Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

The restoation shop has a few Datsun Z's in right now, an old porsche and an old VW beetle. I haven't seen any British cars in the shop yet. I don't really trust the repair manuals and I think the majority of them written and organized for people working out of their home garage with limited equiptment.

I left a message with the shop to see if they have the engine block number on hand and they'll call me back shortly.

The shop is run by someone who has been doing this professionally for over 20 years. They are not a car garage where you take your car for an oil change. They do restoration and custom sunroofs.

Unfortunately, my father took the car to a person who didn't know what they were doing. The invoice lists all the parts that were replaced; new hoses, fuel lines, fluids, brake hose, radiator hose and master cylinder (part number 46010-A7800).

Maybe I should do one of the CarFax reports to look into the history of the car?

I believe the transmission is a 4-Speed

I beleive you have a 1600 engine with a 4 speed transmission, the only thing depicting a 2000 is the Grill you have!!

It just scares me when a mechanic says hey you got a 2000 and the engine is a 1600, He might be looking at something other then me.

The mechanic may be right if you have an H20 engine, very simply an R16 engine # starts R****** while an H20 starts H******. Some people have swaped in the H20 engines which are nissan forklift motors, because they were less expensive than the 1600's and were basically built from the same Block but with the added displacement because of a longer stroke.

Keep us informed!

Lou Smaldino
66-1600
67-2000

New word from the shop. The engine block # is R58623, which indicated a 1600, but the casting #'s on the crank are indicating a 2000. The 'engine guy' is coming by the shop later today to look at it and clear up the confusion.

OK, now we are getting somewhere!!!

You may or may not have a Strocker motor, Steve Allen has done extensive research on Stroker's and you can get som info here:

http://www.311s.org/tech/engine/stroker.html

Basically a Stroker engine takes the R16 engine and uses 2 liter components from the Crank, Rods & Pistons to boost up the displacement.

Read the article, or go to the tab under stroker information.

Good Luck!!

Lou Smaldino
66-1600
67-2000

DELETED

I've got my 1600 torn down for a stroker project and the pistons and rods in your photos sure look like R motor 1600 stuff. If you look at the pistons pics you can see that the skirts extend far beyond the piston pin boss's, and indication that they are for the shorter stroke 1600. The 2L pistons skirts are cut away to clear the fully counterweighted/longer stroked crank. I say you have a R16. Be interested to see what they say.

scott

I'll check out the stroker motor info and keep everyone posted.

I just got back from a quick meeting with the person working on my car. Finding parts for the car was a much bigger hassle than he ever expected, but there has been lots of progress.

The engine is about to be pieced back together once he gets a rear main seal and a gasket. He was showing me all kinds of small parts that I can't name that have been resurfaced and cleaned up. Best of all, he hasn't had to resort to buying expensive new or used datsun parts. It takes much longer to source the parts, but the whole project is costing much less.

Once the engine is in one piece we're going to discuss the next step. While the engine is out there are other things he can do - it'll raise the cost of the project now, but save money later.

Here are some ideas...

1) Examine if you would "need" or "want" a new clutch disc and throw-out bearing.

2) Examine if you would "needd" or "want" new motor and tranny mounts. The left-side motor mount wears out the most because of its locality to the exhaust manifold. They only ones I have seen have been made of rubber.

3) Option to replace old, worn or rusted studs, nuts, washers and bolts with stainless steel.

4) Decide if you want to option for the stainless steel brake lines and tubes.

5) Decide if it is worth it to you upgrade to one of Gary Boone's EI dizzies. You can always do this later.

6) Get a racing cam. Can always be done later.

7) Take your alternator and starter to get checked to see if they still function.

8 ) Shim the Oil Pump to increase the oil pressure. Course this may (just may) expose oil leaks. Have not done it myself. It can be done later but may require a new oil pan gasket and oil pump gasket.

9) Research and see if you can locate a rear main seal made neoprene rather than good old hemp. The Forum will love you for that.

10) Polish the intake and head for smoother air flow. Not recommended to do after the head has been attached to the block.

I out of inspiration now....

Thanks for that info. I'll fax that over now. Small things such as stainless steel nuts and bolts will make it easier to work on the car later and I would definitely opt for those.

As for the rear main seal, it was described to me as 'rope'... sounds like it would be hemp, but then again I have no idea what neoprene is. I'll see what I can do though.

Neoprene is that synthetic material that is used for many purposes like diving suits made by Body Glove.

Ever been on a big amusment water slide? That big pad your riding on is made of neoprene too.