Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

sfdaugherty wrote: Tue Oct 02, 2018 7:15 am Michael: The location of the penetration for the ECU harness depends on the location of your ECU. For most, mounting the ECU on the passenger side makes sense. I have mine on the driver's side due to my Vintage Air Gen IV Magnum evaporator, Ron Francis fan controller, and my Infinitybox Mastercell and wifi on the passenger side. The hole needed to pass the ECU connector through is about 2" so it is a VERY big hole. I located my penetration in the center above the transmission tunnel. I originally just cut the huge hole and ran the harness through but, with the tight clearances, the 1" or larger harness (about 48 wires) is hard to manage under the dash (in my case routing around brake and clutch pedals is a pain) so I cut my harness and installed Deutch bulkhead connectors (HDP20) so that I can disconnect my harness at the firewall and I don't have to pass the ECU connector through the firewall. The Deutch connectors are waterproof (up to about 30 feet) so my firewall is much more airtight than before. Deutch connectors require a 1.75" hole and I have three of them . . . a 47 pin (20 gauge and 14 gauge) for the ECU, and two 29 pin (12 gauge, 16 gauge, and 20 gauge) for the ECU overflow for all other wires.

Shannon

Thank you Shannon. I really like the Deutch connectors but I'm scared to cut up my pretty wiring specialties harness.

I can see light at the end of the tunnel! I have the Spriso Big Brake job done (which, with the Tilton master cylinder system and Tilton pedal system I'm using was a little confusing...) and engine wire harness done. The Holley in-tank fuel pump is nearing completion. Next is the clutch line. I have received my deluxe stainless muffler as well. Still trying to rap my head around the cold air/MAF set up where the MAF meets the front of the engine bay. Not alot of info on this here. good pictures of the line between the throttle and MAF but not of the MAF connection to the front of the engine bay. If anyone has knowledge of this, please pipe in...

I'd like to stop by some day to see this beast's progress

Bigtaku wrote: Fri Nov 02, 2018 6:50 am Still trying to rap my head around the cold air/MAF set up where the MAF meets the front of the engine bay. Not alot of info on this here. good pictures of the line between the throttle and MAF but not of the MAF connection to the front of the engine bay. If anyone has knowledge of this, please pipe in...

Thank you Alvin, you answered my question on this other thread.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31013&p=285102#p285102

Bigtaku wrote: Sat Nov 03, 2018 8:50 am

Bigtaku wrote: Fri Nov 02, 2018 6:50 am Still trying to rap my head around the cold air/MAF set up where the MAF meets the front of the engine bay. Not alot of info on this here. good pictures of the line between the throttle and MAF but not of the MAF connection to the front of the engine bay. If anyone has knowledge of this, please pipe in...

Thank you Alvin, you answered my question on this other thread.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31013&p=285102#p285102

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. Here is mine, and MAF is visible too:

Interesting, the MAF doesn't care if it's at the filter or the radiator/fwd engine area. I never thought of putting it at the filter. Probably easier to get a clean look at the filter.

Back on track with the build. (or on track for the first time?) Not being a real mechanic is not easy! Lots of projects nearing completion. Front brakes are done, waiting on parts for my rear RX7 disk brakes. I'm having the parking brake rods shortened with an adjustable clevis welded on both sides to fit the RX7 rear end, that has been modified to receive the Datsun parking brake rods. Wiring Harness for the engine is in. I just received the air conditioner bracket from Goldhawg. I have my stainless deluxe muffler but still need the down pipe. Need to get my fuel line done. I have a rubber fuel line that came with my kit from Holley but I want to figure out finding fittings for a hard line set up that fits the Holly intake fuel pump. The rubber is not an ideal set up but works and is DOT approved. I have a local welder building me a cold air intake pipe system. My rear tires are going to be replaced with a lower profile to match the front and I will be using the Hub Centric spacers to fill in the flared fender well and get the tires away from my leaf springs.

