Hey guys, sorry that I neglected this thread for a while.
my aim for this year is to start the engine, mounted in the car, with the standard ECU.
So my coolant system is ready to cool.
I build all parts of aluminum, a Flange for In- and Outlet, an Overflow tank, 90° tube with third connection to Overflow tank.
I elimated the mechanical waterpump to get space for the Turbo.
So I used a Davies Craig EWP115 electrical Waterpump for the waterflow.
When I will change the ECU from original to Megasquirt I wanna use a Map with PWM-Out for regulate the pump speed.
To regulate the warm up without little or no speed of the waterpump I installed a Thermostat, which is normally used in the Lada Niva.
If this system wouldn´t cool the rotary down on traffic or under hard track conditions I bought a SPAL Fan
Only thing which is missed is a fan shroud which will come sometimes
The Turbo needs Oil Feed, Water Feed, Oil return and water return.
So I ordered some special made stainless steel lines with teflon inlay at a industry hydraulic firm.
Water feed comes from Inlet flange
Oil Feed comes from front plate
Water return goes to upper side of the radiator
Oil return goes to front plate/oil pan
I installed the alternator 180° turned in the front of the engine so it runs left instead of right originally.
Put it produces AC-Current which will transformed in DC so there shouldn´t be a problem.
I used a 460x10 belt to connect it to the crankshaft. very small
Also I build some parts for tensioning the belt of the alternator.
Another thing I changed is the oilcooler connection.
Originally its at the top and on the side.
Caused by the place I want to install the oilcooler there is a problem between the top connection and the frame.
So I cut the connection at the top and welded also on the side.
Now there is no problem between the oillines and the Frame.
At the moment I have to plane some weldet flanges and to hard solder my Oil return Flange which is made from copper and steel.
This is engine bay without alternator and Turbo. You can see the water In-/Outlet flange ant the Lada thermostat
This is my selfmade "tension jack" for the alternator
Here you can see the Oil return line incl. fange to turbo (made of copper - beta version)
Another shot of the tube from turbo to intercooler which is normally underneath the right fender
Last but not least a pic from above
The Year goes by and I told you that I wanna start the engine this year. And it WILL start this year
What I want to do before fire it up was to get the turbo hot side disassembled. But my "cold" torch couldn´t get so much power in this cast iron housing. So I decided to bring the turbo to the machine shop of my univeristy. They have oxy-acetylene burners which have a much more powerfull flame.
I headet it up for 30 seconds and could easy get the housing of. This is what I found:
unfortunately I have no good picture of the turbine wheel before blasting. It looked abominably
But here you can see how it looks now!
- I know that this is not the best for the efficiency of the turbo, but it´s a turbo which was developed in the 70s. Which efficiency?! - When the car is complete und runs a year or two I want to swap to a GT3582R or a more efficient turbocharger, so no problem about this at the moment
The headshield was very carbonized. I only cleaned it up. I think the prolem is the "piston Ring"
(picture is after cleaning it from coking)
Because of the size of the turbocharger Mazda originally used a twinscroll turbo with a flapper door inside the manifold. In low rpm´s, when the exhaust volume is low the door closes the smaller inlet of the turbo to get higher gas speed into the turbine.
I can´t use this manifold caused by space or better no space in the roadster. So I cant use the full potential of the twinnscroll system.
So I decided to get some mill work on the inlet of the turbine like some do on cylinder heads. Not as perfect as they, but I think better then original
At Last:
Last WE I connected all wires and want to crank the engine. After minimum 3h of wiring and searching in diagrams I found the one wire which I missed the whole time before, but it was this one which connected the ignitorswitch to the battery
After that, it works ! I tried it without gas only for a checkup... and it WORKS!!
So on Friday I want to fill it with gas and give it a chance
I will make a clip for you