Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Ratios?
For 1984 &'85 the diesel truck 2wd 5 spd ratios were:
1st - 3.592:1
2nd - 2.057:1
3rd - 1.361:1
4th - 1.000:1
5th - 0.813:1

For a stroker or U20 the first gear might be a bit low. Depends on what you like I guess.
The OD ratio would be good for milage, and would make up for the smaller diameter tires that most seem to use.......

It will bolt up directly to the engine, but NOT to the frame! some slight massaging would be required there. Don't know how much as I used a 240SX back half......

http://ithaca.craigslist.org/pts/1178886707.html
Someone go buy this!!

OK Here's my info-

1. Stock head, valves, intake. Smog ports plugged.
2. U20 Crank, U20 Pistons, U20 rods. Crank has new keyways cut. Left nose intact. Used an old clutch throwout bearing and crank gear shims to take up the space between pulley and bolt.
3. ISKY DS99 Cam. The Isky website only lists DR99, so I assume it's close to that. I recieved the cam from a former racers collection of parts. intake 42-78, exhaust 78-42, lift .480, lash .028, 300 advertised, 254 @ .050
4. Valve Lash .028 per Isky recommendations.
5. Carburetors 1600 with 2 1/2 inch velocity stacks.
6. Carb jet size ?
7. Carb needle ?
8. Stock Ignition distributor recurved to non-smog.
9. Timing settings 20 btdc
10. Radiator is non-stock. Same size as 1600 with tap on top, 170' 240z thermostat. H20 water pump. Fan holes and spacer redrilled for H20 pulley. I cant get it to run above 170 degrees
11. I also have a lightened flywheel done my a local shop per the Bob Sharp manual. I brought him the diagram and he got it down to about 13 lbs. H20 Main, Rod, and Cam bearings from Motorpowerinc.com. Engine was put together by RB Motors in Santa Fe Springs per my specs.

Ron, what's the radiator from?

Any anyone interested on a group buy?
I've located a supplier and wants $220 plus shipping
Maybe I can get the guy to lower the price if there's a few of us buying.

Are these the correct specs for H20 crankshaft?

main journal 2.4780-2.4785, rod journal
2.0457-2.0462,

Yeah, but will he ship to various addresses for that same price?

I don't need a crank, but are the ones you found Nissan cranks or an aftermarket? Only reason I ask is people are starting to report some problems with "oem compatible" parts, mostly Chinese stuff. May be prudent to get one, have it checked out for balance , dimensions etc. and then move forward. Just my $.02

ppeters914 wrote:Yeah, but will he ship to various addresses for that same price?

I don't see why not
As long we get the price of the crank much lower.
He quoted me $40 shipped to me.
At this point, I'm ready to buy it for myself.

dbrick wrote:I don't need a crank, but are the ones you found Nissan cranks or an aftermarket? Only reason I ask is people are starting to report some problems with "oem compatible" parts, mostly Chinese stuff. May be prudent to get one, have it checked out for balance , dimensions etc. and then move forward. Just my $.02

This is good info
I didn't know there's chinese after market cranks
Infact, that never came across my mind that it wouldn't be OEM crank

Great
more unknowns
It's too far for me to verify any of this

I have a question about the H20 since I have one in my roadster. What can be expected from it? What is a good formula of parts to get the most from it ?

I only know that my "stock" H20 which is bored .020 over, and running stock 1600 Carbs has MONSTER Torque (when it was last running) and will chirp and spin the standard 4 speed (soon to be 5 speed) in first and second gear all day long. Heck a little clorox and you could look like a drag racer warming up the tires no problems!
Now is it fast? I don't remember, but it sure was fun to be able to do that at will, even if it never really did bite and accelerate.
I do THINK it was taching around 3000 RPM at 65-70 MPH (Car hasn't been running/driving in over 8 years - but soon ).

The 2 I've ridden in had monster torque, and no slouch at higher RPM. Depending on compression ratio and how much air you can get in and out they can make some good usable horsepower. Headwork and freeflowing exhaust bring big rewards when you increase the displacement 25% over what the head was designed to flow.

