Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I didn't get the ECU fan output to work yet. I had the ECU fitted with Nistune board and installed Nistunes S14A code with fan controls. Frankly, I'm struggling a bit with a fundamental understanding of how Nistune's software and hardware all work together. If tried some on the fly changes to idle speed and such and I'm not getting the expected results. I'm sure it's a lack of understanding on my part at this time. The software is a bit unintuitive in regards to base bin and address files. I'll get it, but it's certainly not as straightforward as HP tuners or Tunercat which is where I have all of my past ECU reflashing experience.

I have water leaks everywhere on all of the old coolant hoses under the intake manifold, so I'll start a PN search for the correct molded hoses and get fresh clamps.

Regards,
Steve

Gary,

I'm part of the way there on the fan. I am able to turn the fan on and off via the ECU by forcing the fan output in Nistune. That means I am wired to the correct fan control pin on the ECU. Need to monkey with the On/Off temps in Nistune and sort out what to do with the AC input now that the AC relay is no longer part of the equation. I also don't have the VSS hooked up yet. Seems both the AC relay and VSS play in to fan on/off.

I did get the fuel pump relay sorted out yesterday. I was using pin 106 which is shown in the S15 wiring diagram. Mine is actually an S14a Japan Kouki for which no FSM and pinout has ever been found. Turns out my ECU actually uses pin 104. Sort of stumbled onto that on the Nistune forum so I swapped to 104 and ta daa, the Fuel pump works as intended.

Need to start working on VSS next. The ECU uses vehicle speed (VSS) all over the place. It effects idle (IAAC),boost solenoid control, and VVT solenoid, among others. Problem is the analog transmission VSS signal was originally first sent to the gauge cluster (called a combination meter). The combination meter cleaned up the signal into a true square wave, then routed the square wave back to the ECM. I'm thinking I can do similar by routing VSS to my classic instruments Speedo box. There looks to be a pulsed output on the CI box. Probably a long shot bul we'll give her a try.

Very cool, These swaps take so much work to do, but the end product is amazing.

Alex,

Yes indeed! Hours and hours of mindless surfing to get little tid bits of information. Then, more hours to try to implement, troubleshoot,debug,etc. Fortunately I'm under no time constraint so I keep plugging away and some day the car will be as perfect as I can make it.

Regards,
Steve

Gary,

I do have the ECM controlled fan relay working. Fan comes on at 95 deg C and shuts off at 93 Deg C. I do not have these limits "Programable" yet. The Aussi boys at Nistune are working on that part.

Regards,
Steve

Nice work Steve. where are you located? keep the updates and pictures coming

Thanks,

Getting good clean wiring runs through new fuses and relays is kicking my butt right now. Ive started, removed, and restarted about 3 times now.

I like the hammer tone. I'll have to leverage that for my car.

Finally got a good calibrated VSS input to both the speedo and the ECM. It took 2 SN74 boxes since the speedo seems to be 16000 PPM and the ECU is 2000 PPM (I think). Any who, my speedo now matches MPH readout in Nistune.

Sent a crapload of chrome to Paul's Chrome on Saturday.

Still cleaning up wiring but it's getting better. Going to start headlights, parlking lights, and horn next.

Hunting for black Miata seats to recover.

I'll shoot some pics of the dash and console with boost & WB gauges when (if) I get back home.

Regards,
Steve

Dash and Console mostly assembled. All gauges functional now except fuel level. I finally have the heater hoses routed from the SR20DET to the heater core. It's not elegant but not terribly gheto either. Tail and Headlight wiring well underway as well. I was able to score a pair of Miata leather seats locally for $75 (within 10 miles of my house!!) Sweet

Keep Plugging!

Regards,
Steve

Pretty!
Great choice on the steering wheel. What gauges are in the console?

Steve,

You are moving along on the swap. I did some research on a comment you make about the VCT using among
other imputs a speed signal. I found a site in Australia that makes a little box that converts the speed signal
from the speed sensor for a usable signal to the ECU. This speed signal interface basically takes place of the
JDM Silvia speedometer speed output signal to the ECU, so the VCT solenoid will engage. I am using Autometer
gauges and have calibrated my speedo and it works fine, but the VCT is not engaging because it is not seeing
a speed imput from the Autometer speedo. The guy at PLMS Developments is looking into this. I will update
as I get info. I know that you sorted all of that out, but this may help others who are using a S14, S15, engine,
My car runs well without the VCT (Variable Cam Timing), but from my research it helps the lower end torque.
The site is called PLMS Development. They also make cables and software for running Nissan Consult and have
Nistune stuff available to interface with a laptop. Love that dash and steering wheel.

Alvin,

The Prototipo wheel just seems to look right in a roadster. Console gauges are Speedhut Wideband and Boost with peak recall. They don't match the Classic Instruments stuff perfectly but they're pretty close.


Regards,
Steve

Nice! Have you guys looked into JWT/Calum/Enthalpy for running the VTC? It's a must-have on the VTC engine

Alvin,

I did not look into those ECU's. Seems most people use Tunerpro with Calum ECU. I did not see an xdf file out there for the S14a SR20DET. I put a Nistune RT board in my ECU and loaded up Nistune software. I have done some poking around and they do have the VVT tables mapped out. Right now, I'm focused on getting this thing driveable so I havent really screwed with even trying to tune anything yet. When I get started tuning, Im probably just going to bump up the injectors and see if I can get a little more than 8# of boost. Apparently the T28 turbo should be just fine up to 10 or 12 # of boost. That should kick the original 220HP up by about 20 or 30.

All in threory of course
Regards,
Steve