The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

[Toptech360]

Are spl310 axles wider or narrower than later models? Or the same?

Wider iirc

Ok so i did some research and found a 1500 axle housing is 45.75" and a 1600 is 43.50" (thank you ted heaton)

I remember when i first got my car my fil said he had replaced the differential with one from a newer roadster. At the time i didnt think much of it but now realize he must of meant the whole axle housing assembly because i believe the diffs are not interchangeable.

Ive always thought the rear tires seemed pretty sunk into the wheel wells and now i know why! My question is about running some wheel spacers. Are the wheels on roadsters hub centric or lug centric? I am not a big fan of spacers but i am considering using some sort of 1" spacer for the rear wheels only. I know it will cause some added leverage to the bearings but I'm ok with that for this application. Im just trying to figure out where to find a suitable 1 inch or 1.25" spacer that will fit. Anyone have any advice for me? Thanks.

[spl310]

EBay is awash with spacers

[Toptech360]

Thanks Sid,
I went out to look at the lugs and had a "duh" moment. The drum slips over the axle hub and the wheels are centered via the wheel studs or so it appears. this makes a spacer easier to source because i originally thought i would need a spacer with 7/16 stud provision and a center bore of 3" which i have not found yet.

[spl310]

I was brief because I was on a work break. Yes, lug centric. There's a local company that custom makes them. Some one inch spacers should be enough. I have a 1500 with a later axle as well, so I get what you are dealing with.

[msampsel]

That fuel vent hose goes from the fuel tank to a fitting mounted under the trunk. From there, it goes from the fitting (on the inside of the trunk) to the fuel filler tube. Inside of the trunk also. Hope that makes sense.

I'm not sure on the flywheel question.

Kyle

And if you remove the plate in the trunk you will see the vent tube lurking in forward (right hand side facing trunk IRC)

[krispoulin]

Just curious:
Back when I fried my ammeter due to not having the alternator ground connected, could that incident also have melted the green/white wire that connects the Light switch to the taillights?

[Curtis]

Just curious:
Back when I fried my ammeter due to not having the alternator ground connected, could that incident also have melted the green/white wire that connects the Light switch to the taillights?

Yes, and a whole lot more. I have seen or have several examples of the ammeter wires wiping out several of the wires in a dash and hood harness.

The tail light wire is taped together with the large white wire that runs from the starter harness and to the ammeter.

[mikepal]

Seemingly obvious question here.....It appears I have a very small leak in my head gasket. I am seeing a very small amount of oil in my radiator. I am not seeing any sign of coolant in the oil, car is running cool, no smoke out the tailpipe. I re-torqued the head, cleansed the coolant and added water back in. The oil (slight amount) came right back after an hour drive.

Stupid question is....should I park the car until I can replace the head gasket? Or can I drive the car...keeping a close eye on things and perform the repair during the winter (which is preferred)?

[mraitch]

enjoy the MG

[Gregs672000]

I would think that she will tell you when it's getting bad. What does the oil look like? That's probably more critical.

[mikepal]

Oil is clear and the "sizzle test" lacked sizzle.

I would think that she will tell you when it's getting bad. What does the oil look like? That's probably more critical.

[GeoffM]

could someone describe or better yet post a photo of the ground that goes from near the starter to the frame? Mine doesn't have one and I thought I would add it while I'm replacing the starter.

Thanks!

[svwilbur]

could someone describe or better yet post a photo of the ground that goes from near the starter to the frame? Mine doesn't have one and I thought I would add it while I'm replacing the starter.

Thanks!

You want to be sure to use a flat braided flexible ground cable. Do NOT use a short battery cable. One of my roadsters previous owners had installed a stiff battery cable and it just wore out from flexing too much as the engine does move and the frame does not, in relation to the engine.

Here is a photo of how you do it but it has the wrong type of cable. Use a flexible one like in the picture from Rallye.
http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES ... DU24-6.htm

If your not concerned about being absolutely stock you can pick up a flat braided/woven one up off the shelves at an auto parts store that will work. Get it long enough. You can always fold up it by the frame rail, but leave it loose so it can move and flex. That is what I did.

[svwilbur]

Seemingly obvious question here.....It appears I have a very small leak in my head gasket. I am seeing a very small amount of oil in my radiator. I am not seeing any sign of coolant in the oil, car is running cool, no smoke out the tailpipe. I re-torqued the head, cleansed the coolant and added water back in. The oil (slight amount) came right back after an hour drive.

Stupid question is....should I park the car until I can replace the head gasket? Or can I drive the car...keeping a close eye on things and perform the repair during the winter (which is preferred)?

If your "daring" I suppose you could try one of the Head Gasket Repair products they sell at auto stores that you add to the coolant.

I have never used them for oil in radiator though. I have only used additives for small coolant leaks, coolant in oil, not oil in coolant like you have. I poured the product in my 97 Camaro and 2 years later it still is not leaking. I know others that also used it for that.

In both cases we used AlumAseal(R) the #1 selling powder form of Cooling System Stop Leak. That adds what looks like fine aluminum powder to the coolant.

But yours is a head gasket leak. They sell other specific additives for head gasket repair that adds to the coolant. Like listed here:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... =stop+leak

Here is some info on one of them:

" BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer will repair and seal leaks in blown head gaskets, warped or cracked heads, heater cores, and freeze plugs. BlueDevil contains no solid or particulate matter, and will not clog or harm your engine. It bonds to metal, aluminum, cast, alloy, or plastic, and it's safe and easy to use. BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer is compatible in gasoline and diesel engines. It stops leaks permanently.

Permanent repair for head gaskets, warped or cracked heads, heater cores, and freeze plugs
Contains no solid or particulate matter that can harm a vehicles engine
Alternative solution for costly and time consuming repairs
Safe and easy to use"

But use at your own risk. I just wanted to remind you that there are those products that might work. Or might help stretch to winter time for your repair.

[GeoffM]

Thanks Stacey, much appreciated!