Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

DELETED

I think I saw in one of your posts that you use a painless wiring kit to integrate w/the SR20DE wiring harness. Do you completely replace the factory wiring for more reliable modern wiring? If so, what painless kit do you purchase? Will you detail that process as you go thru this install? Thx!

I think I saw in one of your posts that you use a painless wiring kit to integrate w/the SR20DE wiring harness. Do you completely replace the factory wiring for more reliable modern wiring? If so, what painless kit do you purchase? Will you detail that process as you go thru this install?

We have used the Painless Wiring kits as well as the EZ Wiring kits on our conversions. Right now, if I am replacing a chassis harness, I buy the EZ Wiring Mini-20 harness setup. For $130 you get a 20-fuse fuse box, and a pre-terminated (at the fuse box end) wiring harness with enough wire to wire the entire car, all you need to do is cut it to length and put new terminals on at the ends.

http://www.ezwiring.com/minitwenty.htm

I like to buy the wiring harness terminal kits from Dean at Fairlady Products, and that way I have correct plugs and new terminals for all of my connections.

http://www.datsunparts.com/Electrical

You will still need to save the plug-in lights for your turn signals from your old harness, but that is about all I keep out of the old setup. The rest is nice, new wiring.

Rewiring the car is no small project, but the EZ Wiring harness gets you a fantastic head start, the rest is just basic wiring, paying attention to details, and lots of work!

For what it’s worth, I will NOT be rewiring the car outlined in the Hybird How-To in the other thread, the wiring harness appears to be in very good condition, so I will be modifying the existing wiring in that car to suit the SR20DE swap. If the car was a 1965-1968 roadster, or I had seen evidence of previous repairs to the harness, then it would be a no-brainer, the car would have a new harness installed into it.

I will be detailing all the modifications that I do to the EFI wiring harness, plus how I integrate it into the roadster wiring though!

Michael
spriso.motorsports

spriso wrote:

I think I saw in one of your posts that you use a painless wiring kit to integrate w/the SR20DE wiring harness. Do you completely replace the factory wiring for more reliable modern wiring? If so, what painless kit do you purchase?

We have used the Painless Wiring kits as well as the EZ Wiring kits on our conversions. Right now, if I am replacing a chassis harness, I buy the EZ Wiring Mini-20 harness setup. For $130 you get a 20-fuse fuse box, and a pre-terminated (at the fuse box end) wiring harness with enough wire to wire the entire car, all you need to do is cut it to length and put new terminals on at the ends.

http://www.ezwiring.com/minitwenty.htm

I like to buy the wiring harness terminal kits from Dean at Fairlady Products, and that way I have correct plugs and new terminals for all of my connections.

http://www.datsunparts.com/Electrical

You will still need to save the plug-in lights for your turn signals from your old harness, but that is about all I keep out of the old setup. The rest is nice, new wiring.

Rewiring the car is no small project, but the EZ Wiring harness gets you a fantastic head start, the rest is just basic wiring, paying attention to details, and lots of work!

Michael
spriso.motorsports

What a great idea! What terminal crimpers do you use? I've been using a set of Champs (yeah, old school), but I've been meaning to get something that'll do a proper crimp.

What terminal crimpers do you use?

I use a set of bare terminal crimpers that I bought several years ago from Waytek Wire (an excellent source of automotive wiring supplies!)

http://www.waytekwire.com/

I like to crimp the terminal, and then put a touch of solder to make sure that it stays in place.... Yes, a good crimp should keep things happy, but I like to be double-sure that it is not going to come undone!

Michael

now I glanced over all the posts but my 2 questions are. with the SR20 what tranny are you using? Most of my friends with SR20's have them in their sentra's which are a FWD...

You mentioned that you guys are using the stock rear diff. would something like a S13/S14 rear end work? I'd assume you'd run into some issues with with the hubs/drum setup. can you simpily use a S13's rear end setup with the hubs and such or is their a lot of modifying that needs to be done.

