Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

C.Costine wrote: ↑Tue Mar 09, 2021 6:36 pm Is the powder coater dipping it or at least spraying it with phosphoric acid to neutralize the residual rust before coating as "eye" suggested on Friday? Coating rust with plastic protects it from drying out enabling it to grow 24-7.

We did not go into the cleaning process but they did say that they are going to sand blast it it first and block off the holes i indicated. When I go over to pull the steering bolts I will ask! Thanks for all the info

Finally got the carb setup I wanted! They are 37 kiehin. Super stoked to get it dialed in. It might be a hot sec though as I need to figure out runner length and fab the actual intake manifold.

Round slides or flat Slides? Be prepared to play with emulsion tubes and different needles! You got a do it 4 times, You’ll have fun. You may have to fiddle with the accelerator pedal leverage too cause those carbs pull so much vacuum! Subscribed !

Yeah that throttle cable is going to be way off! I have a couple of ideas cooking for the throttle cable. Maybe a 3D printed piece to enlargethe throttle wheel. The carbs where bench tested on a ford zetec engine. Hopefully the carbs will be pretty close. They are CV type carb Hopefully they are going to be a simple/no fuss setup. I really like the idea of a 123 dizzy as I can dial in the curve better and not have to deal with a vacuum advance.

Nismou doesn't mention it but he has a bit of experience running bike carbs on a roadster you can read about it here

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7180&hilit=mikuni

i would caution that If you're not doing anything to the engine those Kiehin are probably going to be dogs below 4000rpm on a 1600 , 37s would be perfect for a hot 2l but anything above 32s will suck from a drivability standpoint

Finally got a devo built roadster body dolly! With the help of devo I was able to track it down. This will speed the bodywork/paint by alot!

Yikes! So I was playing around with engine trying to get it ready to go back on the frame. I pulled the oil pan to check the bottom end and replace the leaking oil pan gasket. I found with help from peeps timing chain rollers! Will pull the timing cover and see the extent of the damage.

Dang. Not a good find for sure. I hope for you that there is no collateral damage.

Got the new timing bits for buttoning up the engine. Gotta do some studying of the chilton manual to see steps on the install

I don't know R engines but I do understand there are two different timing gear sets and it is important to make sure they match... that's all I know...

If you got the set, you should be fine. They are pretty straight forward to install, and go on exactly like a V-8 Chevy, line up the two dots when installing. I believe the difference Greg refers too is one of metric vs. SAE cam gear.
Tom

I think I found out what killed the chain. The tensioner was not bolted tight to the block. In the pic you can see the gap. The piston was siezed in the body of the tensioner body. It could not even come close to touching the chain

It looks like the foot is upside down.

It appears to me that the threads in the block are stripped out. The retainer has not allowed the bolt to back out.

I family got the frame back from the powdercoater! Its going to be so satisfying to put my tasty new suspension bits on a clean frame!