Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Wow, I echo exactly what James said! Although medical M is more likely to calm one down than alcohol! I work in an ER, remember? Ha! Great advice for sure! Sometimes these things happen for a reason, and you never know who you're gonna meet because of stuff like this! Many a new Roadster friend has been made from car struggles that were either my own, or that I was helping someone with. Patience!

Also, credit where credit due... Think you guys are right on the stuff to look at first before jumping to the head gasket conclusion. See, even after 27 years I'm always learning!

YEAH!!! I FINALLY GOT THE TOWER OFF! JUST MORE HEAT, MORE BANGING UP AND DOWN, MORE PB BLASTER, AND IT FINALLY GAVE! Now all I need is the top piece for the tower since mine is shot. I'll have to redo the threads on the studs since they're pretty beat up now.
I think I'll take out the radiator while I'm at it and have it professionally cleaned. I don't like the way you can't see down inside it on these cars.
Anyway, feeling much better now that I got the tower off without destroying it.
--Ed

might be cheaper, and in the long run more effective, to just have a three core rad made.
just my .02
tim

cocoaed wrote:YEAH!!! I FINALLY GOT THE TOWER OFF! JUST MORE HEAT, MORE BANGING UP AND DOWN, MORE PB BLASTER, AND IT FINALLY GAVE! Now all I need is the top piece for the tower since mine is shot. I'll have to redo the threads on the studs since they're pretty beat up now.
I think I'll take out the radiator while I'm at it and have it professionally cleaned. I don't like the way you can't see down inside it on these cars.
Anyway, feeling much better now that I got the tower off without destroying it.
--Ed

Test passed... Roadster owner now...

It's just a rite of passage. You can helicoil the head if in doubt. Once you clean up the holes and reassemble with antisieze and a ground wire, the tower won't get stuck for the next 40 years, studs are metric, but available as is the top (Sid) who may have studs.. Get an estimate on the radiator before having it done, a replacement 3 core may a better alternative, about $350.00 from one vendor.
You need to get the cooling system 100% in Florida. You could get an Champion aluminum,for much less, opinions vary as to how well the fit, but I had one that worked great, fit with a little work.

I have the top plate in the garage, but I am not sure about the studs. Conratulations on one of the rites of passage of owning a 1600!

spl310 wrote:I have the top plate in the garage, but I am not sure about the studs. Conratulations on one of the rites of passage of owning a 1600!

Can I buy the top plate from ya? I think I can clean up the threads on the studs with a tap and dye set. I sent u a private msg with my address. I can send u payment via Paypal. Let me know. Thanks everyone! You guys are great!

Dean has studs and gaskets for $22.xx

Sure. I will pm you.

spl310 wrote:Sure. I will pm you.

I tried to send u 2 private messages with my address and phone but, I don't know if they went through. It says they are in "outbox" but not "sent". Not sure. Haven't gotten a pm from u that I'm aware. Still getting used to this site

--Ed

The PM's will stay in the outbox until the receiver opens them.
It has nothing to do with whether or not it was sent, if it's in the outbox, it was sent.

I was offline until this morning. That is why I did not get them until now!

Dang notoptoy, you are up early! We need to plan a get together with you Robert Auclaire and any other Florida roadster nuts one day...

We do! Only I need to get my Roadster down to FL first! It's still in NC where I visit if from time to time!

I am always up for a get together. Tom (notoptoy), you can even drive my car.

Fill car up to appropriate levels - "burp" radiator hoses. Drive - if you lose significant coolant after a 10 minute drive then almost certainly a head gasket. The entire system is sealed - so likely the thermostat won't make a difference.
As above - replacing head gasket is certainly a do-it-yourself project - just need a basic set of wrenches, torque wrench, screwdrivers etc. Nothing special.
If you get the head milled, make sure they do it in small passes rather than take the whole thing off in one pass.
Also, when removing the bolts (presuming bolts rather than studs) ESPECIALLY on the front driver side - actually tighten the bolts about 1/2 a flat before taking it off - this breaks the likely rust bond at the base of the bolt and minimises breakage. Suggest that you also replace bolts with studs - allows for better torquing and minimises thread stripping in the block.
FWIW