Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Lost my "A" from the hood letters. 1) are there differences in the "font" from suppiers 2) Can I just get one letter? 3) Can I still be Canadian with out my "eh"?

Ralph wrote:3) Can I still be Canadian with out my "eh"?

As long as you share copious amounts of poutine.

Does anyone have a list of bolt sizes and thread pitches for a u20 engine? Kinda like we have in wiki for the frames? Looking to replace all the bolts on the motor in a yellow zinc finish.

I took my roadster out for it's first extended drive after the winter lay off & noticed that the amp gauge in the dash was going up over the 30 mark when driving & hovering at the 30 mark at idle. When I opened the hood I found battery acid in the rubber tray under the battery so obviously my battery is being way overcharged.
I have a replacement voltage regulator that came from the PO but the codes are different on the cover. Can anyone tell me if these two voltage regulators are interchangeable? My current one is on the left, the possible replacement is on the right.
Car is a 69 2L with solex.

Ralph wrote:Lost my "A" from the hood letters. 1) are there differences in the "font" from suppiers 2) Can I just get one letter? 3) Can I still be Canadian with out my "eh"?

You'll figure it "ooout" aye?

So the tech wiki has a torque value of 35 ft/lbs for the clutch to flywheel.
Does this means the 6 bolts which hold the pressure plate in place?

Trying to eliminate all ambiguity and confusion before the heat of battle.

msampsel wrote:So the tech wiki has a torque value of 35 ft/lbs for the clutch to flywheel.
Does this means the 6 bolts which hold the pressure plate in place?

Trying to eliminate all ambiguity and confusion before the heat of battle.

I can't think of anything else that it could be, so I'd go with that assumption.

PandaBoy wrote:I took my roadster out for it's first extended drive after the winter lay off & noticed that the amp gauge in the dash was going up over the 30 mark when driving & hovering at the 30 mark at idle. When I opened the hood I found battery acid in the rubber tray under the battery so obviously my battery is being way overcharged.
I have a replacement voltage regulator that came from the PO but the codes are different on the cover. Can anyone tell me if these two voltage regulators are interchangeable? My current one is on the left, the possible replacement is on the right.
Car is a 69 2L with solex.

Check the "bat" wire on your alternator to be sure the insulation (between the post there and the alternator case) is still good.
I had a similar problem long ago (over charging) and it occurred because the insulation on the positive lead on the alternator was getting close to ground. One day going over a railroad track (with stiff suspension) it went dead short. If I did not have a cuttoff switch for anit-theft the whole car might have caught on fire.

I can't tell you about your regulator, but you should be somewhere between 13.5 - 14.5 volts on your battery when charging at 2000 rpm IIRC.
Over 15 volts is too high.
Somewhere I saw a test for VREG pins in terms of ohms etc. blew it off because I've not had a Vreg for a while now.

PandaBoy wrote:I took my roadster out for it's first extended drive after the winter lay off & noticed that the amp gauge in the dash was going up over the 30 mark when driving & hovering at the 30 mark at idle. When I opened the hood I found battery acid in the rubber tray under the battery so obviously my battery is being way overcharged.
I have a replacement voltage regulator that came from the PO but the codes are different on the cover. Can anyone tell me if these two voltage regulators are interchangeable? My current one is on the left, the possible replacement is on the right.
Car is a 69 2L with solex.

Not sure about that VR, but the solid state Airtex/Wells 1V1250 works like a champ in my '66. Also listed as being correct for your '69 2L. $34 at rockauto.com

Mainer311 wrote:

msampsel wrote:So the tech wiki has a torque value of 35 ft/lbs for the clutch to flywheel.
Does this means the 6 bolts which hold the pressure plate in place?

Trying to eliminate all ambiguity and confusion before the heat of battle.

I can't think of anything else that it could be, so I'd go with that assumption.

I looked at pictures of the bolts in the pp/flywheel and convinced myself they are big enough to handle 35 ft pounds.

Thanks

msampsel wrote:
Check the "bat" wire on your alternator to be sure the insulation (between the post there and the alternator case) is still good.
I had a similar problem long ago (over charging) and it occurred because the insulation on the positive lead on the alternator was getting close to ground. One day going over a railroad track (with stiff suspension) it went dead short. If I did not have a cuttoff switch for anit-theft the whole car might have caught on fire.

Thanks, checked insulator & OK. I may post this under the "identify parts" forum. to see if anybody cab help with the VR.

What type of insulator is that on the B (Battery) hot wire? Would be nice to be able to replace as needed.

Linda

Starting the rebuild on my u20.... HOW DO I REMOVE THE JACKSHAFT 2 PIECE BEARING? Wondering if there is any special process or tips one can share. Thank you! Also when installing the new 1 piece I know to match up the oil holes but what is the best process to push them in?

Linda wrote:What type of insulator is that on the B (Battery) hot wire? Would be nice to be able to replace as needed.

Linda

Well on a GM alternator it's plastic the red ring keeps the output isolated from the case. Most are plastic now. My old Nissan was I think a fiber board type. Not sure it resisted sulfuric acid too well. Plastic certainly does those per the battery case

No mention on torque values for four speed under cover plate anywhere. I'm thinking 5 ft/lbs seems about right.

Anyone torqued their cover on?