Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

It should be a screw on, the notches are to keep it from spinning in the dash I believe.
It's been awhile since I removed one, but I am pretty sure!

Yes it's a screw threaded lock nut. If you had the right "socket" you could literally align the pins and rotate it off.

Keep an eye on any spacers / washers that you may have on the ignition switch, as they need to be re-used in the same sequence in order to get it to fit properly.

FWIW
E

Where is the most economical place to get engine mount isolators? Anyone got a Part number?

The part number is 11223-32200, you can call these Nissan folks first, here is a link:

http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=11223-32200" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

to see if they're still available, if not, the vendors have 'em.

I have that one on my "economical part interchangeability list" research project. Right now, I'm thinking that older model Volvo mounts might be useable replacements.

well, if I'm doing a KA swap, I suppose the isolator type I use doesn't matter?
/
also, when you do an r16 stroker, is there actual machining involved and what is the approx cost of parts?

thanks

What are my options for long wheels studs front and rear and who sells them?

My new 15" superlites covers 10mm of the stud and the nut covers 11mm of the bolt in front and in back the rim covers 10mm of the stud and the nut covers 13mm of the stud. Is this set up ok or do I need longer studs?

Thanks
Matt

which are the correct fenders for a 67.5? the early ones or 68+?

67.5 Fenders are unique. 67 and earlier have smaller flairs. 68 and up have the correct flairs, but where they meet the body at the windhield there is a small difference. 69 and 70 have holes for parking/side marker lights. So, to answer your question, I think the 68 is probably the best substitution, as the alignment issue can be worked out near the fender at the windshield.
I'm not positive on this, but think it's basically correct.

OR better yet, from the Rallye website: http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES ... m#WHATFITS" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
"Although the roadsters were changed fairly often, some of the differences were subtle, and can be worked around to use a lower cost part or in some cases the only available part. A lot of information on "what fits what" will be covered in our next print catalog, and somewhat on the individual parts pages for each part. Not all of the different year parts are available so many times it's necessary to improvise. Nissan itself even did this with their parts supply. We have some fenders that the factory modified by welding up sidelight holes, or even welding on an entire other flare.

Front Fenders vary in the size of the flare, the park light hole, and what the shape of the side marker light hole is, if any. Emblem holes, (if predrilled), may be different on some years. Although some people feel the shape of the rear upper end of the fenders where they hit the cowl and upper part of the door is different between 68-70 and older cars, there seems to be as much difference between one 68 fender to another 68 or from one 67 1/2 fender to another 67 1/2 as there is between a 67 1/2 and a 68! The rear most part of the 63-64 and 65 1500 fenders differ, although NOS replacement fenders have had only one of the styles for at least 28 years. (Pics and Info) Fenders depending on production run also can vary around headlight area as well. It was not intentional, they just vary due to inadequate quality control. The headlight rims themselves can vary a lot. Always fit the headlight scoop to the fender before painting the fender. Don't assume the mounting holes (if they are already there) for the headlight scoop trims are in the best place. I did have a body shop tell me one time it was easy to flare the 1500 fender into a medium flare 65-67 1600 fender than it was to "deflare" a later fender to work on the earlier 1600. But that was just one person's opinion."

if I only have a set of z whhels to put on a car to make it roll. what kind of lugnuts do i need? will the z ones work?

also, what hub application do i need to look for if i want to fit either a momo or grant pattern steering wheel?

thanks

inline4 wrote:if I only have a set of z whhels to put on a car to make it roll. what kind of lugnuts do i need? will the z ones work?

also, what hub application do i need to look for if i want to fit either a momo or grant pattern steering wheel?

thanks

The lugs go by the thread, Roadster is 7/16-20, but some Nissan wheels used shoulder style lugnut with a larger outside diameter than a "normal" mag wheel lugnut, with a metric thread. If you have these, then you need to get the proper nuts, not the factory Nissan Metrics. IIRC there is a post here somewhere,listing the nuts and a source for a spacer sleeve, before going on the road. To roll around the garage, not a big issue, even conical seat nuts, 7/16-20, would work.

If you have an issue with the center hole size on the front, a 1/4" spacer will get the wheels to bolt on. Whether this is safe for road use, form your own opinion, it's your butt in the seat.

Don't confuse the mag wheels that many dealers put on the Z cars with OEM equipment, they're not. The lug nuts need to match the studs and the thickness of the mag.

If they are the OEM wheels, do take the precautions mentioned by Dave.

FWIW
E

thanks guys, yeah its just to roll right now... the lug nuts that were on the car just barely fit, I'm going to look for something different, as soon as I get the car a) running and b) with solid brakes.

Just a quick question. On the wiper arm pivots on a high windshield car. There is an aluminum "spacer" for the pivot that then has a nut that goes over it to hold it all together. Does anyone know what size and thread pitch that nut is or which vendors carry it? Thank you.

Came across a chassis wiring harness in new condition; thought the p/n might be a roadster number but I can't link it in any searches I've tried for the 311's, 310's, 410's or 510's or Z's.
Part number on the harness tag is 24014-B5501. Any help as to what the application is would be appreciated.

alex wrote:Just a quick question. On the wiper arm pivots on a high windshield car. There is an aluminum "spacer" for the pivot that then has a nut that goes over it to hold it all together. Does anyone know what size and thread pitch that nut is or which vendors carry it? Thank you.

If it's the nut that clamps the wiper pivot to the body, I've heard that Moss Motors sells a nut for the MG that is very close to the actual proper thread pitch. I mention the difference because the wiper pivot metal is extremely soft and the threads often do not survive the removal of the original nut.

Hopefully others have some information that can lead you in a different direction than this as it's definitely a "better than nothing" type of fix. If I recall, I read it in the wiki.

E