Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Make sure that the fuel power nozzles at the bottom of the carb are not sticking down (Full choke) especially since you are having to hold it. Check linkage for any sticking or binding.

Check the simple things first. I'd look at the carb linkage, confirm the throttle plates are closing fully and are not being held open by the choke or some misalignment. You can slightly cover the throat of each carb one at a time to see if it runs more easily on one than the other when doing the same thing carb to carb, which may mean it's getting air from some other place than through the carb/throttle plate, i.e. a vacuum leak. Spray carb cleaner around the intake gasket to locate. Use a unisyn or similar air flow tool to set carb balance.

Did you disconnect the throttle cable? I would look at that.

Seem to have found the leak. tightened up all int/exh nuts a little more. Starts, runs, idles good now.
Front carb was dumping fuel out of the overflow tube. Mechanical fuel pump. Took lid off of bowl, no sediment, ball stops air when blowing through it. Reassembled and problem has not returned yet.

Next will be timing and carb mixture/sync.

Also, the valve cover seems to have interference with the ARP washers and nuts. Very close, but touching on the rear one with the lift bracket.

Going to drive it as is for a bit. I have a new vc gasket and may use a file to give some relief on the head nuts when I remove it to re torque.

Thanks for all of your help

Confused on your interference issue. The washers are thinner than the VC gasket//
We do have thinner, smaller ODwashers if needed, but the larger washers distribute the load better.

The ARP nuts are smaller OD than the heads of the original headbolts, so not sure where you would have interference?

Also, you don't really need a washer on the lift stud since the lift is steel, but can use one if you like.

Be sure not to overtighten the VC- easy to crack them..


PM me a photo of the issue, just curious.

I'll post a pic tonight. Might be the nut flange....

It is because of the lift bracket.

Now i understand. Lift bracket goes over the washer. Washer goes on the head.

You can take off the rad cap to eliminate any coolant pressure and swap it without much concern. Then torque it to 50+ and re-torque all the head studs in the standard pattern.

Or just leave as-is, can't see much of an issue either way//

Really? Bracket on top of washer?

I thought the bracket would spread the load out more than the washer... Guess not.

Thanks again for your help.

Many people eliminate the lift bracket altogether. I took both the front and rear one out and just use straps for engine removal, which shouldn’t be needed too often. Much cleaner and they are not in the way, in my opinion.
Linda

Slackline wrote: ↑Sun Oct 04, 2020 12:53 pm Really? Bracket on top of washer?

I thought the bracket would spread the load out more than the washer... Guess not.

Thanks again for your help.

You bet.


The headbolt washers are hardened so they resist deformation and spread the load fairly evenly. The lift brackets are just mild steel, nothing special about them.


As Linda said, they really aren't very necessary, lots of places to lift from// glad you got it back together

Cheers!

Linda wrote: ↑Sun Oct 04, 2020 1:29 pm Many people eliminate the lift bracket altogether. I took both the front and rear one out and just use straps for engine removal, which shouldn’t be needed too often. Much cleaner and they are not in the way, in my opinion.
Linda

Strange they are there in the first place. I guess they were needed upon original assembly in Japan and where not taken off after the fact? A premonition that came to fruition many many times for owners over the last 55 years, ha!