Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Yes
Linda

Got the new bearing pressed on, but the shim got destroyed.
Oil seal numbers in WIKI appear to be pinion seals, so I am getting either Nissan or an alt. for the axle seal.
Size is 29x45x7 mm Linda

How many shims were on the car? I've seen anything from 1 to 3 shims. You will want to make sure you match the number of shims each side had. Who pressed your new collars on?

The machinist did the work, the set up is a hassle. The shim was pretty trashed to begin with.
Thanks to another member, NOS 11429 seal works avail from NAPA, or SKF 11429 at 29x45x8mm. Wiki updates sent.
Linda

I went through this last spring. Nothing whatsoever fun about this job on the car but the end result was worth the effort.

Skyman wrote:How many shims were on the car? I've seen anything from 1 to 3 shims. You will want to make sure you match the number of shims each side had. Who pressed your new collars on?

I love it. More axle shim discussion. This has been driving me crazy.

1. Shims often disintegrate when, you pull the axles. There's no known source. Some suggest making new ones from shim stock but, sounds difficult.
2. Assuming you have shims, who has added shims and successfully measured end play? I measured with a dial indicator using various numbers of shims and got the same measurement regardless of how many shims I used.

I'm convinced I was measuring play in the caged bearing. There's plenty of room for the bearing between the inner axle seal and the axle flange. Unless the bearing contacts the backing plate, I don't see how the shim is going to give the bearing any more room. I think if you have about 0.0010" of end play (what I measured on 2 different cars before disassembly), you're probably ok.

Well i don't understand why the shim is needed exactly either, something to do with the size of the bearing housing vs the size of the bearing (16mm). But I have been told it is necessary so I will be making a shim out of shim stock.
Shim stock available from Grainger ("for the ones who get it done"....LOL) in .003 and .005 steel in small quantities. http://www.grainger.com/product/PRECISI ... ?$smthumb$
If someone has a grease catcher lying around that they could trace and scan to size then we could all have a template to make shims with. Otherwise tracing the housing end will have to do.

Linda

If the "preload" on the bearing is too high (smaller gap than bearing race), it might deform the bearing race (shorten life) or bend the bearing cap (leak).

If its close, I would not be afraid to use several gaskets or a thicker material gasket.

Maybe Willy can cut a bunch out with his new laser.

preload what preload... it's a ball bearing , preload is for adjustable tapered bearings

likely the shims has to do with keeping the axle end away from the side gear shaft or position of the brake drum
did you wheel bearing grease the bearing ?

Linda wrote:Well i don't understand why the shim is needed exactly either, something to do with the size of the bearing housing vs the size of the bearing (16mm). But I have been told it is necessary so I will be making a shim out of shim stock.
Shim stock available from Grainger ("for the ones who get it done"....LOL) in .003 and .005 steel in small quantities. http://www.grainger.com/product/PRECISI ... ?$smthumb$
If someone has a grease catcher lying around that they could trace and scan to size then we could all have a template to make shims with. Otherwise tracing the housing end will have to do.

Linda

Hey Linda,
You actually going to have a roadster to DRIVE to Shasta in 2015!?
As for the mysterious axle shim Part # 43036-04100.
I too would like a definitive explanation of its use from our tech gurus.
Also how do you determine how many to use?
What are we "adjusting" with these shims.?
As to your Grainger stock it is OK
I have a NOS shim and it measures .003" thick. The parts book does not show various thicknesses.
If you are real nice to me in 2015 I would send you the shim IF you made 100's of copies for all the 311s folks.
(OH NO, another BALL JOINT venture!!).
Your EX boyfriend from the PNW.,
Ted

redroadster wrote:preload what preload... it's a ball bearing , preload is for adjustable tapered bearings

likely the shims has to do with keeping the axle end away from the side gear shaft or position of the brake drum
did you wheel bearing grease the bearing ?

Yes, bearing "preload" is usually used to describe the initial pressure applied to a tapered bearing.

One possibility for the shims is to adjust the clamping force on the outer race......just a guess....as it's been years since I took a roadster axle apart.

If the shims are to allow clearance with the side gear shaft, than too few would be putting a preload on the rear axle bearing as the axle is pushing on the inter race....but what keeps the axle bearing from walking into the mounting so the axle will contact the side gear shaft?

More shims would adjust the backing plate toward the brake drum......Too type "A" for me to believe that's there use.....you would also need shims to go between the axle and the drum to complete the adjustability.

I DO NOT KNOW THE CORRECT PURPOSE OF THE SHIMS.

Just to get very little end play of the axle shafts and to prevent preload on the outer bearing race just like Phil said.

I used to replace the bearing and collar in 10-15 min. after pulling the axle ...piece of cake
take a heavy canvas cloth 1sq ft with a hole in the center to put the axle threw .
on a concrete floor have a 3-4" round block , or thick pipe cut square to support the axle hub and not damage the studs
With a descent sized hammer & safety googles hit the outer bearing race to brake it 3-4 blows usually
the canvas is to slow down the race flying .
with the outer race gone and bearings gone slide the brakes off the axle
cut through 2/3 to 3/4 of the collar by grinding a flat or a cut off wheel while the axle is in a vise
grind a notch in the collar to use a air chisel to push the collar off and same for the inner race .
reinstall the brakes ,tap the bearing in place on the block.
for the collar a heavy 2" pipe with a old collar or some piece similar welded to it used as a slide hammer after heating the collar lightly bang it till it bottoms out.

I still have tools from my Lathe operating days so I used my Depth mic and measured the bearing pocket that was machined in the axle's hub, the one I happened to measure was .005-.006" less than the 16MM bearing thickness, which make perfect sense to me, that way during production of the axle hub, the bearing pocket could be machined with a tolerance that was less than but not greater than the 16mm depth, so the .003" shims x 2 between the hub and backing plate just made up the difference. If the bearing pockets were deeper than 16mm then a spacer behind the bearing would have been needed for the backing plate to secure it...Bill

Sorry Ted, too busy to take on the shim project. But you are retired so I nominate you. Make a tracing and post.
And yes I hope to drive Solvang but if not I'll drive one of your " somebody else did the work" Roadsters.....
Linda