup a lot.

Any late model, full sized Ford pickup has the armor. I always get it from the u-pull-it.

Michael

Spriso I haven't read all this thread yet- but
This work is BEAUTIFUL!!!!

-Katie

It just occurred to me that you are talking about the spring like thing on the lines. I've seen this before on Fords, near the master cylinder, and next to the connection to the soft line at the caliper. Great idea! I will do the same thing, and get rid of what I've been using. I thought you were referring to the neat grommet you have going into the fender, which is what I was curious about. I hadn't noticed the springs on the lines, but I'm glad you clarified, because now I have another great improvement to make! You guys are brilliant. So, where did you get that nice grommet in the fender???

The grommet is used on Toyota's-- you will find one on each side of the engine compartment where the brake line passes thru the inner fender into the front wheel well. When we visit the U-Pull-It we always look for interesting grommets and have a big box of them back at the shop that we regularly dive into when we need one...

Michael

Is that double master cylinder on your wife's 1500 a direct fit for the early cars or do you change out the firewall area like the newer roadsters to accept it? Hard to tell from that angle.

Hey Michael, why not put the brake tee on the differential on the drivers side?

Old thread, wake up!

Michael, would you have a pic of the front brake piping on a NA engine? You wrote you simply cross over to passenger side, instead of going into the wheel well.

I’m probably deleting the pressure switch and going for a simple T connection for the front brakes, but not sure where to put it. Ideas are welcome!

Stupid question (who dares wins): Does it matter if the brake pipe for one wheel is longer than the other? For instance, right front brake being twice as long as left front brake?

Pressure switch: A Z-owning friend of mine said he wouldn’t delete the switch because he thought it served another purpose in addition to the warning light: If pressure is lost at one side (snapped brake line for instance), then the slide inside the switch would go towards that side and physically block the outlet, preventing fluid and pressure loss. Any truth to this?