Hi all,

This is a little premature for the stroker poll but I wanted to show my progress so far.

I am building a 1970 R16 block using a 1968 U20 crankshaft and a 1966 SAE iron head.

The crankshaft has been shortened 1" and re-keyed.

I will use U20 rods and Federal Mogul H20 pistons.

I'm going to cut a stock oil pan and add some depth to give me about another quart of oil capacity and make an aluminum spacer to extend the U20 oil pump pickup (I don't even want to try to find and buy a Datsun 7 quart aluminum pan).

The head is getting big custom SI stainless valves (shown next to stock valves) and Comp Cams 988-8 springs, 743-8 retainers, and 601-8 locks:



I have a Cannon manifold (lots of welding and grinding to make it nice) and Italian 40 DCOEs from a European Alpha that even have a ported vacuum advance connection.

I'm going to use Stan's roller rockers and Isky DR-66 cam.

I designed and had made a custom harmonic balancer that will fit the non-emission R16 setup with no modifications (same belt location and seal diameter). The raised ring and 4 bolt holes on the front are just in case I want to add a trigger ring for a crank triggered ignition:









The block is machined (.020" over) and I'm sending the rotating assembly out for balancing next week.

Well that's it so far. I'll post again when I make some more progress.

Steve.

heimsoth wrote: The head is getting big custom SI stainless valves (shown next to stock valves) and Comp Cams 988-8 springs, 743-8 retainers, and 601-8 locks:

I designed and had made a custom harmonic balancer that will fit the non-emission R16 setup with no modifications (same belt location and seal diameter). The raised ring and 4 bolt holes on the front are just in case I want to add a trigger ring for a crank triggered ignition:

Can you please tell me more about these parts? I'm interested in buying some.

Thanks.

Curtis wrote:

heimsoth wrote: The head is getting big custom SI stainless valves (shown next to stock valves) and Comp Cams 988-8 springs, 743-8 retainers, and 601-8 locks:

I designed and had made a custom harmonic balancer that will fit the non-emission R16 setup with no modifications (same belt location and seal diameter). The raised ring and 4 bolt holes on the front are just in case I want to add a trigger ring for a crank triggered ignition:

Can you please tell me more about these parts? I'm interested in buying some.

Thanks.

First of all, let me say that I have not built the cylinder head with these valves yet. In the coming weeks, I am sending the head to a shop with a CNC head table to have the spring seats modified, the guides cut out for bronze inserts, and the ports roughed out for the new valves.

I have heard that several people have used "small block chevy" valves but was not satisfied with any off-the-shelf valve dimensions. After carefully mocking up, measuring, and CAD modeling the valve train, I determined the optimum valve stem height to maximize lift using the stock rocker shaft. Next, I consulted with my friend Gary Johnson of East Tennessee Race Prep (a very highly respected engine and race car builder) prior to ordering these valves and determined the maximum size valve head that we could comfortably fit in the combustion chamber.

The valves were ordered from http://www.sivalves.com/ for $30 each.

I provided the following order forms but I instructed SI to ignore my valve head profile (based on stock valves) and give me a profile consistant with a common high performance street application. Note that SI increased the exhaust valve margin to about .100". I think this is to withstand the higher temperatures the exhaust valve sees without cooling from the intake charge:





The balancer was made of mild steel at Godard Industrial Fabrication, Knoxville, TN. to my design on a CNC machine. I essentially kept the outer inertia ring identical in mass to the original and designed the inner hub from scratch. The one-off cost for this was $525 with tax. I was told a second unit would be considerably less since they already have done the program work. I would guess a small quantity could be made at $300-$400 each.

I had to send the parts to a harmonic balancer rebuilder, http://winslowmfg.net/. It was $105 including shipping to have the pieces bonded together.

I will be more than happy to share any other details with whoever may be interested but until my motor runs and proves successful, you'd have to trust my judgment and reasoning at this point.

Steve.