Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

spl310 wrote:Is the block new? If so it should have the U20, but no numbers. If it has neither, it has been decked.

I'm going to take another look today but am pretty certain the ID number spot is blank. We don't think this one has been rebuilt though.

What's the recommended mileage interval for repacking the front wheel bearings? I'm about to install a new set...wondering if it's worth the $30 for a bearing packer if I may only use it four times to pack each of the new bearings.

What? You question buying a new tool? Heresy!
I bought a nice Lisle packer years ago and love it. I have used it at least 8 times. Which is about 7 times more than many other specialty tools I have purchased in my lifetime!

Got a question on alternator wiring. The PO installed a IR alternator but didn’t get it wired in before I bought the car, the stock batt connection is made and there is a wire that has been grafted into the harness on the main feed positive wire but wasn’t connected to the alternator. There was a second wire that wasn’t connected to anything close to the alternator and the other end was hanging off the steering column. Any ideas how it should be wired into the harness correctly? It is a Denso alternator. Oh yeah, it is a 70 1600.

Try Googling the alternator model number, I can't read it in the pics.

http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-part.aspx

oppositeLock wrote:What's the recommended mileage interval for repacking the front wheel bearings? I'm about to install a new set...wondering if it's worth the $30 for a bearing packer if I may only use it four times to pack each of the new bearings.

30k or till grease starts flingin out the dust cap onto the wheel. Hard braking will reduce the life of the grease. New seals are a good idea too.
I put a big glob in my palm and push the large side of the bearing into the edge of the glob. Rotate the bearing, push, rotate push, about 3-4 revolutions, until grease protrudes through the upper side of the bearing. You will be suprised how much grease the bearing takes. Wear latex type gloves.
I tried to use a bearing packer once.......didnt like it.

So on my Roadster I have this open hole on one side
http://ibb.co/mhAYEb

And this black plug on the other side. Is this what goes here normally? Anyone know what it is called, or have a part number? I would like to plug the hole at a minimum.
http://ibb.co/hxs27w

Also what am I doing wrong for posting pics.

No idea - perhaps from some after market hard top, CB aerials perhaps - in either case, AFAIK they are not original - never seen them on any roadster. You could look at OSH, they have a bunch of fancy hole plugs, including chrome ones.
FYI - there are detailed schematics (with part numbers) at www.carpartsmanual.com

Best

Pete

Hi everyone! After reading through posts I've come to the conclusion that the best wiring upgrade I can do is swapping the fuse box on my 68. This will allow me to run the radio and switch from the glass fuses that are harder to find. I've heard the main reason the headlight fuse blows on the 68 model is the rivet on the brass connector loosens up. I'd like to eliminate it from happening anymore (every once and a while for me). I'm a little new to wiring but read schematics in my job all the time, so just a few questions.
What's the best way to duplicate the 2 fuse connector like stock? I imagine splicing a wire between the two.
Seen on the 30A to 20A fuse and the 20A to 10A here:
http://www.311s.org/PDFs/wiring_02.pdf
planning on a box like this:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46074/E ... -ATC-Fuse/

Question 2. best way connect wires cleanly? Solder with a wrap over? crimping connectors?
Thanks in advance!

As far as connecting wires, I really like the Vintage Connections crimping tool. it’s super easy to use and makes beautiful professional and durable connections.

Does anyone know the mounting dimensions on the 68 mirror? The base and the holes basically? I dont want to pull the door panel off and get into all that until I know for sure my plan will work

edit: Ive been trying to find the answer, but is the mirror mounted with just one bolt/nut?

2nd edit: Found this link
http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES ... r_base.htm

Looks like its a perfect match of 3 5/8" end to end, and it looks pretty close for the center to center base of the holes

Good enough for me to try it out!... stay tuned

QYKSLVR wrote:So on my Roadster I have this open hole on one side
http://ibb.co/mhAYEb

And this black plug on the other side. Is this what goes here normally? Anyone know what it is called, or have a part number? I would like to plug the hole at a minimum.
http://ibb.co/hxs27w

Also what am I doing wrong for posting pics.

It looks like it is well outside of any roof line. I first thought of some kind of luggage rack but if not on the lid itself, it would block access to the trunk. I think we can safely say it is not stock and therefore not essential.

ACote wrote: What's the best way to duplicate the 2 fuse connector like stock? I imagine splicing a wire between the two.
Seen on the 30A to 20A fuse and the 20A to 10A here:

Question 2. best way connect wires cleanly? Solder with a wrap over? crimping connectors?
Thanks in advance!

Here's mine:



Rather than crimp two wires in the same connection, splice the bl/r wire into a Y and run one wire to each fuse.

My preferred method of joining wires is solder and shrink wrap.

QYKSLVR wrote:So on my Roadster I have this open hole on one side
http://ibb.co/mhAYEb

And this black plug on the other side. Is this what goes here normally? Anyone know what it is called, or have a part number? I would like to plug the hole at a minimum.
http://ibb.co/hxs27w

Also what am I doing wrong for posting pics.

QYKSLVR,
The owner previous to me had a CB Radio antenna mounted there. There was also some other switch gear and wiring in the car that I pulled out. What it was originally for I've never looked into.
Jason

Question about wiring harness tape. I have a new OEM harness from the 80's that I need to fix the tape. As is usual with these the adhesive has given up at the end of the tape. I looked for some advice but can't find anything for what would be good to reglue it. Thought about rubber cement. The owner of the harness would like to keep the original tape. Tape is fine just needs to be coated again.

Any advice?

Thanks,