Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

[attachment=0]IMAG0433[1].jpg[/attachment]started to clean all rust off passenger floor and rust reform it - amazing how much rust for a CA car.

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Curtis wrote:So how about some more pics and details of the spinner?

Made from 2 discarded 4 legged engine hoists.
Bought the tubes at Everett Steel for $38 and cut them to length.
Bought 6 new 250 lbs locking urethane wheels at the new local Tractor Supply $18 ea.
Bought a hole saw blade to cut the post for the pipe $32.
Filled the welder bottle $36.
2, 14" discs for the chop saw $16.
Al the other material for gussets, and wheel pads/brackets were on hand. I had fabbed the door plates yeeeears ago, just never made the bars to fit. I did make an .090" thick shim on the aft end, so the bars can be removed without cutting them.
40-50 hrs labor, but whos counting.
It is Datsun Roadster specific.
Sadly, I have not recovered 3000 pics from my old phone.

With the exception of removing the shift lever, I did all the necessary steps for drive train removal. Hopefully I'll have the drivetrain pulled tomorrow and the new five speed installed. Then I get to try to pull the steering box. Sometimes I wish my garage and shop space were heated. sigh.

Well with the help and parts from several vendors and list members I have started assembling another U20. The new gears and heavy duty chains from JT are so nice, Dean had all of the tensioners and gaskets on hand...I had one damaged/bent rod so the cost of repair/balancing and new rod bolts installed was more than a new set of rods from New Datsun Parts so I went with Carl's. I had the pistons (30 over) coated on top and skirts and the non-smog head was built by Rebello. The crank was lightened/balanced with a new Harmonic Balancer from Dean and Alum flywheel/clutch plate from JT. I need to get my web site updated as I recorded the build in photos. The great thing about this engine is I was able to remove all of studs from the front timing cover so I can slide it forward without removing the head. It was a nice feature while I verified the chains as I moved the cam gear from the hanger onto the cam. It has been a long time since I have been able to put some time in on the car so this was a big step...a few more tweaks and the main portion of the engine will be complete.

v/r
Buddy

pebbles wrote:

Curtis wrote:So how about some more pics and details of the spinner?

Made from 2 discarded 4 legged engine hoists.
Bought the tubes at Everett Steel for $38 and cut them to length.
Bought 6 new 250 lbs locking urethane wheels at the new local Tractor Supply $18 ea.
Bought a hole saw blade to cut the post for the pipe $32.
Filled the welder bottle $36.
2, 14" discs for the chop saw $16.
Al the other material for gussets, and wheel pads/brackets were on hand. I had fabbed the door plates yeeeears ago, just never made the bars to fit. I did make an .090" thick shim on the aft end, so the bars can be removed without cutting them.
40-50 hrs labor, but whos counting.
It is Datsun Roadster specific.
Sadly, I have not recovered 3000 pics from my old phone.

Thanks. I'll have to arrange a visit if permitted.

Curtis wrote:Thanks. I'll have to arrange a visit if permitted.

Sure thing Curtis. Shoot me an email or pm.

Finished getting my axle back together.

Nice to see progress being made, my shop has been so cold lately that my enthusiasm fades after an hour or two.
Michael

mlwebb wrote:Nice to see progress being made, my shop has been so cold lately that my enthusiasm fades after an hour or two.
Michael

Used one of these a while back building a manx at my friends garage. Tang top recommended.

mlwebb wrote:Nice to see progress being made, my shop has been so cold lately that my enthusiasm fades after an hour or two.
Michael

This is in the corner of Kevin's new shop, now that he is right at the base of the mountains.. It is nice!

Where is that stove vented??? Need a wider shot.

That stove looks nice, but I don't think my shop landlord would agree. It's a typical industrial strip building, with 18-20 foot high ceilings (had fun changing ou the lights for led last week), don't think there is an affordable way to heat the whole space. I am just hoping for a warming trend (: Snow and freezing rain at the moment.
Michael

I simply take a used high efficiency downdraft central heat unit and mount it to a wood box with a little larger footprint than the heaters base. I used two 18x18 grills to disperse the airflow. Cover the top where it draws the air in with a cheap disposable filter, supply some natural gas, or in my case propane, hook up a inexpensive thermostat, some electric with a Hevay duty extension cord, and your good to go! If you're concerned about venting you can probably tie into existing vents, but I've done this in two different homes for the last 15 years with no "apparent" ill effects. Total cost was about $200.

mlwebb wrote:Nice to see progress being made, my shop has been so cold lately that my enthusiasm fades after an hour or two.
Michael

My shop, which is about 20 miles north of Mainer, is 2000 square feet with 17 foot ceiling. It is well insulated, and I heat it for around $450.00 a year. I have an inner room which is 350 square feet with a ten foot ceiling, which is also insulated, although the door to the main outer part is not tight. The heat is from a wall mount non-vented catalytic propane heater. I have a CO detector close to it, but the air exchange to the outer part provides plenty of fresh air, and the outer part has two overhead doors. I keep the inner room at 50 then bump it up to 60 when I go in, and this is where I do almost all of my work in the winter. The outer part stays at around 40 degrees with the heat coming from the inner room. When I do need to heat the outer part I have a propane salamander for that.