Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

RBMann wrote:

Mainer311 wrote:

When I first looked at the photo I though you were using plastic jugs for jack stands. Scary! That is the trouble with looking at things in the morning, my mind is a little slow.

I also use t-shirts but separate the front and back with scissors, cut off the sleeves, cut in half vertically then divide into quarters horizontally. I end up with 20 small squares to use like paper towels.

OCD much ?

+ 1 on the cardboard

Towed the Fairlady to its new digs in Bellingham Wa over the weekend.

Nice Tacoma!

RBMann wrote:

Mainer311 wrote:

When I first looked at the photo I though you were using plastic jugs for jack stands. Scary! That is the trouble with looking at things in the morning, my mind is a little slow.

Just be safe. The more parts you remove, the already light rear gets even lighter.
Chalk those front tires with those old brake shoes
Thanks for keeping us safe Rick. 1 demerit rescinded.

pebbles wrote:

RBMann wrote:

Mainer311 wrote:

When I first looked at the photo I though you were using plastic jugs for jack stands. Scary! That is the trouble with looking at things in the morning, my mind is a little slow.

Just be safe. The more parts you remove, the already light rear gets even lighter.
Chalk those front tires with those old brake shoes
Thanks for keeping us safe Rick. 1 demerit rescinded.

I thought "what is this chalk?" A means to index the tires so that they go on the same way?" Then I realized that Pebbles meant CHOCK. Must be the auto spell check.

pebbles wrote:Chalk those front tires with those old brake shoes

Yeah, I have actual chocks in the front.

BTW, does anyone know where to get new gas tank straps, or do we generally just bend our own?

C.Costine wrote:
I thought "what is this chalk?" A means to index the tires so that they go on the same way?" Then I realized that Pebbles meant CHOCK. Must be the auto spell check.

Guess i dint spell chalk wrong lol

Shined up and installed fog light plugs into fog light holes. It's exciting to me to finally fill those two holes with an original part that is getting harder to find.

I replaced the fuel line from the fuel filter to the carbs and to the hard return line with considerably more effort that I thought it should take!

I am thinking that it had the wrong sized fuel line from the PO as some of the lines were too hard to get back on. Next time I think I will exchange some of the nipples or increase the fuel line size in places.

This was on a 1970 2000. Fuel line from the carbs to the hard return line by the firewall was 5/16 and I replaced it with 5/16 That went on smoothly.
I used Gates LP (Low Permeation) Carb Fuel Line 5/16" ID model # 27314

The PO had 1/4 inch from the fuel tank to the fuel filter. I was thinking that some of that should have been hard lines?
But it was hose. There was a hard line for vacuum I guess? ( as it hooked to the vacuum standoff on the 5 way brake line connector by the coil.)
And another hard line for the fuel return but the source/input line was rubber hose 1/4 SAE 30R7. It seemed in flexible good shape still up to the fuel filter.

But the hoses from the filter to the fuel pump and from the pump to the carbs were quite hardened after just 6 years.

For those lines I replaced them with Gates 27313 1/4" x 25' 50 PSI Barricade Fuel Line.
It is suppose to handle the unleaded ethanol fuel better and have more or a resistant cover with less permeation:

"Not for use on the pressure-side of fuel injection systems. Approved for use with leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel, bio-diesel, E-85, methanol, ethanol, and gasohol fuels. Patented five-layer Greenshield® barrier technology keeps fuel out of the environment while delivering peak fuel efficiency.

- Meets SAE J30R14T1, EPA 40 CFR 1051.110 , and CARB small engine off-road requirements for low permeation (except for kink resistance)
- Textile spiral layer (two spiral) and thermoplastic barrier layer
- Oil, heat, ozone and abrasion resistant cover
- Recommended for carbureted engines in cars, light trucks, off-road vehicles and small engines
- Temperature rating: -40° F to 257° F (-40° C to 125° C)

Note: Do not submerse in gasoline."

"SAE J30R14T1 is the standard for ultra-low permeation properties. This type of hose is typically approved for use with leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel, biodiesel, E85, methanol, ethanol and gasohol fuels. These are typically used for low-pressure applications."

The nipples on the "nylon/plastic" Fuel Filter are LARGE! They seem to be designed for 5/16 inch hose or larger. The 1/4 hose is almost impossible to get on. The old 1/4 hose had to be cut off the old filter. I was afraid the new fuel filter would break just trying to get the 1/4 inch lines on. The fuel filter hoses took me about 15-20 minutes each of pushing and twisting to get them on the fuel filter! That was with some lubrication and with an attempt to pre-stretch them a bit.

It took maybe 5 minutes of pushing and twisting on the input side of the fuel pump which is brass or something. I could push on it better without fear of it breaking.

On the output side of the fuel pump the 1/4 slipped right on without issue, same with the inputs to the carbs, 1/4 worked perfectly on those lines.

So I am wondering is the fuel line from the gas tank to the fuel filter suppose to be a hard line part of the way?
I only chased it back down the frame about half the way and decided it still looked ok.

Is the line to the fuel filter suppose to be 5/16 inch ID?

Is the line from the fuel filter to the input of the fuel pump suppose to be 5/15 inch OD?

The nipples on the input and middle connector section of the 2000 SU carbs is definitely designed for 1/4 inch ID hose.
But the fuel filter nipples and the input side of the fuel pump seemed awfully tight for 1/4 inch.


PS - I know the plugs and plug wires are off as well as the breather hose and throttle cable and valve cover nuts. I am in the completion phase of changing out the timing chains and sprockets and head job with new rockers and B cam and valve work. Just buttoning it up now. I also painted and cleaned the engine bay area. It was getting a lot of surface rust.

Nice work Stacy, looking better than ever!
Mine has hard line from the tank to the pump and then 5/16 after that. Return is 100% hard line.
Now we can do a drag race to conclusively see wether SUs with B-cam would beat Solex with an A-cam

AidanDawn2000 wrote:Nice work Stacy, looking better than ever!
Mine has hard line from the tank to the pump and then 5/16 after that. Return is 100% hard line.
Now we can do a drag race to conclusively see wether SUs with B-cam would beat Solex with an A-cam

Funny! except you will have to gain about 125 lbs or so to account for our weight difference and give me a 5 second head start to account for my 44 years older slower reactions!

Pulled more of the rear apart. Both leaves dropped, pulled the axle, and began working on the diff.

New battery, topped off fluids, cleaned engine bay a bit. Inspected hoses, might need heater hose soon. Managed to back into a beam, at very low speed fortunately.Chipped the chrome slightly on the right rear of the bumper and it developed a slight kink in middle. No other damage. I can live with it, but my bumper was already needing replacement as it didn't have the bow in the middle, this just hastened that work. Right after that, took it out for a spin to redeem the day, started raining earlier than expected, luckily I was within 2 blocks of being home.
Some days you just have to stay in.

Bumper already ordered, will need a chrome shop in the LA area if anyone has a recommendation.