Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

If I remember correctly, the difference between the flywheels is only the number of holes.

Thanks all. Now I need to find my R16 flywheel and determine which one I want to use.
Cheers!
Tim

What the primary and secondary resistance supposed to be on the coil of a 1969 2000?

For Electronic Ignition, 12 V coil: The primary winding resistance should be 0.84 to 1.02 ohms. This is
measured between the two small terminals on the coil. The secondary winding should be 8.2 to 12.4
kilo-ohms. This is measured between the contact where the big coil wire plugs into the coil and either
of the two small terminals.

Still looking for stock Roadster readings.

I got a reading of 1.8 ohm primary and 9.16 kOhm on the secondary for the stock coil just fyi. I think that's fair.

Hey everyone.
Probably been asked a million times and I could probably find It in the wiki section or use the search but here goes. Can you pull the engine by itself or does it have to be done wih the tranny attached? I o ly ask due to limited space and the lack of a cherry picker. Thanks.

Frisky311

My understanding is that it can be done, and my friend Tom has done it, but I think it is easier as a unit since you will have to pull the motor forward quite a bit to get it off the input shaft to the trans. Cherry pickers can be rented fairly reasonably if you can transport, and most cars with fold down rears seats can handle one. If you do pull the engine and trans, remember that on a 1600 the 4 speeds will leak oil out the back when the driveshaft is removed and the box tilted, so be prepared by taping it shut or putting a plastic bag on the back and holding things tight.

Would draining the tranny eliminate the oil leakage out the back or does it kind of pool there?

It would help, but if it is going to exit at the output shaft, why not let drain into a container and have a beer while waiting

Nissanman wrote:It would help, but if it is going to exit at the output shaft, why not let drain into a container and have a beer while waiting

Because 1 beer leads to another, and another... and another, and then another. Pretty soon you're wondering just what the hell you were doing there in the first place, and where's the wrench, bolts, socket, cat... what?

A few more beers later...

Fun though... until you realize kitty is inside the trans tunnel... and you've already buttoned it up...

If you have a 4speed, a "standard" aerosol can plastic lid is a tight fit over the output shaft hole. You may have to try a few, I think Gumout was the best fit . Add some duct tapeand you're good. Be careful not to drag it on the crossmember, it knocks the cap off, which is why I use LOTS of duct tape now. It is better to drain it first, and still use the cap and tape.

I put a long 1/2" eyebolt through the triple beam on my garage door opening with a metal plate to back it up on top and used the $40.00 Harbor Freight chain hoist. The motor stays still, you raise it up and just keep pushing the car back out from under it. It's less awkward than it sounds, I've put a few in and out by myself with no trouble. You do need a pretty level floor.

I use a 6 mil plastic bag and zip ties to seal off the end of the transmission. Works Great!

Frisky, motor and trans are a peiceOcake with the body removed!!

I use a ziplock bag with some rubber bands or a zip tie, then a rag folded several times and another zip tie to cushion the bag. Never had a leak, and just toss the stuff when you're done.

dbrick wrote:I put a long 1/2" eyebolt through the triple beam on my garage door opening with a metal plate to back it up on top and used the $40.00 Harbor Freight chain hoist. The motor stays still, you raise it up and just keep pushing the car back out from under it. It's less awkward than it sounds, I've put a few in and out by myself with no trouble. You do need a pretty level floor.

I used a chain hoist bolted to a main beam in the garage roof to lift my car body up when I did the frame off several years ago, then added saw horses in places to provide additional support with the frame out from under it. Never tried to install an engine/trans that way, but clearly it can be done!