Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Well, the car is currently home for a bit while I shake out any final issues. Have a bunch of things to still sort out...but I've put about 100 miles on the swap.

My goal in having the swap completed were:

1) Modern engine Reliability
2) 5spd
3) More power than the r16

Well...Its too soon to determine the reliability after only a few days..but the 5spd is completely smooth and the increase in power over the r16 (for that matter over the U20) is very apparent.

When I first picked up the car, the new drivetrain had been connected to the old, anemic exhaust system. Though the car had lots of power, the expected torque in 1st/2nd (under 2000RPM) was lower than expected. The engine just seemed a bit too choked.

So I dropped the car of at my local exhaust fabricator and had them fit in a 2 inch free-flow exhaist system. What a HUGE difference. Feels like a gain of 10HP+. The new exhaust is very loud (actually too load), but the engine just revs so much better with the new exhaust.

Power...Oh my...Lots of power. Don't need anymore..With the new exhaust, the car is like a mini rocket....

Well...Here are a few shots from the engine bay ...Will take many more photos in the near future.

Very cool Dan! Keep the stock wheels and hubs and let the dropped civics step up and kill them sleeper .

Very cool and congrats on yet another cool car...

Where did you find the overflow tank?

Why the alternator on the driver's side?

Don't tell too many people that a stock modern motor makes more and more useable power, it may start a thing...TR

The overflow was fabricated by DGR from a stainless cylinder from Bimba Manufacturing (not Bimbo)..

http://www.bimba.com

The alternator is from a Suzuki Justy and fits nicely. I'm assuming it is on the drivers side as the induction tube and radiator fan probably made things a bit crowded on the passenger side.

The car is currently rides on 175/70r14 wide white walls...Not a perfect match for the new drivetrain. Driving the car this evening (after the new exhaust was installed) was kinda of like going roller skating for the first time. Extremely fun, but you still need to keep your balance and not fall on your butt.

As Alvin mentioned.. still have to take it slow until I have all the right equipment (tires, suspension)....

subaru justy.

it would be really cool if you could get wide whites in an R-compound.

sjd

These folks carry a higher performance WWW radial, I think (DiamondBack 500?)
Diamond Back Classics
http://www.widewhitewalltires.com/

I almost ordered from them when I got my WWWs for my '48 Dodge but went with Coker. Next time around I'll probably go with DBC.

Also, as for the loud exhaust, you may want to try putting a glasspack between the engine and the muffler. About a $20 fix without having to pay for and swap out a new muffler.

Doh!!...yes, Subaru Justy!

The Wide Whites the car is currently riding on are Radial R tires. But with the power the car puts down, it needs a wider, sport tire. When driving last night I hit a curve (not driving too agressively) in 2nd gear, I lost traction of the rear..Yikes!

Needs more rubber on the road...

NO...not radial R's...R compounds... like autocross extra sticky tires. Kuhmo 710's and hoosiers and stuff...

wider tires do nothing (except make break away really peaky), it's all compound.

sjd

I think I saw drag slicks with WWW on the DBC page. Don't think I'd put something like that on a daily driver, though.

How much should one expect a shop to charge to do this type swap--if you don't mind saying.

thx!

The prices vary greatly...But, a full service swap is not cheap.

It depend an how much work you expect the shop to handle vs. how much you will complete yourself. Even if your are speaking about a turn-key swap, there is still great variation depending on how far you go with the swap (hidden wiring, powder coating, re-plating, aluminum radiator, new gauges etc).

It will take at least 150hrs for the swap to be completed. Based on an hourly rate (you choose how much per hour) you can calculate a base cost for the swap. Plus throw in the cost of parts...it will give you a rough idea of the cost.

really depends on the shop. My friends doing it so hes not charging me mutch, since hes doing it in his spare time and is working on his Rx2 at the same time. That miata swap looked pretty nice considering it didnt need special mounts. But you live neer VAFB, theres lots of metal fab shops in the area. Im sure you could get the mounts made yourself for cheap.

Dan the Car looks great!! We are going to have to take them out and let them run together!!

How are you going to change that oil filter?? Do you need to remove the tire and lift the car to do it, we just put a remote oil filter on mine to make it easier!!

Lou Smaldino
66-1600 (KA24DE)

Just a quick update..

THE SWAP IS DONE!!!!

I can finally say that the actual swap is now complete and the roadster is fully back on the road.

A few additional modification changes were needed to finsih up the job, but now everything is complete. Here are some of the final issues and how they were solved:

1) The cooling system was running a bit high too high @ 200-215ish. I used a Fluidyne all aluminum radiator (for a del sol) .The radiator was working great, but the electric fan was not turning on till about 210 degrees. Originally the electric fan tapped into the stock ECU for turn-on. It was supposed to be turning on at 194, but it varied between 200-210. I ended up having an adjustible temperature sender installed which allows you to set the temp at which the fan will turn on. The car now runs at a rock solid 180 degrees.

2) Exhaust system- I had to have the exhaust done (then redone) several times. The stock KA engine (in a 240sx) has an exhaust system which is 2+ inches in diameter. It was very tough getting everything to fit( without lots of exhaust banging around) The first and second install both had leaky flex pipes, and therefore the system was done three times.

3) Gas Tank - The original fuel pump used was a 280Zx external unit which was mounted behind the passenger seat under the car. It worked but was SO LOUD. Plus I had a lot some serious gas leaks coming from the tank. The tank was refurbished and an intank fuel pump was installed. Now everything is nice, quiet and works perfectly.

4) Timing - Originally the timing was off abit and the slightest touch of the throttle reved the engine from 800RPM to 1700RPM. Then about 5 seonds later the computer would reset down to 800RPM. Turns out a 'reset' of the ECU was needed and all was solved. Sorry, don't know the technical details of what was done (but hats off to DGR for solving it)

5) While the car was at DGR, Dan G. rebuilt the whole heating system and it works fantastic.

6) While Dan G. was at it he also installed a full set of Classic Instruments gauges. I paid alot of $$ for the gauges, but honestly the quality of the gauges themselves were not very good. Three of the six gauges had problems.

7) At low RPMs the Oil pressure gauge would drop real low. at 800 RPM it showed low, but at 1000K rpm it showed real solid pressure. Again ended up being a faulty gauge. Ran the system for over 30 minutes with an alternate gauge and it never went below 11 LBS at idle.

Well that is it for now..Next steps include a new set of Superlites w/ Falken RT-615s. A new CD system will soon be installed & a few other fun projects.

Dan

Thanks for the update, but you left out the most important thing...How did you like driving it????