Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

On the front chassis rail, where the steering box and idler mount, there should be two pairs of threaded holes on the top side of the member, about 6" from the inside edge of the side chassis rails.
Probably hidden by dirt/grease/paint?

The holes on the frame rail are not where the horns go. They mount to brackets on the radiator core supports. You should see them through the grill opening.

Sid has it. There should be a pair of brackets at an angle (if memory serves). The holes Graham is refering to are for an oil cooler (again if memory serves).

E

Ahhhh so!

Well we have a winner, and a reason why I couldn't find them. The previous owner did not use the original radiator supports for the engine swap.

As an FYI, most 1500s do not have the holes for the cooler. I think that the 2 seaters may, but the 3 seaters don't. On the horn mounts, they are not anything special. Heck some self drilling bolts and you could mount them darned near anywhere...

DanR wrote:..... the original radiator supports ....

The horn mounts aren't actually on the stock radiator supports, right?

Tim

The mounts are on the supports that are welded to the inner fenders - not the crossbars that the radiator bolts onto.

On a swap, if the intake pipe is routed in front of the radiator, the horn mounts are/may be, trimmed off of the core/rail support/inner fender. In your case Dan, your radiator tanks common to the crossflow radiator, is where the horn mounts should be, likely PO trimmed them off. I like your seats and door panels ALOT!
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Pics are great arent they!

maybe we got this figured out already but,,,

That helps out a lot, thanks

Anyone know the size of the Aluminum door/sill plate screws or have a picture of them? I seemed to have lost the bag with those in there. Any info will help! This is the last piece of the puzzle i need to finish off the doors.

Hi Everyone,
It's been awhile since I've requested help from the Oracle (311's) but here goes...

Cochecita left me stranded for the first time in 9 years, sputter sputter, lose power and then wouldn't restart. I tried replacing the fuel filter and I got it to start and run, but only for about 30 seconds. I cleared all the fuel lines and then tried disconnecting it at the carb to check for vacumn...nothing was reaching the carbs. I went all the way back to the output on the fuel pump and could get a little gas pumping.

anyway, I decided to try and get a new fuel pump, which was easier said than done if you you are in a hurry to get back on the road.

What they finally sent me home with was from a 70' 510 and the lever to the jack shaft is 3 times as long. I'm worried it's going to mess something up internally if I slide that thing in.

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Thanks everyone for your help.

Eddie

How about just rebuilding your pump ?
You can get a rebuild kit from vendors or i think , not sure, a L20 rebuild kit works also. See the Rallye site for a discussion on the different pumps.
Rebuildsble ones can be done without removing it from the car. You need to keep the spacer block regardless.
Hope that helps.
I would not use the pump you got till you get more info on whether it can be interchanged.

Linda

I would not use that pump! Get the right one or rebuild yours.
Did you blow out the line back to the tank? The fuel pump can't pump (and would appear bad) if the line to it were clogged.
Clear out the pick-up and try again - if you haven't already.