Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Finishing up the brakes. Getting closer to putting the body back on the frame.
MC's are Tilton 75's - 4" to firewall (:
Michael

If you can, show how that looks from the pedal side, the other side of the firewall.
It looks so clean. Well done.

Ya what he said!

mlwebb wrote:Finishing up the brakes. Getting closer to putting the body back on the frame.
MC's are Tilton 75's - 4" to firewall (:
Michael

Just woke up and the brain is still lumbering along in slow mode. Looked at the first picture and thought nice looking setup. MC for clutch, brakes and a hydraulic throttle, cool. I'll check back later when I am awake.

It's a little chilly in my porta-garage, I'll post a new pic once I get the gas pedal in, but here is a pic from mock-up, before cleaning, welding and paint.
The stock roadster pedal ratio is 3.8/1 by my measurements, the Tilton is 5.5-6.2/1(depending on adjustment).

Also a little indoor project, modest 240z SU mods (rounding front and back edge of the pistons, slightly widening the bore at filter end. Next up is making some new throttle shafts.

mlwebb wrote:Finishing up the brakes. Getting closer to putting the body back on the frame.
MC's are Tilton 75's - 4" to firewall (:
Michael

beautiful work...........

I decided that I want a nice looking engine compartment so out came all the wires, brake and clutch lines and master cylinders, and of course the engine and transmission, so that I can sand blast all the corners and recessed spaces in there. Mission creep continues.

I discovered a pesky oil leak at the brass union to the engine block for the line to the dizzy.

I must have left it loose when I removed line when I removed the Dizzy to install the tach cable seal.

So I fixed the leak at the tach cable but unwittingly (doh!) created a new one
(which I thought was from the rear seal but not maybe yea!).

Anyway I placed a paper towel (heavy duty one) under the line and kept tightening the brass nut
until the towel was dry with the engine plugging at 2000 rpm. Oil pressure
at 2000 is about 60-70 psi (I have an HD pump).

Cheers

Did a little work on the gas tank, fitting sides. I don't have a tig welder, but my shop neighbor, a honda tuner, does. The baffles are just tacked in, they will get some more welding once the sides are tacked on. By calculation it should hold almost 15 gal. I had a sheet metal shop across the street bend the aluminum bottom and sides, then I cut out plywood to match the sides, with radius edges, then hammer formed the sides over them.
A Fuel Safe sock filter will go on one end of the pickup tube, a aluminum -6 AN fitting on the other. Next, locate the filler neck and figure out a mounting for the fuel sender, in a plate of some sort that can be removed if I need to get to the filter. A Carter pump is mounted in front of the rear passenger axle.

Michael

Wow Michael, I spent all afternoon just installing my tank, and you practically built a new one from scratch. I've got to pick up the pace! Nice work. Mike

Well not as spectacular as building my own gas tank ...

Getting ready to say good bye to my 19 year old Goodyear tires with 3300 miles.
Decided to polish wheels a little while easy to get at ...

Before and after pics of wheels follows. Will need to shower Alvin's thread with my wheel and tire parade when I get them on next week.
Waiting on Yoko S.drives 185/55/14 ...

Cheers

Spent most of the afternoon fixing a toilet, but did manage to get my torsion/traction/biscuit bar bolted in. This is a bit of an experiment, but my 67 didn't have a torsion bar, and since I added some reinforcing to the underside of the frame X (to make up for cutting most of it out), I had a place to put a front mount. The differential mount bolts on, and has a u-bolt that pins it to a recess in the front of the differential to take pressure off the pumpkin bolts, and take the rotation force. The rear mount hangs 2" below the bottom of the differential, and the torsion/traction bar is very close to the same length as the driveshaft. When I finally get it on the road I plan on hanging a gopro down there and see if it works. I am hoping that it and the panhard bar should keep the rear end pretty well located.
Michael

mlwebb wrote:Spent most of the afternoon fixing a toilet, but did manage to get my torsion/traction/biscuit bar bolted in. This is a bit of an experiment, but my 67 didn't have a torsion bar, and since I added some reinforcing to the underside of the frame X (to make up for cutting most of it out), I had a place to put a front mount. The differential mount bolts on, and has a u-bolt that pins it to a recess in the front of the differential to take pressure off the pumpkin bolts, and take the rotation force. The rear mount hangs 2" below the bottom of the differential, and the torsion/traction bar is very close to the same length as the driveshaft. When I finally get it on the road I plan on hanging a gopro down there and see if it works. I am hoping that it and the panhard bar should keep the rear end pretty well located.
Michael

Good looking work for sure. Hope the traction bar can apply enough torque (has the lever arm compared to the rotation) to keep the axel
where you want it. Looking forward to the go pro video.

Michael

Okee dokee Michael
Just a couple of quick questions.
Are you doing duel exhaust?
And do you have a build thread?
I'm interested to see what your doing!

Matthew

RoadsterMike sonic dipped my carbs today. They are so clean now. He also did the intake manifold and heat shield.
We caught up on our cars and whats need to be done before Solvang.