Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hi David, I don't think the "8" is a B. There's a very faint "stylish" upside down "B" just behind the 2 if you zoom in on the photo. Maybe someone knows the Font they used or where the "B" usually is stamped?
JohnO

That is it John! It was a B cam... I didn't look that closely, but the Nissan factory stamp is often unevenly applied and hard to read. This cam has definitely been reground at some point, so the lift and duration may be different. I don't know enough about the witchcraft to recognize any significance to the additional stamping. Usually the B cam has only that. A single letter "B".

Cool nonetheless!

dw

Thanks! BTW Just ordered a new mechanical fuel pump from Ebay. Seems to be half the price of DatsunParts.com $59 vs $148. Too big a difference to ignore. Hope its OK. Ebay doesn't have the pump mount spacer but DatsunParts has it.

Also looking at the fan mount problem on mine you pointed out with the elongated holes. Is this fixable with the clutch fan replacement spacer block on DatsunParts for $39.99 ? they also recommend a 4 blade fan as well. In that department, do you know if the water pump is original? No over-heating allowed!!

That is an A cam with numbers 8 and 2 but the A is visible.

Ross
sports imports

Ross and I have just discussed. We now have decided this is in fact most likely probably conclusively a B cam that has been reground. We think...

Lots of great discussion! I have to get on here more often!!

jfilipenko wrote:Lots of great discussion! I have to get on here more often!!

Many an hour has been spent on this forum by many different members...

So I've been busy ordering parts to get my FairLady ready for the road!

I've ordered a new water pump from Sports Imports as well as some rubber bumper bits for the doors and hood, a new thermostat, rad hoses and associated gaskets along with a fuel pump spacer. Also getting a new 4 blade fan. Had a great chat with Ross. He has 20x20 floor pan pieces I can order when I get to fixing mine.

I have a mechanical fuel pump coming from EBay (hope its OK..supposed to be new)

My EastCoastRoadster EI distributor is on the way along with their chrome coil and new red wires

Ashley Alliance sales in Edmonton has a couple of 67 roadsters parting out and I've asked them about a few bits and pieces of trim items

I'm going to fix the water pump pulley problem. I've attached a picture showing the elongated bolt holes which caused the Knocking sound that tricked David way back when. This pulley is hard to get so I'm going to drill new holes midway between the existing using the spacer as a guide. If I do it right, I'll have a weight saving pulley!

This weekend sees the fuel system flushed and evaluated. Worst case, the tank comes off for boiling - ha.

That's All
JohnO

Looks like you are making some great progress John, I think I am due for a bit of an update on my project as well as I have been making some good progress, and have quite the pile of new parts waiting to go on the car.

-Jeremy

Quick update on my progress over the last few weeks.

On the most part I have been busy continuing to tear down the car, removing undercoat & paint especially in areas that are a bit suspect. Luckily everything I have found has been pretty minor. I know the reception will be somewhat split here but I elected to fill the jack holes, I will also be filling the trim holes and removing the trim and side badges. Other than a whole lot of scraping, grinding, wire wheeling, cutting and welding I have been collecting parts for when things are ready to go back together (a ways off yet!).

Most of the suspension parts came from DatsunParts.com, the R32 GTR brake upgrade came from new-datsun-parts.com, the fenders hood and center grille support came from datsunroadster.com (Rallye), the modified RX7 rear axle came from John Wallum in Washington. The current exchange rate easily added 20% overall cost to these parts, I estimate I have spend $1,800 on just exchange (AKA - nothing!) at this point. Makes me wish I was still living in the US when it comes to ordering parts!

Anyhow the plan for the next couple of weeks is to continue fixing the few rust issues with the body, I will then finish out the interior with seam sealer paint etc, same for the trunk. Then I have a lot of little dings to straighten out of the rear quarters and doors. The inner front fenders will get new paint and undercoating as well. The hood, fenders and center grille have to have the 45 year old primer removed then some fresh primer applied.

Well the fenders are off I am going to go through all the wiring /plumbing in the engine bay as access is much easier with the fenders out of the way.

Well I think that's it for now, better get back to work!!

-Jeremy

Jeremy, you've been busy!
My tank was bone dry and I've blown/flushed it with Methyl Hydrate. got a little rust so I think I'm going to take it off. Where did you take yours for treatment? I'm thinking Calgary radiator.

I found cracks in my trunk floor from the weight of the rear fuel tank supports - This happens often I've discovered on the forum. I see your trunk floor is solid. There is an easy fix involving relocating the rear support to the frame - I'm going to look at that. The cracks needs welding though.

It looks like you know how - my last welding was in Gr.9 shop. What gear do you use?
Regards
JohnO

Hi John, sorry to hear about your trunk floor - that's a bit of a bummer. I use my trusty Lincoln SP-140 MIG welder for 99% of my welding tasks. Where are the cracks? Around the U-shaped channel that the tank straps connect to front and rear? Post a picture if you can.

I took my fuel tank to Crossroads Radiator off of Barlow and Centre Ave. I paid around $350 - but I think David mentioned that he has had the job done locally for less - you may want to check with him first.

-Jeremy

Hi Jeremy
I've attached pictures of the Drivers side crack trunk floor which is minor but the passenger side trunk floor crack is much more serious. I'll have to do something about them. Options include:

1) Weld up the cracks, and perhaps add a brace to the existing rear tank attachment points. I've read about it but don't know what it looks like...
2) Weld up the cracks and re-mount the attachment to the frame per the attached picture from the fuel tank forum (not my car).
3) Ignore the cracks, cover it with carpet but still do the tank supports because maybe one day I get a new body......

#2 is what I will do but that same picture shows that there are also some unused bolt holes in the frame nearby (I have them too) on both the left and right that could be used for a bolt-on solution. I can make these I think. And I will look at re-learning to weld - why not, it's only been 40 years. And Jeremy, your examples are inspiring!

Anybody have some advice??

I've also attached a photo of the junk in the tank. I thought it was rust but it is more like peeling skin - touch it and it crumbles. Also found a plastic 3/4 inch cap that someone lost. When I was blowing the Methyl hydrate out of the tank, the line kept plugging off so there's enough trouble with this tank to warrant taking it off and refurbishing it. It seems pretty solid - held several PSI in my flushing exercise.

My sending unit looks OK, was "told" it works. Could use some cleaning as there is some precipitate on it. they're not cheap so I'm going to be careful with it. Brake cleaner and a soft toothbrush?

I'm thinking of getting the radiator looked at - just because I like preventative maintenance. And on Calgary Radiator's website they say they also do fuel tanks.
JohnO

I have 2 of these seats that the previous owner threw in when I bought the car. They were brand new in 2011 and one's still in a box. They appear to be "no-name" or at least nothing on them that shows up on Google. They cost the guy $700.

Any thoughts from anyone about actually using them? My first thought was to NOT use them but my seats don't have headrests and need re-upholstering....

Is this Roadster Heresy?

I can Kijiji these out the door pretty easily I think.

JohnO

Regarding the cracking floor, I would do the relocate while your doing all this to the car. It is a matter of time before the floor cracks from the weight of the gas tank. I would go ahead and reinforce it or relocate the straps.