I havent really torn into my 69 yet other than gutting it simpily because the shop I do all my work is still preaty full with my brothers 93 RX7 eninge swap, a celica all trac that needs a new motor, a 91 MR2 thats getting a new motor and my soon to be old MR2 thats going to be a drag car. right now I'm still torn between the KA swap vs the SR20 swap. either way I'd like to keep it NA but make it a nice track/summer car. Chances are I wont be starting the roadster until earily next year but I'd like to start getting info and parts ahead of time.

Currentily I'm in the process of finishing up my MR2 that I put a 99 solara V6 into....fun. I still need to finish up my motor mount so it doesnt interfier with the supercharger. install the supercharger and EMS as well as do a set of custom headers. realistically thats only going to take a few days to do but I would like to finish that before I start on the new project.

Also I know thier is tons of info out their but are their any good links you guys have for aftermarket parts and the like for both KA's and SR's? I'd like to do a mild buildup with the usuals cams/intake/header/exhaust deal.

now I glanced over all the posts but my 2 questions are. with the SR20 what tranny are you using?

On our SR swaps, we are using the JDM RWD SR20DE(T) engine and transmission, NOT the FWD version of the engine that is found in North America.

The transmission is the same RWD version that came with the RWD engine. There are three common versions of the manual transmission for the SR engine:

Normally aspirated 5-speed gear box (SR20DE): The SR20DE has the following gear ratios:

1st 3.321
2nd 1.902
3rd 1.308
4th 1
5th .838

The SR20DET 5-speed gear box is the same as the NA box, but has a .75 overdrive.

The S15 SR20DET came with a 6-speed gearbox, with the following ratios:

1st 3.626
2nd 2.2
3rd 1.541
4th 1.213
5th 1
6th 0.767

You mentioned that you guys are using the stock rear diff. would something like a S13/S14 rear end work?

As for your differential question, the S13/S14 rear end is a independent setup, and is much wider than a stock roadster. Of course, anything can be done, and there are cars out there that have the S13/S14 rear end under them.

Consider that an extensive project though, as you would have to build/modify the rear subframe, have custom CV axles made, and get the geometry correct!

Remember, the roadster is a very narrow car... just take a tape measure to the rear end of a roadster and compare it with nearly anything else on the street... consider a S13/S14 IRS conversion a major project!

Michael

I'm going through the rear end swap right now. The stock rear end is 47 inches from drum to drum. Many of the axles I found were close to 60 inches. The RX7 axle that I am using was 57 inches. I have narrowed it to 41 inches and with the offset on the wheels I will have an overall width of 60 inches in the rear. This is with the large JAPCO flares. I think the stock fenders couldn't handle more than 55 inches.

I was looking at the crossmember mods. One question comes to mind, don't know if I can describe what I'm thinking, but here goes...If you were to move the back of the sump guard back to line up with the edge of the cutout in the crossmember, weld it in place, and make the patch that is welded in wide enough to extend down over the sump guard then when the patch was welded in to cap over the cut out section, it could also be welded to the sump guard creating one piece to unitize the whole assembly. In cross section, looking from the pass side toward the drivers side the two pieces would look like a letter b with the sump guard being the square at the bottom of the letter and the patch for the back of the crossmember going from the bottom of the channel up to the top of the crossmember.

Just a thought, since you have a hunk of 2 inch steel going across, may as well use it to further tie the new into the old.

I don't know if this makes any sense, hard to describe in words.

Hi Dave,

I see what you are talking about, and yes, that would be cool.

However, I try to make the new crossmember cap one piece, and believe me, it is a hard enough shape to cut out and form from a single piece of metal, let alone add more material below it.

On a few cars that we have done, I have put the crossmember jacking point flush with the crossmember notch, but I thought it looked kind of funny (as it is so deep), so now I just put a little step in there, to my eyes it looks a little better.

My .02 Yen...

Thanks for your comments!