New Brake Lines-- Spriso Motorsports Style, a Tutorial

[Tomakze]

Any chance we could get an update? <puppy dog face>

[23yrRebuild]

Ditto that! Updates Please.

[Tomakze]

I am actually in the middle of swapping the brakes over to the Spriso kit, and we are waiting on the brake lines! I have the calipers and rotors on and ready to go, but I want to run the brake lines in the Spriso way! If it isn't too much trouble, please post an update! Even just a general description would probably get me going! Thanks!!!

[Blinds04]

Hope Michael doesn't mind but searching the web I came accross his pics.
Just wanted to share them since they helped me a ton. If you want
me to take them down, Michael, please let me know and I will. Such AWESOME work!

[sfdaugherty]

Michael:

I've heard that using stainless steel can be a challenge. What material are you using for your lines (SS, steel or cunifer)?

I've also seen an Eastwood flaring tool that is supposed to be great but costs about $250. Are you using any special tools for bending or flaring?

Shannon

[spriso]

Hi Shannon,

Yes, working with stainless is not fun, and we have only done a few projects with it.

I prefer to use standard 5-foot sticks of 3/16" brake line that you can buy at any auto parts store, and bend them to suit the application. They are cheap, and if you mess up, it is not that big of a deal.

Since we build so many brake lines, and many times have serious time into making them fit perfectly, I wanted a flairing tool that would give me consistent, leak-free, flares. I stepped up and bought a Mastercool kit that does a wide variety of fittings:



This is not an inexpensive kit, but again, with the number of lines that I build, I could justify the expense.

I would love to try one of Eastwood's new hydraulic flairing tools, but again, the Mastercool kit is filling the need and there are always more tools to buy!

For tubing benders-- I have quite a few different ones that I use depending on the radius of the bend I am trying to make. Eastwood has a good selection. And sometimes I don't use a tool at all, I just clamp a piece of tubing in the vice and wrap the brake line around it to get the radius I am looking for.

Brake lines are not difficult to build, but you do have a good vision of what you want, be able to visualize bends in space (as is can get confusing really fast-- again, a plus for using the cheaper new steel brake lines!)

Hope that answers your questions.

Michael

[fj20spl311]

I have the eastwood kit and forming pliers.
I have not had a chance to use the kit except to try one, but the forming pliers are a must have!

You can bend that last little bit on the fly, you can now get one from Harbor Freight for $10 I have had very good luck with HF benders....

[spriso]

One other trick that I use every time we build lines, is a way to stabilize the line without distorting it, especially if you are trying to put a bend near an end.

I have a long, pocket scribe tool that I use to put into the end of the tubing to hold it while I make the bends. It looks a lot like this:



You don't want to use something short as it can cause a kink in the hard line, nor do you want something too fat as it can distort the end of the tube.

I have some of the Eastwood forming pliers which are great, but be careful using them as it is easy to kink the tubing (which is never acceptable!)

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool.html

Michael

[aspitfire]

is there an updated thread showing the rest of the line routing?

[aspitfire]

guess not lol

[spriso]

The rest of the routing is posted a few posts up:








Every time we build a set we make slight improvements-- but this should give you a good idea of the routing.

Michael

[Curtis]

....

First, let us take a look at a typical un-restored 67.5 and later engine compartment:



A thing of beauty, isn't it? Hmmm. I did not think so either.

......

So I'm a bit confused. This picture seems to be of a 68 and newer. Near as I can tell the 67.5 was a one off on the brake setup since it does not seem to have the S brake switch. Is this correct?

[spriso]

So I'm a bit confused. This picture seems to be of a 68 and newer. Near as I can tell the 67.5 was a one off on the brake setup since it does not seem to have the S brake switch. Is this correct?

Yes, you are correct-- I was just trying to illustrate a later car with the brake pocket, and all the cross-over tubes for the brake system.

Michael

[Curtis]

So I'm a bit confused. This picture seems to be of a 68 and newer. Near as I can tell the 67.5 was a one off on the brake setup since it does not seem to have the S brake switch. Is this correct?

Yes, you are correct-- I was just trying to illustrate a later car with the brake pocket, and all the cross-over tubes for the brake system.

Michael

Thanks, I'm thinking of doing this on my 67.

[Curtis]

.....



Every time we build a set we make slight improvements-- but this should give you a good idea of the routing.

Michael

Can you explain what is going on in this photo? I see a coupler on the back of the wheel well. Thanks.