Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

3rd time was the charm! After removing & reinstalling the Mikuni's for 3 times due to coolant leak originating from intake manifold, I finally succeeded!. Thanks to Premo for rebuilding and giving me tips on the proper way of installing the manifold. Thanks to Aidan for stopping by and synching my carbs. Thanks to Will for giving me the tip on the best way of installing the heat shield. Here are what I learn from this project. When torquing the Solex manifold, torqued the bottom ones first. When installing the heat shield w/ a header installed, jack up the car and tighten the nut by the firewall from underneath (thanks again Will). Lastly, lots of patience!!

Nice.

3rd time was the charm! After removing & reinstalling the Mikuni's for 3 times due to coolant leak originating from intake manifold, I finally succeeded!. Thanks to Premo for rebuilding and giving me tips on the proper way of installing the manifold. Thanks to Aidan for stopping by and synching my carbs. Thanks to Will for giving me the tip on the best way of installing the heat shield. Here are what I learn from this project. When torquing the Solex manifold, torqued the bottom ones first. When installing the heat shield w/ a header installed, jack up the car and tighten the nut by the firewall from underneath (thanks again Will). Lastly, lots of patience!!

I just started my car after installing the Solexes last weekend. Guess where I had a coolant leak? Exactly. Carbs are coming off again this weekend to install a new gasket with sealant around the coolant ports (as David Premo recommended). The heatshield was indeed a pain. I was able to get the nuts on from the top. The one by the firewall I got by reaching BEHIND the header. It still took quite a while and a few choice words after dropping washers and nuts about 10 times. My arms looked like I was attacked by rabid cat too.

Balancing and tuning is next.

Shannon

Shannon,

Make sure you torque the bottom intake manifold nuts first. I tried reaching behind the header to install the other heat shield nut but my fingers are not long enough to reach it, hence did it from the bottom. But that damn heat shield was pretty challenging. Good luck and you'll be rewarded with an addicting growling sound from the Mikunis.

Jerry

It's not much, but it's better than the nothing that I usually do TO/FOR it. New oil cap arrived today (even though I have much more important things I should be doing TO/FOR.)

leonhart wrote:It's not much, but it's better than the nothing that I usually do TO/FOR it. New oil cap arrived today (even though I have much more important things I should be doing TO/FOR.)

New oil caps are very important. Nice job

[youtube][/youtube]So this just happened!!! Still need to sort a fuel delivery issue and tune her up. I am sure I will find more issues but getting so close now.

The fan pulley center blew out of my original alternator so I temporarily installed an old stock Mitsubishi to the stock mount to use until I modified a mount to accept the new Dixie 35 amp alternator.

itsa68 wrote:The fan pulley center blew out of my original alternator so I temporarily installed an old stock Mitsubishi to the stock mount to use until I modified a mount to accept the new Dixie 35 amp alternator.

temp alt.jpg

new alt.jpg

Dixie 35?

got speaker box off finally! and put it right back in after cleaning it up . it's original and works fine so it's still bumping music..

Dixie alternator 35 amp.
Make sure you change the connector spades to match the stock alternator.
Stock alternator connector shown below Dixie Alt Info
Modified stock mount
1) Attach washer to front
2) Cut mount and attach washer to rear and grind the washer face to obtain length (used grinder cutting disc)

So it is a standard 80mm mount. This the same as the 510 alternator I have here in a box. I already modified my bracket for this. I have the newer IR alternator on mine.

This is good replacement for the stock alternator if you want to modify the bracket and you don't care if it is stock.

Curtis:

My stock 1600 mount was the 98mm length style. Because of the longer length and setback of its front face, I had to weld on a washer to the front face and then remove material from the rear to maintain the 80mm and alternator pulley centerline relative to my crank and water pump pulleys.

I also could have gone for a 50amp interchange one wire internal regulator alternator the local shop had, but decided to stay with the original regulator.
(Didn't write down that 50amp interchange for future considerations)

Cheers
Ray B.

itsa68 wrote:Curtis:

My stock 1600 mount was the 98mm length style. Because of the longer length and setback of its front face, I had to weld on a washer to the front face and then remove material from the rear to maintain the 80mm and alternator pulley centerline relative to my crank and water pump pulleys.

I also could have gone for a 50amp interchange one wire internal regulator alternator the local shop had, but decided to stay with the original regulator.
(Didn't write down that 50amp interchange for future considerations)

Cheers
Ray B.

I'm talking about the alternators. Most of the alternators seem to have a standard 80mm mounting with between the ears. I didn't need the washer in front, alternator lines up almost perfect.

Cyclewrks wrote:[youtube][/youtube]So this just happened!!! Still need to sort a fuel delivery issue and tune her up. I am sure I will find more issues but getting so close now.

Woo hoo! You'll love the sound!