Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

greydog wrote: Thu Feb 01, 2018 12:25 pm I've fixed a few of them.
The ones I fixed were broken around the metal tube, up as far as the mounting screw hole.
The ones I fixed successfully had the entire bottom portion broken away.
I used polyester body filler (yup, bondo).
I cleaned up the knob, making sure I had the broken bakelite area clean and sound with no additional fractures or cracked portions remaining.
I sprayed silicone lube on a 4-40 hex head capscrew and screwed it into the metal liner so that the top of the capscrew head was flush with the body of the knob.
I mixed the filler and daubbed it on. It sorta slumps a bit so don't expect to build it up in one pass.
I used a 36 grit block to rough shape the bottom and square it up, then filled more as necessary.
I used a #11 Xacto to clean out the filler from the screw head and then removed the screw. I had to use a drill to clean out some bondo that had gotten under the screw head.
Once I was happy with the hole, I fastened the knob to short pc of round stock and chucked the round stock in a drill with the knob hanging down. Turn the drill on and sand with 220 gently while the drill spins the knob. It allowed me to sand the repair round and feather it to the knob body.
Once I was happy with the shape, I used some Testor's black enamel to paint the repaired area. It's nice and thick so worked pretty well.
Not a perfect color match to the knob body but it's at the back of the knob and not detectable once installed.

All the knobs I've redone had the function symbol or letter recessed in the surface of the knob. To redo them, I wash them in Dawn dish water with a toothbrush (great grease and oil remover). Then I use a cut down paint brush and Testors white paint to fill in the letter/symbol. Let it dry for a few minutes and then use a strip of tee shirt dampened with paint thinner to wipe away any paint from the surface of the knob. Be gentle and don't get the cloth too wet with thinner. The tee shirt works well as there is little nap to the fabric so it's pretty smooth.

Good luck.
Dan

greydog wrote: Fri Feb 02, 2018 5:00 pm Don't ask me what time it is unless you want to know how the clock works....
Dan

mraitch wrote: Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:47 pm Hope this helps a bit

The lighter clip is attached to the wire that runs through the top. The black bit (left & right) is attached to the cockpit behind the seat.

As to the 'cable (as shown is attached to the rear end, while the front is attached to the bow at the front with a small 'eyelet' screwed in to the cable)

As to how long or where to buy, no idea - you can probably estimate the length by threading some wire through the 'hole' remembering that it's purpose is to stop the side flapping.

There should be an additional area in the top through which aforesaid cable is threaded.

I imagine you could fabricate a 'cable' by using some braided wire (obviously much smaller ) and 'clamps' to form loops. You can get all this from Home Depot etc. So install the top, make one loop and attach at the front and with the top in place tighten up the cable and then clamp down the back end.

Actually, as I write this, this is the way I would go, absent the proper cable, which BTW can stretch.

HTH - good luck.

mraitch wrote: Sat Feb 10, 2018 6:20 pm I would imagine, if you forward the 'clip' picture, you should have NO problem in getting the bits. And it can be done AFTER everything is installed, so it shouldn't delay your installation.

Good luck!!.