Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Linda wrote:I completed adding a new coil to my car, Blaster2 #8222, hi vibration ,epoxy filled, 45,000 volts. It was getting kind of hot so I rechecked and tightened connections. The ignition module had a little gouge in it exposing some metal so I put some liquid electrical tape on just to see if that might help. The coil is cooler but not sure what did what But if it is fixed sometimes you just don't care too much!
I do like the MSD system. Nice idle and power from the multi sparks.
I have a spare coil, a spare pickup, and a spare module because it isn't always fuel problem...although BTDT
Linda

I tilted my Street Fire coil so it is at 45 degrees. Good enough.
Only complaint so far about the MSD system is my 1970's vintage shop tach connected
shows 0 rpm now .
So using it to fine tune my carbs (mixture wise) is not in the cards.

"Only complaint so far about the MSD system is my 1970's vintage shop tach connected
shows 0 rpm now . "

Wierd. I have a pertronix in my truck with a flamethrower coil or something like that (pertronix one) and in the roadster i have a gary boone electronic dizzy and in both cases my 1970 shop tac works on them. Maybe just a MSD thing?

Zero tach because of a transmission problem, I get it.

Linda

Linda wrote:Zero tach because of a transmission problem, I get it.

Linda

Well it might be worse, zero transmission because of a Tach problem!

I installed the B&M short shifter on the SR20 setup this morning.
***Note to anyone doing this upgrade***
"Always remember... Remove bushing from shift lever first then insert the bushing into the shift lever receiver on the transmission second. Then insert shift lever and tighten down"
(Those who search and find this post will understand)

B&M instructions say the front bolts need to be removed from under the car. Well, um... yeah no, that's not possible on our Roadsters. Having semi-small hands helped. A long, 12mm that was bent and modified with a torch was a must. I've only dry tested her in the garage. I'll see how she performs once the weather improves this afternoon.
And of course, I had a blast wrestling our stock boot ring thing. Ugh, I wish I had 10 boots to experiment with. There's got to be an easier way but I haven't found it yet. Maybe you have? Please post a detailed sticky.
Leather boot with red stitching looks cool with the matching knob. Have a look.

Kendall

Looks sporty for sure.

S

Yesterday I finally started the process of stripping parts off the front end of the roadster so I can get in and replace the full set of timing gears and chains with some great quality products from JT68. it is a bit easier with my new lift as well.

here is where I got to so far. drained coolant, removed radiator, shroud, hoses, fan, pulley, alternator and wires. oil pan comes off tonight.


and yes, I'm going to be real careful trying to remove the water pump studs.

when I get done I may do a more complete writeup of the process.

Any particular reason to remove the studs for Water pump? I just did my Timing chains and all they do is hold the water pump to the block. I did a budget refresh, R/R both chains without the sprockets but what a difference just chains make. Had quite some slop at both tensioners but after just new chains it's sitting pretty without any spacers now.

Kendall124 wrote:I installed the B&M short shifter on the SR20 setup this morning.
I've only dry tested her in the garage. I'll see how she performs once the weather improves this afternoon.

Very cool shifter. Works great. "H" pattern is super tight. Almost zero stick movement when accelerating. Very snappy. Neutral position has no slop at all. A nice addition.

Re-learning to drive the car (again). I started from a stop in 3rd gear a few times.

nismou20 wrote:Any particular reason to remove the studs for Water pump? I just did my Timing chains and all they do is hold the water pump to the block. I did a budget refresh, R/R both chains without the sprockets but what a difference just chains make. Had quite some slop at both tensioners but after just new chains it's sitting pretty without any spacers now.

I am doing it without removing the head. But sometimes the cover will not go back on easily as the studs can be a bit crooked and with the alignment pins that are also in back there it can make it near impossible to get the cover on properly with the studs installed.

On mine i can see the leftmost stud is leaning a bit to the right, so it would make it hard to get back on.

Sounds like you lucked out with straighter studs.

I actually bolted the head on first to get all timing components on. When you go to mount the timing cover, I just ran a bit of anaerobic gasket glue on top surface of cover and it slide right on. Of course my oil pan was off. I see your dilemma now.

Installed a new steering wheel:

more details here:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 14#p241814

My roadster sat and watched while I tuned an MGB. Sigh.

Mainer311 wrote:My roadster sat and watched while I tuned an MGB. Sigh.

I finally got mine back on the road. A firm brake pedal is a sweet thing!