Being retired and a very understanding wife helps because I spend everyday at the shop figuring this build out. So many little things done that have taken big time to figure out. Who knows... some day I may be the guy who is answering questions! I hope to get her (Mothra) started in the next few weeks. Then the back to the paint shop.

spl310 wrote: Fri Nov 02, 2018 9:56 am I'd like to stop by some day to see this beast's progress

I would love a visit! Not really suppose to have people in the bays because they are restricted areas but as long as we don't get in the owners way on his side of the shop, a visit should be fine. let me know when, PM me for the location

Having an issue with the Holley In-Tank RetroFit Fuel Module. The lines coming out of the pump are 3/8 and the SR20DE is 5/16. You would think this would be an easy plumbing job but it's a time consuming pain. Using a rubber line until I figure this out. The pump also puts out HP Rating @ 60 PSI at 13.5 Volts / 10.4 AMP Draw, more pressure then I need but that should be handled by the regulator. The worrying part is if the 5/16 line can handle the PSI.
On a different note, thank you Michael Spreadbury again for the vacuum line info. I was looking for hours trying to find a vacuum line map and nothing for the NA engine came up. Spreadbury texted me back saying "All you need is to connect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Cap everything else." It's funny how if you know something it's easy but if you don't it's brain surgery.

Let me know when you are around, maybe I can swing by over the Thanksgiving break

Brakes are in and don't leak! Never thought finding RX7 rear brake parts would be as hard to find as they were. I never did find a OEM brake set up that fit but I made my own with lots of Frankenstein pieces of line and fittings. Buyers beware of the online pictures of RX7 brake kits that aren't what they say they are. I returned three different sets to three different suppliers. My set up is using Tilton master cylinders with the Tilton racing pedals. The front 300ZX brakes have their own master cylinder and the rear RX7 brakes have the other. I have also made the 240SX throttle cable work with the Tilton set up. I had to get a little creative to get the cable to pull in the correct position but a trip to ACE Hardware saved the day.
Its not pretty to the naked eye but to me it's a thing of beauty. I forgot to take Pictures but I will tomorrow.

I have the GoldHawg air conditioning bracket installed and it was easy. He saved me untold dollars with his design. This is top quality stuff. Check out his thread. AC for SR20DE swap. Thanks Jeff

I’m having problems with my clutch release arm/bearing not moving in enough to engage the clutch. Everything seems to be set up correctly. We have taken off the bell housing several times. With the housing off the arm works fine but with it on it does not want to engage/move enough forward. Anyone ever have this issue?

The clutch slave cylinder is hydraulically actuated-- you can't move it by hand when it is pressed against the fingers of the pressure plate.

spriso wrote: Fri Dec 21, 2018 11:05 pm The clutch slave cylinder is hydraulically actuated-- you can't move it by hand when it is pressed against the fingers of the pressure plate.

Problem solved, I have a working clutch! It's a Christmas miracle I tell you. I had two issues.
1. Somehow the spring holding the clutch release arm fell off during the years of storage. Not sure how that could have happened unless it was banged hard or someone opened up the bellhousing at some point and never installed it correctly. I did not know how to install it correctly either. Once the bearing is placed over the shaft and the release arm is in the slot, the bearing must be pushed in all the way. With hand pressure on the bearing you can see the proper mechanical reach of the bearing. Then while the bellhousing is being placed into position someone needs to hold the release arm centered in the slot, otherwise you can have fitment problems.
2. My new Nismo slave cylinder was stuck in the open position, so it would not push on the release arm far enough under pressure. I had to take it apart and rebuild it.
Thank you Michael for walking me off the cliff (maybe a bit dramatic) with the tips on getting the release arm/bearing properly fitted.
Even though I had to lift the body off the car again, which meant that the brakes and the wiring harness and the fuel line and the body spacers had to be removed, I learned a little more about the car.
Let this be a lesson to all that are just starting out on their swap. Check your clutch before you put on the body because you can't drop the tranny with the Datsun X frame. I imagine that you could pull the engine out of the body but my engine bay is already painted candy and I did not want to scratch it all up.