Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Not all done today, but over the last week...

-Replaced rear pass side brake wheel cylinder.Should have done both sides last summer when I did the driver's side.

-Replaced brake shoes: #359 (510 compatible)

-Installed new rear shocks: KYB Gas A-Justs KG5447

-Installed new urethane shock bushings all around
Suspension.com 3 x 9.8126G (4 / bag) and 1 x 9.8107G (2 / bag) hourglass shock eye for rear.

-Installed 23mm sway bar w/ urethane bushings

-Replaced front wheel bearings, races and seals Recommend HF Bearing and Seal Driver Set
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-b ... 95853.html

Today I worked on getting the roadster closer to drivable.

1. Attached the drive shaft.
2. Connected the fuel tank.
3. Tried to install the new Champion radiator but it won't fit with my electric fan. Either need to find a super thin fan or mount the radiator 1/2 lower.
4. Attached a engine ground strap

Still have to solve the radiator issue and rebuild the Solexes. I hope they are easy to rebuild
Greg

@ Solex68
I have a Mikuni/Solex e-manual if you need one

I pulled the thermostat tower off of my old engine so I could get to the thermostat.

Removed two nuts, three taps with the rubber mallet and the tower pulled right off, with very little effort. Woohoo! I was not looking forward to fighting this thing as others have. Something went right! God Bless the inventor of Anti-Sieze!!!!

Slather those studs well with Anti Seize to keep it that way!

Yesterday Curtis came over and we (mostly he) worked on the wiring harness. He figured out why I haven't had turn signals for 28 yrs (missing parts in the switch), and we're finalizing the circuits. Then I worked on my seats, tightening the rubber belts by unhooking the webbing, removing the loop plates that hold the hooks, folding over and punching some new holes with the ol rotating hole punch, then reinstalling the plates with hooks. Shortened up the belts by about two inches, firming up the seats quite nicely.

Went to Skip Miller's shop for a pre-Solvang checkup. Saw Adam with his 2 liter with it's new red interior. Looked great.

Greg, do you need switch parts?

spl310 wrote:Greg, do you need switch parts?

Thanks, no. I fixed it yesterday. Was missing the contact plate inside and the spring to help it return when you cancel the signal.

spl310 wrote:Slather those studs well with Anti Seize to keep it that way!

Actually I am doing away with the whole water tower and going with the short elbow fixture. Buit I will still use the anti-sieze on the bolts for the elbow!

tputland wrote:

spl310 wrote:Slather those studs well with Anti Seize to keep it that way!

Actually I am doing away with the whole water tower and going with the short elbow fixture. Buit I will still use the anti-sieze on the bolts for the elbow!

One word, stainless. Even though I still have the tower, I made stainless studs. Anti seize also and when I had to pull it back off not a bit of rust problem.

What will you do about filling your radiator Tim? Inline filler or 2000 radiator?

when I had my three row radiator made a few years ago, I had a fill cap braised into the top of the stock radiator. It works great and there are no worries about having to burp the system. (it clears the hood just fine as well.)

Sent my 4 speed transmission to a doctor today.
I have no idea if it requires any re-conditioning since I have never driven the car
[It and the diff are the only things that haven't been closely examined by somebody who knows about such things!]
The guy said he would have a good look at the innards and let me know if it requires any attention.
I also got him to check the uni joints on the drive shaft.
Verdict: They are fine, just re-grease the trunnions and away we go!
Not bad for a 48 y.o. part

Nissanman wrote:@ Solex68
I have a Mikuni/Solex e-manual if you need one

Thanks. I have one, just never ventured to try using it! LOL.
Greg