Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

The re-build kit for all L series pumps, EXCLUDING the later model larger diameter pumps, will also service the Roadster pump.
I believe you can remove the longer arm and instal the shorter arm for Roadster use, however I can't vouch for that personally.

Thanks for the tips. As usually the case, i'm trying to get it all together for a run this weekend.

I'll make some calls about the L20 rebuild kits to see if I can track one down local.

I've spent the last few hours trying to figure out how to get the Diaphram off the Arm to see if I could put that on my old base. which looks like it would work I just can't figure out how to get the shaft twisted so it will pop out.

I also got the big whacking hammer out to try and punch out the shaft and put the smaller one on.

I've been driving it everyday for the last couple weeks and I've found that the more I drive it, the more I find little things that need to be done.

...more to come

From memory, with the diaphragm loose, just push down on the centre section and twist/turn the diaphragm.
It is a tab which engages in the slot at the end of the arm.

It might be safer to drill out the pivot

I'm rebuilding my brakes and bought ceramic pads from PBR before I took the brakes apart. The old pads look old but good- say about 80%. Just wondering what folks would advise about leaving the old ones and putting the PBRs on the shelf.

In a related question, the PBRs are slightly "fat" side to side and do not slide down the caliper. It looks like I would need to grind about 1/64 off an edge. I would think my table grinder would make quick work of it but is anyone sees stupidity in that action, please inform me.

I have heard of others having to grind the edges on the premium pads before. For that little bit of metal, a flat surface sander would probably do enough of a nice even job.
Regardless of how you do it, make sure it's even and burr free so that it slides in the caliper with a minimum of resistance. If too tight, a few heat/cool cycles may make it very difficult to get back apart down the road.

Rear spoiler. Ok I'm guilty, thinking about Cadillac tail lites, mini Cooper headlites, on and on and on, ( not gonna happen) but maybe disrupting the airflow out back to deflect the exhaust a bit more. Coffee can diffuser is a bit odd. Any experience, thoughts?

tranny sway and flywheels....

I am building a stroker over winter. I have a five speed tranny to use as well as the 2000 clutch bits and backing plate. Before I take my clutch and (SRL) flywheel to get balanced with my crank...

....can I assume that the flywheel from my 2000 motor and tranny with work on a stroked 1600 and five speed?

thanks
Tim

NO it won't necessarily work. The bolt pattern on the crank is different I think. U20 uses 12 bolts and the R16 crank uses 5 bolts.
So, it depends on your crank and flywheel choice.

notoptoy wrote:NO it won't necessarily work. The bolt pattern on the crank is different I think. U20 uses 12 bolts and the R16 crank uses 5 bolts.
So, it depends on your crank and flywheel choice.

Make that 12 and 6 bolts. if I remember correctly it will bolt on, but that leaves every other bolt hole empty. Somehow that seems to me that it might lead to a failure such as cracking.

I could have the other six holes machined into the H20 crank and use all 12.

Has anyone done this? Should I?

thanks!

oops, 6 bolts, correct!
Any reason why you wouldn't just use the R16 flywheel?
I did, so I hope there is no reason not too!! I also had the R16 flywheel lightened by about 1/2 the weight.
It seems to work OK, so far
Tom

tputland wrote:I could have the other six holes machined into the H20 crank and use all 12.

Has anyone done this? Should I?

thanks!

So that brings up a strength question. The H20 is probably a cast crank versus a forged crank for the U20? Anyone here on relative strength differences?

notoptoy wrote:oops, 6 bolts, correct!
Any reason why you wouldn't just use the R16 flywheel?
I did, so I hope there is no reason not too!! I also had the R16 flywheel lightened by about 1/2 the weight.
It seems to work OK, so far
Tom

I have an aluminum flywheel on my stroker. I notice I need to rev it just a bit more on 1st gear.

I guess I need to ask a deeper question about flywheels....

What is the difference between the two flywheels? Can they be identified visually?

Does it matter which one I use on a stroker?

I guess I assumed I needed to use the SRL flywheel with a five speed.

I revert back to an older signature:

Still clueless but always learning
tim

Other than the bolt pattern I don't know the difference. I have an h20 with the r16 flywheel (lightened), 5-speed transmission, u20 thick "spacer" and a "roadster" clutch ( I didn't order for An r16 or u20 a just roadster).
I have it all back together and it seems to work just fine together.