What did you do TO or FOR your Datsun today?(Roadsters only)

[dynaguy]

Mazda rx7 limited slip rear end with disc brakes.

[notoptoy]

^Definitely a custom set-up!

[bakerjf]

New throttle shafts and valves for my "rebuilt" Mikunis. Thanks again Dave Premo for all the help - the car idles great now!

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[msampsel]

New throttle shafts and valves for my "rebuilt" Mikunis. Thanks again Dave Premo for all the help - the car idles great now!

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These are too darn pretty to go in a car, you need to keep them on your garage wall
for art work ! Very nice

[Linda]

I used some 3M hand glaze on my car. You put it on and wipe it off, which is not as easy to do as wax. It is more durable though.

Linda

[Alvin]

You put it on and wipe it off, which is not as easy to do as wax.

Linda

I put wax on and buff it out with my hand. Are you telling me there is no need to hand buff with the glaze!?!?

[msampsel]

You put it on and wipe it off, which is not as easy to do as wax.

Linda

I put wax on and buff it out with my hand. Are you telling me there is no need to hand buff with the glaze!?!?

I like glaze because you can paint it easily, not so with wax. And after 20 years no mater
how careful a little paint is needed.

With glaze you just rub it off with a clean cloth, never buffed it with mechanical buffer.
My last paint (done in 95) has never been waxed.

MeGuiar's makes several types. My 2 cents.

[Mainer311]

I just bought an Altima vented rotor conversion kit from Mike. Finally, brakes that work!

[Linda]

Alvin,
Hand glaze needs to be hand buffed off. You put it on after you have washed, clayed and machine buffed, if you did that. Then you apply and wipe off, in the case of hand glaze. You can wax on top of it. The glaze is more durable than just wax.
Google 3 M hand glaze for.more info.
Also Autogeek is good for info on types of products.
Linda

[PBJ]

Yesterday I chopped out a pile of rust, today I replaced the panel with fresh metal.

Next week I have to fab the rest of the sheet metal to fix this corner.

[AidanDawn2000]

Yesterday I chopped out a pile of rust, today I replaced the panel with fresh metal.

Next week I have to fab the rest of the sheet metal to fix this corner.

I wish I knew how to wip up new metal like that. My floor boards are getting a bit drafty if you know what I mean:(

[C.Costine]

Yesterday I chopped out a pile of rust, today I replaced the panel with fresh metal.

Next week I have to fab the rest of the sheet metal to fix this corner.

Looking good. Are you going to run continuous butt welds or spot welds or a mix? I have cut out all of the rust on my '67 and replaced with new metal. I have just the left front corner behind the fender still to go. I did all butt welds except at panel joints where I made plug welds.

[PBJ]

Yesterday I chopped out a pile of rust, today I replaced the panel with fresh metal.

Next week I have to fab the rest of the sheet metal to fix this corner.

Looking good. Are you going to run continuous butt welds or spot welds or a mix? I have cut out all of the rust on my '67 and replaced with new metal. I have just the left front corner behind the fender still to go. I did all butt welds except at panel joints where I made plug welds.

I am planning to plug weld it all. I debated seam welding the car to stiffen it up, but I want it to be as original as I can make it... Granted it's not original metal, but all the original spot weld holes will be welded back as they were, then some permatex to weather seal it.

I bought weld able primer that it will all get painted with, this way the inside is still primed after I weld all the bits back together again. I've never used this stuff before so it's a bit of an experiment really.

[C.Costine]

Yesterday I chopped out a pile of rust, today I replaced the panel with fresh metal.

Next week I have to fab the rest of the sheet metal to fix this corner.

Looking good. Are you going to run continuous butt welds or spot welds or a mix? I have cut out all of the rust on my '67 and replaced with new metal. I have just the left front corner behind the fender still to go. I did all butt welds except at panel joints where I made plug welds.

I am planning to plug weld it all. I debated seam welding the car to stiffen it up, but I want it to be as original as I can make it... Granted it's not original metal, but all the original spot weld holes will be welded back as they were, then some permatex to weather seal it.

I bought weld able primer that it will all get painted with, this way the inside is still primed after I weld all the bits back together again. I've never used this stuff before so it's a bit of an experiment really.

I used the weld through primer wherever I was closing an area in. It seemed to interfere a little with the weld so I turned the heat up a little. It looks like you will need to butt weld on the post ahead of the door.

[PBJ]

Looking good. Are you going to run continuous butt welds or spot welds or a mix? I have cut out all of the rust on my '67 and replaced with new metal. I have just the left front corner behind the fender still to go. I did all butt welds except at panel joints where I made plug welds.

I am planning to plug weld it all. I debated seam welding the car to stiffen it up, but I want it to be as original as I can make it... Granted it's not original metal, but all the original spot weld holes will be welded back as they were, then some permatex to weather seal it.

I bought weld able primer that it will all get painted with, this way the inside is still primed after I weld all the bits back together again. I've never used this stuff before so it's a bit of an experiment really.

I used the weld through primer wherever I was closing an area in. It seemed to interfere a little with the weld so I turned the heat up a little. It looks like you will need to butt weld on the post ahead of the door.

Yes, that is true, the patch panels will get fully welded and I'll clean them up so you never knew they were there.

I have really been learning a lot with this car, I've bought some really fun tools to help build it as well!