Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Welded 5th gear..



<img src="http://thumb16.webshots.net/t/58/758/3/ ... KhB_th.jpg" alt="2365500520101536403S600x600Q85">

Sorry I thought the pic would be bigger, have a look on my web page huge pic there...
hope this helps, this is easy to grind off to service tranny, I certainly wouldnt weld the nut to the shaft..

No worries guys, it will get back together. As for the welding, I found a couple of pics on VW sites that show what needs to be done. Thanks for the pic sunbeam but that is not showing the gear itself welded, just the jam nut. Brings up a question though, I see there is a "lock" washer holding the primary nut. Looking at my shaft ( ), I see no slot for it to register into, which would make it useless for me. Is this an upgrade or is a slot cut to make it work? Anyhow, I am going to use a combination of the suggestion brought up and see how it goes based on what I think will hold up, since there is no concensus on how to do it.

Mark

If you are concerned that the double nuts might back off, why not use the strongest locktite. I have to heat the stuff with a torch to loosen it!

Eric F wrote:[Each to their own, Brian. That's the beauty of sharing ideas and experiences on this forum. You are correct, spent the extra money and have 15 years of success to prove it. I am correct, spent less and have 25K+ miles to prove it. No matter what happens, I hope that Mark is able to get his car back together with all the combined knowledge and experience this forum is able to provide him!

I'll drink to that...
And yeah, locktite goes without saying. Just make sure it's only on the threads. A little goes a long way.

Well, this is a very interesting topic.

Putting the trans back together after getting the 5th gear welded.(Dean's price shot up!) My question now is the statement that the main nut should be torqued to ~25 ft/lbs and the backing nut to ~225 ft/lbs (or as close as I can get). The reason I ask is a service manual I have states to tighten the mainshaft nut to 144 ft/lbs, but this is for a single nut setup. I would think I would want to go 144 on the main and at least that for the jamb nut? Opinions?

Edit: I just looked thru an old Chilton (1972) shop manual and here is what it says,

"To tighten the mainshaft locknuts, tighten the front nut to 15-22 ft/lbs and the rear nut to 7-15 ft/lbs. Hold the rear nut and force the front nut against it to a torque of 217 ft/lbs."

Sound right?

Mark

datsunrides wrote:Putting the trans back together after getting the 5th gear welded.(Dean's price shot up!) My question now is the statement that the main nut should be torqued to ~25 ft/lbs and the backing nut to ~225 ft/lbs (or as close as I can get). The reason I ask is a service manual I have states to tighten the mainshaft nut to 144 ft/lbs, but this is for a single nut setup. I would think I would want to go 144 on the main and at least that for the jamb nut? Opinions?

Edit: I just looked thru an old Chilton (1972) shop manual and here is what it says,

"To tighten the mainshaft locknuts, tighten the front nut to 15-22 ft/lbs and the rear nut to 7-15 ft/lbs. Hold the rear nut and force the front nut against it to a torque of 217 ft/lbs."

Sound right?

Mark

Without seeing it in front of me, the first one makes more sense, will allow you to use a socket and torque wrench. If you are backing the front nut back onto the lock nut, how would you measure the force?.

Come on Dave, you use a euqrot wrench of course. Seriously, what I did was tighten the front nut to the 20 ft/lb spec and then tighten the rear nut to something close to 217 ft/lbs. (don't know exactly as my torque wrench gave up at 180 lbs, somehow I don't think they were designed to be used with a 4' cheater )

Mark