Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Nissanman wrote:I always advise using a good quality thread sealant.
That way you don't need to tighten them to within a bees dick of their life to make them oil tight.
Hate it when they are done up really tight by the previous "mechanic"

I think I still have some #14 Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE that I used on some head bolt threads on a different vehicle's project. Maybe I will put a touch of that on them after cleaning them up a bit. Sounds like it would work.

"Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE

Product Description:

Permatex economical general-purpose fitting sealant. Outperforms tapes and pipe dopes. Resists common shop fluids.
Product Specs:

Seals and resists pressure in air, oil, diesel fuel, and hydraulic systems.
Remains pliable at higher and lower temperatures. Temperature range -65 F. to 300 F.(-54C to 149C)
Suggested applications: Air conditioning fittings, temperature sending fittings, hydraulic fittings, intake manifold bolts, thermostat bolts, exhaust manifold bolts.
1 oz. liquid squeeze tube "

Nissanman wrote:I always advise using a good quality thread sealant.
That way you don't need to tighten them to within a bees dick of their life to make them oil tight.

Bumblebee or straight up honeybee???

bakerjf wrote:

Nissanman wrote:I always advise using a good quality thread sealant.
That way you don't need to tighten them to within a bees dick of their life to make them oil tight.

Bumblebee or straight up honeybee???

What is the air speed of an unladen bumble bee???

msampsel wrote:

bakerjf wrote:

Nissanman wrote:I always advise using a good quality thread sealant.
That way you don't need to tighten them to within a bees dick of their life to make them oil tight.

Bumblebee or straight up honeybee???

What is the air speed of an unladen bumble bee???

Africanized or domestic?

"I f@rt in your general direction"

Nissanman wrote:"I f@rt in your general direction"

You never know what comes from " Down Under"

Hmmmm, is that a whiff of elderberry?

svwilbur wrote:When you remove the drain and fill plugs in the differential and the transmission do you put any sealant on them on reinstall or is a dry fit the proper way to go?

I am wondering if they are all tapered and you nust go up tight?

are there any proper torque numbers for them?

I use teflon tape.

Nissanman wrote:I always advise using a good quality thread sealant.
That way you don't need to tighten them to within a bees dick of their life to make them oil tight.
Hate it when they are done up really tight by the previous "mechanic"

Well I got it done but Wow they were on tight! and the transmission drain had apparently leaked even that tight.

I had to use a 24" braker bar on the drain plugs and a hydraulic jack handle over a stubby 1/2 socket wrench for diff filler plug and I use that setup through an adjustable wrench and levered off the chassis rail for the tranny filler plug!

the diff had the correct amount of oil in it.

But the tranny was only about a tad over half full. I have had a slow drip/weep on the tranny drain plug.

Good thing I checked it.

Also, looking in the filler hole I think I see brass on the left so I used the GL4 gear oil, NOT GL5.

there is scratches on that silver piece in there. I assume it is a selector or something that slides in that cylindrical piece?

I used high temp sealant to try to seal threads so it wont leak hopefully.

I used GL4 for the gear oil above.

Not sure of the correct term but that shiny surface is your synchronizer coupler, it spins and slides with the gear selector movement. So it should be shiny and uniform. Looks like yours may have seen a little grit or has been running a little dry. Hopefully adding oil will alleviate this. Doesn't look horrible at all.

Yeah, getting to the fill hole is awful. I usually just do it blind with an adjustable.

notoptoy wrote:Not sure of the correct term but that shiny surface is your synchronizer coupler, it spins and slides with the gear selector movement. So it should be shiny and uniform. Looks like yours may have seen a little grit or has been running a little dry. Hopefully adding oil will alleviate this. Doesn't look horrible at all.

the magnet on the drain plugs (diff and tranny) were both pretty clean. just a tiny bit of fine dust in the edges where magnet sets on the plug.

im not going to worry about it yet. if it wears out I have a couple spare 5 speeds that I hope have life in them still. or at least maybe scavenge parts from or try to get one serviced.

it shifts nice and crisp and smooth. no issues, no slop.

Stacy "there is scratches on that silver piece in there. I assume it is a selector or something that slides in that cylindrical piece?"

The common names for the silver piece is the shifting fork, the cylinder it controls is the slider and yes that is a brass Syncro.

Any one know the bolt size to attach the motor mount bracket to the block.
Guessing it is M10 and either 1.5 or 1.25. Since my block is 5 main, I suspect it is metric.

Hard to know with Datsun, any change goes ...