Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Have you seen the dry ice trick ? People put dry ice of tge surface and freeze the under coat so it becomes brittle and it can be hit with a Dead blow hammer to crack it off. No times and flame to worry about.

Just a thought

Wow. The floorpan is in great shape! Awesome!!

If you want to add inner fender liners, let me know. I have a bolt-on or weld-on solution designed and can share pics. I can't imagine finishing my project only to have a rock fly from my tire into the underside of my freshly painted fender. Not gonna happen!

Wow ! That would be great. Are they hard to fabricate?
Please send me the information to consider if I have tge skill set to generate the .
Are they metal or formed materials??

Thanks

ADR wrote: Tue Sep 24, 2024 6:54 am Wow. The floorpan is in great shape! Awesome!!

If you want to add inner fender liners, let me know. I have a bolt-on or weld-on solution designed and can share pics. I can't imagine finishing my project only to have a rock fly from my tire into the underside of my freshly painted fender. Not gonna happen!

The car was a roller from the CA desert so I am blessed with a solid start (minus the hacked out piece of the drivers inner floor pan near tranny when someone was attempting to put a 302 ford in it!).
I'd be interested in seeing the design, but I'm doubtful I'll need it.

There was a member on the forum that bought a 302 Fairlady. Used to be a YouTube video of him doing a burn out. . He Bought it as a completed project sans the frustration

Long weekend in the shop, most of Saturday and this afternoon. I spent most of my time filling in firewall holes (almost all done) that either shouldn't have been there or I won't use w/SR20 restomod. I also cut out the tunnel portion for the shifter to be in the right spot and welded the replacement part in place. I have a fantastic young man that I hire to help me, and he just about finished the undercoating removal. Unfortunately when rotating the car on the rotisserie, I failed to remember that we had a heavy copper tube in the trunk that decided to fall to the other fender and give me two nice dents outward that I'll have to fix and shrink.

Looks great!! You are getting there!

Did you make or buy a rotisserie for these resto?

Bought the rotisserie several years ago. Takes more space than I like even broken down; I'll probably sell it after this build.

Another good day yesterday. I got the frame disassembled and I finished welding up the roll bar mounts to the frame. I had only tacked them in place with the body on. Tim (my helper) finished sanding off the tub, as well as most of the undercoating on the front part of the body. I think we can get to Raptor undercoating next week. I'll get the frame off this week for powdercoating, as well as the roll bar. And I'm thinking about having them powdercoat the flat dash with a wrinkle midnight blue (or maybe spider blue) prismatic wrinkle color. I'd like to tie in to the interior colors, which will have two tone seats. I'm going with ultra leather Silver Pearl (which has a sort of blue hue) for the seating area, which goes well with the console, back of seats and package tray area which has a greyish blue color (Riviera). More on interior later as it comes to pass. Good news on the body tub is that there was no rust in the rear fenders, even down at the bottom. Bad news is that the rear panel which has the license plate is wavy--not sure how much bodywork needed to minimize the filler required.

LOOKS Fantastic ! A bit naked w/o paint...:-0 It's going to be a Jewel once completed..

More progress this afternoon. My friend from church who has been a body man for 40 years came to rescue my two dents from the copper bar falling in the trunk when I rotated the car on the rotisserie. He took the oxy acetylene and got the dent red hot (one time only, otherwise make the metal brittle) and then hammered it in. After the initial heat he hammered and dollied, carefully feeling the surface to get it smooth, finishing it off with a DA sander. Not perfect, but he says we'll need less than an 1/8" filler on that panel. We also applied 3M heavy bonded epoxy seam sealer to every weld in the car. It is sandable once hardened. This will ensure any pinhole cracks I couldn't see were filled. Finally, I attached the LED 3rd brake light to the top of the roll bar. I had to make several holes to get the wiring in before I take it and the frame to be powder coated satin black.

Was the copper bar something you were using to dissipate heat from welding?
I saw a guy doing welding Lego used a magnetic thick copper strip to dissipate on the backside of his welding area.

True artistry

Was the copper bar something you were using to dissipate heat from welding?
I saw a guy doing welding Lego used a magnetic thick copper strip to dissipate on the backside of his welding area.

True artistry
Send your neighbor my way..lol

Yes, my helper was on the trunk side pushing the copper tube into the welded area on the backside to draw out the heat to prevent warping and blow through.

How did that work out for you ?? I’ve seen that technique and the cooling off with an air hose immediately after the metal is hot is to reduce warping .