Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

notoptoy wrote: ↑Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:10 pm I would suspect a plugged line from the tank to the pump, or a clogged filter, followed by cracked or old rubber hoses anywhere in the line or a leak in the fuel filter. Really silly question, and please don’t take offense, but how much gas is in the tank?

weird, I typed a reply similar to this, and dont see it...

so x2, check to make sure the fuel line isnt clogged, but I had a similar situation where the fuel pump worked and then it didnt work so now I have an electric pump on mine.

I can use my vacuum pump to pull gas into the filter bowl from the tank. That should be no problem. The tank has been cleaned and sealed on the inside and I checked to make sure the pickup was clear prior to installing. The fuel lines to the filter bowl are brand new. The filter element, o-ring, and bowl gasket are brand new. The fuel line to the pump is new as well.

My guess - the pump was never good. My portable gas tank that I’ve been using prior to this has been at the same height as the carbs. I routed the fuel line to the pump and then it followed the stock lines after the pump to the carbs. I used starting fluid to get the motor running and that may have been enough, with gravity and the vacuum created with the running of the engine, to pull the gas through the system.

I think I have a spare electric fuel pump laying around when I was testing issues with my truck, I’ll splice into the line and see if it pumps to the carbs. I’ll bypass the mechanical fuel pump completely and eventually get the block out plate.

Thanks for the advice. I’ll report what happens. Hopefully the next post had a video of me driving down the road.

Definitely sounds like the pump is the problem. Where can you get the block off plate from?

Agreed, you did a great job eliminating all the other variables.

I’ve seen the block out plates on eBay before. I see then now listed for 240’s. Are the same size as the roadster fuel pump?

Anyway. Bypassed the mechanical fuel pump, left it in the block for now. Spliced in the electric fuel pump and wired it up. Turned the key to on and the filter bowl filled up. Turn the key to start and after a few seconds on cranking the engine came to life. After checking for anything wrong I took it for a ride down the road.

So I have a few issues, so far. I think the timing is off. I believe I heard some preignition when under load at low rpms. It also dieseled a little after I shut it off. Another issue to dive into is that my temp, oil pressure, and fuel gauges don’t seem to be working correctly. Temp gauge is pegged when engine is cold. Pressure gauge is pegged too. Fuel gauge is empty. I know the fuel sender is working correctly. It tested correct with my ohm meter. Any ideas?

Enjoy the drive with me...

Temp gauge pegged and screwy gauge readings sounds like a grounding issue. Start with the small voltage regulator under the dash near the steering column. Remove it, clean the mount and put it back in place and see if you have any change. I'd then look to the wire that goes to the temp sender on the side of the block. Make sure it is connected and not grounded anywhere. You may have a faulty gauge regulator.

Oh... Right now I have the voltage regulator floating in air. I'll mount it and see what I get. Are there different voltage regulators for early and late year roadsters? I have a few to choose from in my collection. Is there a way to check them with a ohm meter?

mshort07 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 23, 2019 4:06 pm I’ve seen the block out plates on eBay before. I see then now listed for 240’s. Are the same size as the roadster fuel pump?

Anyway. Bypassed the mechanical fuel pump, left it in the block for now. Spliced in the electric fuel pump and wired it up. Turned the key to on and the filter bowl filled up. Turn the key to start and after a few seconds on cranking the engine came to life. After checking for anything wrong I took it for a ride down the road.

So I have a few issues, so far. I think the timing is off. I believe I heard some preignition when under load at low rpms. It also dieseled a little after I shut it off. Another issue to dive into is that my temp, oil pressure, and fuel gauges don’t seem to be working correctly. Temp gauge is pegged when engine is cold. Pressure gauge is pegged too. Fuel gauge is empty. I know the fuel sender is working correctly. It tested correct with my ohm meter. Any ideas?

Enjoy the drive with me...

Block off plate: I actually used the SB Chevy plate on my 1600 and cut to fit. The Ford BB looks like a better fit outta the box.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=512&p=2517&hilit=ch ... late#p2517

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BIG-BLOCK-FORD ... 1daa55cbaf

For the Instrument voltage regulator:

http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... VoltRegFix

Grounding the regulator housing should help immensely.

mshort07 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 23, 2019 4:06 pm I’ve seen the block out plates on eBay before. I see then now listed for 240’s. Are the same size as the roadster fuel pump?

Looks like JT was paying attention to our inquiries and has several for sale at a good price. I'll be buying one from him as I try to support our vendors VS random others.

Glad to see the car out on the road, should be all downhill from here! Car looks fantastic, nice work

Congrats! Looking forward to checking it out in person one day

s15to311 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2019 1:31 pm Congrats! Looking forward to checking it out in person one day

S15to311 have you been to Richmond Cars and Coffee?

http://www.carsandcoffeerichmond.com/

It’s usually a amazing collection of cars when the weather’s good. I’m planning on bringing the car there in the spring.

mshort07 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2019 5:59 pm

s15to311 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2019 1:31 pm Congrats! Looking forward to checking it out in person one day

S15to311 have you been to Richmond Cars and Coffee?

http://www.carsandcoffeerichmond.com/

It’s usually a amazing collection of cars when the weather’s good. I’m planning on bringing the car there in the spring.

I have, that sounds good hopefully I will see you out there in the spring! I am hoping to have all the bugs worked out of mine as well by then

Not the most productive thanksgiving day weekend. Found an exhaust leak in the exhaust manifold. Contemplated taking it all apart to repair it. Don’t know how I missed it when I assembled it years ago. I decide to try some “liquid metal” before tearing parts off the engine. It says it’s good to 2400 degrees and meant for cracks in manifolds and other things, so I gave it a try. It’s curing now.

Checked the timing. It checks out just right so now I have to figure out the noise I hear. It sounds like a diesel nock. It happens at low rpms when the engine’s under load. I thought it might have been pre-ignition. Happens when Accelerating hard. It does not sound like an actual engine nock. What could that be?

Also, when the engine’s hot the carbs do not want to return to low idle without a quick tap on the accelerator or pushing down on the throttle linkage. Suggestions?

Do you have the bracket/ brace meant for the exhaust manifold? It is supposed to help with cracking.
JB Weld might work.
Linda