Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Yesterday, I removed my center radio console to remove the ugly aftermarket tape deck radio (because I don't use it). The wiring behind the radio was a rat's nest. Total crap. I blame Dave Brick.

Anywho, I'm installing water temp and voltage gauges from Autometer, and wanted to just completely redesign the center console, since one of the PO's hacked it up anyway. The plastic trim piece on my steering column is cracked and looks like sh!t, plus is sags. My idea is to remove all of that, and place the ignition switch into a custom center console. I'm also removing the fan speed switch, since it doesn't work anyway. This is what I have so far:

I totally agree the vertical center stack never appealed to me. I was going to follow up as this photo but went a different way. Still like this pic from a Japanese SR and way he modded it.

I want to replace my 2 row radiator with a three row. I have a SRL with the U 20. I am putting a 7 blade fan on with an aluminum spacer machined to replace the fan clutch. Does anyone know if there is enough clearance with the three row radiator? Also do I need a fan shroud for better cooling or is it just a safety issue?

thanks, Adrian

A fan shroud will definitely provide better cooling, it is not just for safety.

Acegigurn wrote:I want to replace my 2 row radiator with a three row. I have a SRL with the U 20. I am putting a 7 blade fan on with an aluminum spacer machined to replace the fan clutch. Does anyone know if there is enough clearance with the three row radiator? Also do I need a fan shroud for better cooling or is it just a safety issue?

thanks, Adrian

If you desire to rev the engine with a solid 7 blade fan, it's going to be noisy

Adrian

I have a 3row radiator with electric fan all ready attasched, let me know where you are located
and we can work out a deal if you like


nissantoy

I'm not really interested in the electric fan. I have one now and it only seems to work when the care is off. Also causes the radiator to leak due to the way its mounted on it. Small leak but still a leak. I've already invested in the correct 7 blade fan and the aluminum spacer. Thanks for the offer.

Finished designing a clamshell steering column trim piece sans ignition switch. Built-in turn signal wire management and a small raised block for my aftermarket horn button.

Mainer311 wrote:Finished designing a clamshell steering column trim piece sans ignition switch. Built-in turn signal wire management and a small raised block for my aftermarket horn button.

Are you going to make it with a 3D printer?

garth wrote:

Mainer311 wrote:Finished designing a clamshell steering column trim piece sans ignition switch. Built-in turn signal wire management and a small raised block for my aftermarket horn button.

Are you going to make it with a 3D printer?

Yes indeed. A Fortis 250. It will be ABS, and then I'll hit it with MEK to melt the layers together. A quick sanding and some flat black paint.

Acegigurn wrote:I'm not really interested in the electric fan. I have one now and it only seems to work when the care is off. Also causes the radiator to leak due to the way its mounted on it. Small leak but still a leak. I've already invested in the correct 7 blade fan and the aluminum spacer. Thanks for the offer.

I tried the electric fan route and it was less than optimal. I ended up using a flex fan which cools fine at low speed and thins out at high rpm so it does not roar. This picture used individual spacers before I used a solid spacer.

https://www.flex-a-lite.com/belt-driven ... x-fan.html

Could a 3D printer make a four blade fan?

JohnnyMac wrote:Could a 3D printer make a four blade fan?

I wouldn't trust it. They make some cool stuff, but for anything dynamic/structural, 3D printing isn't really your friend. I suppose you could make one with DMLS, but it would be ungodly expensive.

Just finished sanding my steering column trim and center console. All 3D printed out of ABS. I test fit everything and it's right on.

Working on getting some mik 40's ready to bolt onto my stroker. Right now I am running some 240Z SU's on a hogged out R16 intake. Dave Premo hooked me up with the carbs and I bought a Pierce manifold from JAM Engineering. I took some idea's from shifty's install. JT made me the center linkage setup which is pretty sweet. Not surprising though. I bought a 1600 intake and stripped the linkage bits off of it such as the idle stop tab, cable drum, ball connector and the bracket for the throttle cable. I purchased a new 3/8" rod and new eye bolts from McMaster-Carr. The holes I used on the intake had to be drilled out and tapped to insert the new eye bolts into. I think it will work well. I need to find plugs for where the bolts are in the back. Also found some air cleaners that I will use.
Looking forward to getting them installed and driving the snot out of the car.

S