Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

jamesw wrote:Well guys - getting back on topic - I think my wheels are too big or have the wrong offset for the front
Any suggestions from the wheel-heads out there? Should I swap the fronts (now have +12) for some +30 offset? That will bring me in by 18mm...

Other suggestions (good ones) are to get the car aligned and get some negative camber to correct for the suspension drop.

Cheers
James

I don't like the look of +30 wheels, so I don't think that's a option. LOL

Option 1: Set the negative camber
Option 2: Roll the fenders
Option 3: New or machined hubs with a different off set.
Option 4: Change A-Arms

I would try option 1 first. The car looks too low to me. How much travel do you have before the tie rod hits the frame?

I'm going to try option 1 and option 5 (get taller springs).

Cheers
James

-another option would be to run a lower profile tire and/or a narrower width
Going from the the 195/55-series to a 195/50 series would give another 1/2" of clearance!

Are these the"regular" comp springs?
do you have any pics of the car all 4 wheels on the ground?

ps more static camber will not help judging by how much the tire sticks out past the fender, any pics of that?

When the wheel is at full lock, that is when the worst rubbage will occur.

Thanks for the advice Alvin.

Well I'm also working on Option 6 - which is to lower the back of my car back down to a reasonable height in hopes of leveling it out a bit. So I got one of the mono-leafs installed tonight. What a b***h that is btw. But I got one done.

Alvin, the tires and even the wheels stick out enough that I just don't know. I'd say w/ the 195's I'm running they only stick out a few mm past the rim. See a few pages back in this post for a straight down shot.

Once I get both of the mono-leafs installed (w/ 1" lowering blocks) and all four wheels back on the ground I'll get some more pix.

Cheers
James

james i'll wait for pics, it does look cool though I am excited for you!
lowering the back still doesn't help front clearance
If you have access to a machinist, tell them to take 10mm off the mounting pad, this will bring the wheel inward, are you okay with mis-matching wheels?

i still think the 55-series on this wheel size/ride height is too much tire up front, try the 50, dial in some camber and it should clear
if that still doesn't work, the +25 and +20 wheel have the same lip and better fitment.

make the springs work! i think one of the sexiest parts of the roadster is that front fender flare...so don't rub too hard or that pretty lip will be marred

I have 50s on the same wheels and they seem to fit on my daily driver (but my springs are not that low)...they are actually on my 67.5 resto now. There is certainly plenty of meat on the rear of these wheels to remove a few mm to move the rims in, but as you know you will have to modify the hole even more to fit over the hub. Now that I've seen yours I may have a few mm taken off the rear just to be safe. Thanks for keeping us informed about this wheel option James.



v/r
Buddy

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I finished putting in the mono-leafs tonight. You can see a comparison shot of my re-arched stock leafs vs the mono-leafs. Exact same height - meaning the spring rate on the monoleafs is MUCH less. I really like them btw, I took her for a spirited drive after the install to "settle me - er I mean them down."

Here are some pictures of the rear fender gap, the stance, etc. Better but still a little too low in front for my taste. But VERY close.

Cheers
James

One more just for fun

is that with the lowering blocks installed?

I'd put your stock front springs back on to match the rear height

are the front springs, regular or "super" comp springs?

I don't know if it's because the front is so low, but the back in that configuration looks too high for my tastes. thanks for the comparison of the stock (though re-arched) to the new mono leafs, it's a nice reference, do you have any more shots?

For a street car, (at least around here where potholes and speed bumps abound) the front looks a bit too low. It is tough to gauge the rear with the front that low. Personally, I like a taller sidewall, but I know that is not what most of the folks on here like...

Yes - the lowering blocks are installed. They basically make the springs the same 'thickness' as the stock springs. Ride height in back has dropped about an inch which to me is perfect.

Ride height in front is too low (sorry Alvin ) I have ordered some of Mike Youngs springs which are taller but with 860 lb/in rate which seems right to me.

I'll post some more photos Tom but not sure how useful since they are not 'stock' rears vs. mono-leaf.

Cheers
James

jamesw wrote:Yes - the lowering blocks are installed. They basically make the springs the same 'thickness' as the stock springs. Ride height in back has dropped about an inch which to me is perfect.

Ride height in front is too low (sorry Alvin ) I have ordered some of Mike Youngs springs which are taller but with 860 lb/in rate which seems right to me.

I'll post some more photos Tom but not sure how useful since they are not 'stock' rears vs. mono-leaf.

Cheers
James

Let me know if your looking to sell the comp springs you have on now.

Front ride height is perfect w/ the Mike Young comp springs. Back is still a bit high w/ the mono-leafs. They come w/ a 1" lowering block that makes the spring/block combo the exact same thickness as the stock spring "stackup." I am investigating using a 2" block instead - but that means I need to get longer U-bolts, etc.

Cheers
James

Longer U-bolts are not a problem or expensive to have made at a spring shop. Don't waste your time trying to find them on the internet... I had no success in finding the proper (stock) bolt thickness in the size I needed, and I looked A LOT.